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de afwerking mk3-6 - A build diary.

#121
blablas said:
Carefully...... :D


Carefully...... the complete answer: The outer diameter is bigger than I want them to be while drilling and tapping the hole that will hold them on my "special tool" (just a piece of brass rod on which I cut a tread on which the knob can be screwed).
Once they can be placed on this tool the outside can be machined to the proper diameter and finished of.
For the machining that follows now (drilling the hole for the pot shaft and making the chamber for the pot nut) you don't need that much clamping force, you can clamp the knob very lightly in the jaws, or even put a piece of paper around the knob before clamping.

I'm using a advanced metal machining lathe for making these knobs by the way (at work).
Click to expand...

Thanks.
 
#122
MhvRvLX.jpg

Wiring is done, everything works the way I want it to.
 
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#128
And a few more photo's.
RJKmL28.jpg

dTS9b92.jpg

YvAHZk5.jpg


Thanks to everybody for their responses. :cool:

Now I need to clean up the mess on my workbench and take a couple of weeks rest from building, then I need to order some parts for my next build and slowly start working on that one again.


This will be the next build:
A four string fanned 34 to 32 inch scale SG based bass.
K9F4m4T.jpg



0YdHfEO.jpg


Would anybody like to see a build diary on that one as well?
 
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#130
blablas said:
And a few more photo's.
DSC_6690.jpg


DSC_6685.jpg


DSC_6664.jpg


Thanks to everybody for their responses. :cool:

Now I need to clean up the mess on my workbench and take a couple of weeks rest from building, then I need to order some parts for my next build and slowly start working on that one again.


This will be the next build:
A four string fanned 34 to 32 inch scale SG based bass.
P1010138.jpg



mk5-4.jpg


Would anybody like to see a build diary on that one as well?
Click to expand...
Unless your client normally focuses on chording in the upper octave, and rarely plays bass lines, I would strongly suggest that you change the fan plan. As it is currently, with that degree of multiscale and with the perpendicular fret at the 19th position, the first few frets are angled so much that playing will be difficult at the bottom end. The nut looks to be at about 45 degrees, which can result in your index finger actually having to pass over the nut in order to play a low F - extremely uncomfortable, and probably intuitively wrong in the brain. It would be more comfortable to play with the perp fret somewhere from the seventh to the twelfth fret zone.



BTW, beautiful work on the current build!
 
#131
I am the client. :D

I have build fanned-fret basses before, this one is still in the planning stages and at the moment I'm not sure yet exactly where I want to go with the fanning, the reason behind choosing for the straight fret higher up on the neck is that I would like to have the bridge at a straighter angle but still have a scale difference that makes the fanning useful.

I'm still working on the fingerboard layout, the printout was only done to see how the dimensions of the neck would look on the body and if the pickups I want to use will fit within this layout.
 
#132
I understand your idea as far as the bridge angle. For me, the only downside I have found with multiscale is that it's harder to do the playing down by the bridge like Jaco thing.

My nut is at about 30 degrees, which is as far as I'd want to take it, for myself.
 
#138
blablas said:
@ pilotjones

scale.jpg

Done some FretFind/CAD work to see how much difference half an inch in length makes, I'm going for the 32.5 to 34 inch scale. :)
Click to expand...
That looks a lot more playable. The angle of the nut is ok, and it looks like you managed to keep your bridge angle pretty close to the way it was.

If you want to test it, print it out full size and mount out on some scrap wood.
 

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