I had one. Sounded good. But the bridge assembly collapsed. I sold it to a friend who thought he could fix it.What is the consensus on the long scale Danelectro basses?
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I had one. Sounded good. But the bridge assembly collapsed. I sold it to a friend who thought he could fix it.What is the consensus on the long scale Danelectro basses?
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I know Danelectro used 100k Volume/1meg Tone pots…
With that being said should I use one 100k V and one 1meg T and wiring it up like a Pbass?
would that give me the desired results I’m looking for?
P-bass is technically a humbucker.
I treat lipsticks like any other single-coil pickup and follow Stratocaster specs - 250K pot & 047uF caps (.022uF for humbuckers). I wired a Dano 2 x lipstick guitar like this and sounds great.
You can try a 1meg tone pot but be prepared to change it if you don't like the way it sounds.i have a 250k pot I could use for the volume and a 1meg for the tone.
how do I wire two pickups to one volume pot in series?
i have a 250k pot I could use for the volume and a 1meg for the tone.
how do I wire two pickups to one volume pot in series?
Will you want a pickup selector switch (neck/series/bridge)?
Question on the pickups on an early reissue 59DC longscale. I am used to humbuckers where the neck pickup has more bass than the bridge. Turn up the tone and both get brighter, almost with a twang. Now on my DC, it's opposite. The neck pickup has a real twang even if the tone is set to zero. If I want more of a bassy sound, I have to use the bridge pickup with tone at zero.
Is this normal or do I have an issue with the neck pickup?
Where are all these cool colors coming from? My only choice was black or the copper burst that I picked.I love the copper burst but it's probably the most common along with black.Hi everyone, here's my 90's MIK reissue Longhorn, in "Beatnik Burgundy"! And my old blue one I prematurely sold and regret letting go of.
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Several months back I made an NBD thread about it with an attempt at sound demos uploaded to soundcloud. As of now the only things done to it are the strings changed from unknown rounds to GHS brite flats, which actually fit through the holes! And of course, gluing the top strap button.
It's definitely a cool bass to play and in my case "rediscover", after having it in its gig bag for a while now! It really fits the niche of a short scale with flats quite nicely I might add
Where are all these cool colors coming from? My only choice was black or the copper burst that I picked.I love the copper burst but it's probably the most common along with black.
Thanks , AndyBridge idea: I purchased a Longhorn and Shorthorn bass this year (both new). I was wondering why the Longhorn was getting more play time at practices and gigs. The reason was that the LH has such round, warm tone and there's a bit of a slight, but unwanted, treble edge on the tone from the SH. It was suggested on a Youtube video that the tone difference was the metal saddles on the 'new, improved' bridge. My LH has the rosewood stick.
I decided to experiment and removed the SH's 4 saddles and inserted a wood substitute. I don't have rosewood laying around so I used some of my wife's crafting supplies. In the photo you'll see two small pieces of wood that approximate the thickness of the rosewood type bridge stick. My wood is a shade longer when placed end to end. There's no small screw from the other side of the bridge. String tension is holding the wood in place. I figure that if Hofner can float the entire bridge of a Beatle bass, then I can do the same with my 'popsicle stick'.
The result - Wow! that edge is gone from the tone and I like the results of all the neck and bridge tone control settings too. The SH now has that lovely tone that I like from the LH. If I opt to have a bright, articulate tone, it can still be dialled in.
One day I may shorten the pieces (made for picture frame corner supports) and perhaps put stain or something on them too.
I checked intonation and it's dead on perfect. Happy Days!
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