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Danelectro Owners Club

I have an early Longhorn , and recent short scale DC. They sound quite different. My Longhorn still has the factory strings , they’re about as dead as can be , and it’s got a gorgeous deep woody old school thump. The DC is much thinner sounding . Pickups and pots might have something to do with that too
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So, enlighten me on the 59DC bass. The long scale one.

I had a U2 guitar from the first batch of reissues, really liked it. I’ve always wanted a Longhorn bass, missed the opportunity to pick up one a while back. So I’ve kinda been thinking about them lately and stumbled on a few videos for the DC that seemed interesting.

From what it looks like, older ones have an unpainted headstock, wood bridge saddle and no 3-way switch. The newer ones seem to have adjustable bridges, matching headstocks and a pickup selector switch. That correct? Opinions or advantages of one vs the other?

As for strings, can these handle any normal strings, with the small tuners, or are my string choices limited? I was thinking flats or maybe tapewounds would be fun.

Thanks!
I purchased a long scale 59DC and a short scale 59DC in the last year, and I really wanted to love the gorgeous black and white long scale. In my experience, something was off...it didn't sound nearly as good as the short scale I purchased at the same time, and I couldn't get comfortable playing it. I've played all kinds of bass guitars over the years, and I found the long scale 59DC to be one of my least favorites.
Both basses gave me issues with the tuning machines, and I had to replace them. I couldn't use my usual favorite TI flats on either, so had to go with D'Addario Chrome flats...which worked out fine.
Long story short...not a fan of the long scale 59DC at all...your mileage may vary
 
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Well... I've done some searches and I can't find one... so let's start one.

Got a Dano? Join up!

Club rules... #1) you must own (and enjoy playing) a Danelectro bass. Dano clones are also accepted. #2) have fun!

Here's mine... a late 90s Danelectro Rumor.

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Why do Dano haters bother coming here?
Here's mine
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I’ve got 3 longhorns and 4 DC’s, all first reissue MIK. Completely stock. They hold tuning, they intonate, and the bowed bridges don’t present any problems. I have modern basses too - 5 string, 6 string, neck-through, active… But I’d rather play the Dano’s. View attachment 4806035
Oooh, I like that Green Burst!
 
Wanted one for a long time. Got this a couple of weeks ago. Thought I'd try a couple cosmetic enhancements. I put some vinyl pin striping on the edge of the pickguard. Not sure if Im gonna keep it on there, but it looks kinda cool.. The thing I don't like, that I wanted to change is the shiny black plastic truss rod cover. I kinda think it looks out of place with the copper burst finish. So I had some wood grain colored shelf liner and wrapped the truss cover in it. I think it looks a lot better.
I frickin love this bass!

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Is there a way to lower the bridge on a dolphin? This is the one with the rosewood saddle. The front of the bridge is up an 1/8” or so. But looks like the nut under the bridge holding the saddle keeps the screws from going down further.

Instead of lowering the bridge further to lower the action on my Danelectro early '60s Silvertone Model 1444 without microtilt I installed a full pocket shim in the neck pocket. It works great.
 
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Instead of lowering the bridge further to lower the action on my Danelectro early '60s Silvertone Model 1444 without microtilt I installed a full pocket shim in the neck pocket. It works great.
Good idea. The question then becomes how thick since it’s full pocket. I’d like to bring the strings at the last frets down about an 1/8”. I’ve used partial shims where a business card makes a large difference.
 
Good idea. The question then becomes how thick since it’s full pocket. I’d like to bring the strings at the last frets down about an 1/8”. I’ve used partial shims where a business card makes a large difference.

I forgot to say I used a flat (no angle) shim since I didn't want to change the neck angle because it was easier and I didn't want to change the setup much. Turned out I didn't have to change the setup at all.
 
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Hi guys,

I have a 2016 DC 59 Long Scale (MI Korea w/ the toggle selector), wonderful bass. I put some D'addario Chromes and it sounds great.
I have only one issue. The Pups, after being set according to factory specs (height), are not balanced. The neck is really louder than the bridge. Not a big issue for me since I usually play with both Pups engaged but I wonder whether it happens also to your basses. Many thanks,
Paolo
 
Hi guys,

I have a 2016 DC 59 Long Scale (MI Korea w/ the toggle selector), wonderful bass. I put some D'addario Chromes and it sounds great.
I have only one issue. The Pups, after being set according to factory specs (height), are not balanced. The neck is really louder than the bridge. Not a big issue for me since I usually play with both Pups engaged but I wonder whether it happens also to your basses. Many thanks,
Paolo

Lower the bridge pickup, and/or raise the beck pickup as high as possible.

Or reverse the pickups. You might be able to do that without de-soldering anything.
 
Hi guys,

I have a 2016 DC 59 Long Scale (MI Korea w/ the toggle selector), wonderful bass. I put some D'addario Chromes and it sounds great.
I have only one issue. The Pups, after being set according to factory specs (height), are not balanced. The neck is really louder than the bridge. Not a big issue for me since I usually play with both Pups engaged but I wonder whether it happens also to your basses. Many thanks,
Paolo
Same issue with my '98 original reissue Korean Longhorn. I pretty much run everything wide open anyway so never really bothered me that much. But yeah for whatever reason the bridge pup isn't as loud/strong as the neck pup.
 
Hi everyone, here's my 90's MIK reissue Longhorn, in "Beatnik Burgundy"! And my old blue one I prematurely sold and regret letting go of.

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Several months back I made an NBD thread about it with an attempt at sound demos uploaded to soundcloud. As of now the only things done to it are the strings changed from unknown rounds to GHS brite flats, which actually fit through the holes! And of course, gluing the top strap button.
It's definitely a cool bass to play and in my case "rediscover", after having it in its gig bag for a while now! It really fits the niche of a short scale with flats quite nicely I might add
 
Bridge idea: I purchased a Longhorn and Shorthorn bass this year (both new). I was wondering why the Longhorn was getting more play time at practices and gigs. The reason was that the LH has such round, warm tone and there's a bit of a slight, but unwanted, treble edge on the tone from the SH. It was suggested on a Youtube video that the tone difference was the metal saddles on the 'new, improved' bridge. My LH has the rosewood stick.
I decided to experiment and removed the SH's 4 saddles and inserted a wood substitute. I don't have rosewood laying around so I used some of my wife's crafting supplies. In the photo you'll see two small pieces of wood that approximate the thickness of the rosewood type bridge stick. My wood is a shade longer when placed end to end. There's no small screw from the other side of the bridge. String tension is holding the wood in place. I figure that if Hofner can float the entire bridge of a Beatle bass, then I can do the same with my 'popsicle stick'.
The result - Wow! that edge is gone from the tone and I like the results of all the neck and bridge tone control settings too. The SH now has that lovely tone that I like from the LH. If I opt to have a bright, articulate tone, it can still be dialled in.
One day I may shorten the pieces (made for picture frame corner supports) and perhaps put stain or something on them too.
I checked intonation and it's dead on perfect. Happy Days!

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