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de afwerking mk4-4++ - blablas has that building itch again

Good point with the reference to rosewood fretboards... And a large front/back like in this case has a big gluing surface with no stress on it, so it should be even less of a problem. Woods like cocobolo, pau ferro and a few others should be worse to glue than actual rosewood as you use here. All seems good (and I guess I can use titebond for the front/back on my up coming project as well, these epoxies for oily woods are expensive).
 
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Need I say more! ;)
 
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Matt black will be great..!

Tough call on the finishes... Personally I would be worried that the rosewood would be too dark with an oil finish, but oil finishes are really nice..! The shellac is intrguing for sure, and it does not color the wood as much as oil finishes. It could be interesting to try it out, and you got several color options to choose from, some are very dark, some are almost clear in color.
 
And some daylight pictures.
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There are a few funny marks in the plywood, they are really in the wood, you can see them but you don't feel them.
It's a pity but I'm not going to do anything about them.

The belly cut.
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I need the refine the transition to the upper horn a little bit but that's something I'll do once I'm going to sand the complete body.
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Thanks. Those imperfections a part of the charm and I have seen worse imperfections coming out of seemingly solid blocks of wood.

For the neck I'll be using two strips of this plywood as well.
I'm going to use padauk for the center and fingerboard, two strips of this 4 mm birch plywood and the two outer sides will be wenge, for the headstock I'm going to use merbau with a thin rosewood top (the same as used for the body top).
 
I really like the ease of use of Danish Oil, what I've read about shellac is that it's rather time consuming to apply (lots of layers), but I'm going to order some shellac and give it a try on some leftovers.

Danish oil is easily my favorite finish. I've used it for 8 years and even though I've tried some other finishes, I always go back to Watco Danish oil. It's super easy to use and super easy to repair. I usually do a lot of coats over the course of a few weeks, and wet sand and steel wool when appropriate. With enough, you get a gorgeous glassy look.
 

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No real progress to report on this build, a few weeks ago my server computer crashed on me and since that time I've been busy with tuning and filling a new main computer, and after that setting up my old main computer as the new server computer.
Everything is working as I want now and no data was lost during this accident, the build will resume soon.

Last week I've been busy with fabricating some new pickguards for several of my basses.
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For my F(ake)ender Jazz V.

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For my OLP MM2.

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And one for my Squier Precision.

A detail shot of the last one.
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