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Dear god please help Peavey VB-2

I just bought a Peavey VB-2 head a few weeks ago on craigs list. It's the first tube head I've ever owned. I was setting up for a gig a few hours ago. I let it warm up a few minutes and ran my tuner out for the first time into my little pocket korg tuner. After switching the tuning mute off I came upon the problem. Although my amp sent the signal from bass to tuner It would not pump anything into my cab. I tried 3 speaker cables, 3 instrument cables, 2 cabs, 2 basses, a new outlet... everything.

The tubes light up fine. I've played through the amp a few times before today and it played like a dream but now its simply dead.

At my last band practice I ran my head through 2 8 ohm cabs on the 8 ohm setting which I just read was incorrect... but the general contention of everyone I've talked to seems to think this would have effected the cab's rather than the head which are both fine. could this be the reason for my problem? if so can I get any more info on what I need or how to fix it?

I'm very grateful for info you might have
thanks in advance
 
well, running the cabs that way isn't good for the amp, the cabs are the least of your worries. you might have blown a power tube, and the preamp tubes are fine, which is why the tuner out worked. The bad tube is effecting your signal and therefor your speakers aren't getting jack.

I base this off my guitarist's all tube amp going down in a similar way, he was running a 8ohm extension cab at 16 ohms... though ohmage went the other way :P

bring it to a tech, hopefully only a fix of a new tube or two and a quick rebias.
 
it almost sounds like a bad mute switch to me. if it is, try toggling it on and off a bunch of times (unless its an electronic switch as opposed to a mechanical one).

+1
I think joink's got a very good point and I'd at least try a blast of Caigs D5 contact cleaner sprayed into that switch. With most toggle/rocker/push button switches you can spray a quick blast right in between the switches small gap between the knob and mounting surface and then operate the switch serveral times to hopefully clear the stuck contacts. (amp unplugged)

You could also try contacting Peavey. This may be a fairly common situation they could help you out with: Invalid Link Removed
 
I'm really surprised by all the problems I see people have with these. I had the intention of getting a GK 1001RB, but saw the VB-2 with a $550 price tag and couldnt resist. (this was even a floor model!) I've had mine for 5 months now and havent encountered a single problem. Maybe i'm just lucky.
 
I just bought a Peavey VB-2 head a few weeks ago on craigs list. It's the first tube head I've ever owned. I was setting up for a gig a few hours ago. I let it warm up a few minutes and ran my tuner out for the first time into my little pocket korg tuner. After switching the tuning mute off I came upon the problem. Although my amp sent the signal from bass to tuner It would not pump anything into my cab. I tried 3 speaker cables, 3 instrument cables, 2 cabs, 2 basses, a new outlet... everything.

The tubes light up fine. I've played through the amp a few times before today and it played like a dream but now its simply dead.

At my last band practice I ran my head through 2 8 ohm cabs on the 8 ohm setting which I just read was incorrect... but the general contention of everyone I've talked to seems to think this would have effected the cab's rather than the head which are both fine. could this be the reason for my problem? if so can I get any more info on what I need or how to fix it?

I'm very grateful for info you might have
thanks in advance


I played (or tried to) a VB2 at guitar center tht had this exact same problem. It turned on, looked fine, would send a tuner out, but would not send any signal to cabs it was attached to. Sounds like it might be a semi-common thing. No idea what it is.
 
I'm really surprised by all the problems I see people have with these. I had the intention of getting a GK 1001RB, but saw the VB-2 with a $550 price tag and couldnt resist. (this was even a floor model!) I've had mine for 5 months now and havent encountered a single problem. Maybe i'm just lucky.
Mine was only $350 second hand.. and despite this problem I absolutely can't wait to get it running I'd pick it over my friends old svt-4 for my taste.
 
It sounds like you may have a bad output tube that took out an internal fuse. It's designed to keep the power tubes off so that you don't cause any more damage by keeping it on. You can take it to a tech or send it back to Peavey for repair.

If you need any more help with it, send me a PM.
 
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I'm really surprised by all the problems I see people have with these. I had the intention of getting a GK 1001RB, but saw the VB-2 with a $550 price tag and couldnt resist. (this was even a floor model!) I've had mine for 5 months now and havent encountered a single problem. Maybe i'm just lucky.

Same for me. I got mine last December and have had zero problems -so far. Used it last Sat. night with my NV610 and it just roared. I do bring my Markbass 12' combo along as a back up just in case- and that's because of all these stories I've read on TB. My Marshall Major used to spit out fuses all the time, so far the VB2's been much more reliable than it was.
 
Paper-
Check all your fuses. I've had several Peavey amps that had fuses wired into the board. Everything lit up, but there was a blown fuse preventing the power from getting to the cab. Cost me $65 bench charge when I took it to a shop. $65 for a $1 fuse.
So anytime something blew a fuse, a considerable amount of time was necessary to take it apart and change it. I always thought it was pretty poor design; shouldn't need a tech or an hour to change a fuse.
 
So anytime something blew a fuse, a considerable amount of time was necessary to take it apart and change it. I always thought it was pretty poor design; shouldn't need a tech or an hour to change a fuse.

Here's why we do it:

1. Internal fuses are not meant to be just replaced. When those go, it usually means something is wrong. A lot of people will replace a fuse over and over and then wrap foil around because it's blowing never thinking that there may actually be a reason why it's blowing. This usually makes a minor problem huge.

2. We've had a lot of fuse clip failures over the years. There are less problems with solder in fuses.

3. Some fuses are solder-in to pass newer safety regulations.
 
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When an output tube goes bad it can short or run away and draw as much current as it can. There are two ways to counteract this. Some manufacturers wire low wattage flame proof resistors into the cathode circuit of each tube. These blow when a tube goes bad. The amp then has to have the blown resistor replaced at the same time as the Bad tube is replaced. Others use fuses for the same reason. These, like the resistor approach, have to be replaced too. I prefer the fuse however, as Bbbybld states, the fuses can and will be defeated by users ignorant of the ramifications of doing so. I too have seen the cigarette foil wrapped fuses, 25A fuse instead of 3A and even a nail. Doing this can lead to a blown OPT and, in the case of the nail, a blown choke and fatally damaged power transformer. The 50 cent fuse became a $300 rebuild. What Peavey has done is so much better than a destroyed amplifier.

Paul
 
I have to agree. I purchased one of the GC blowout VB-2s which was cursed with a bad fuse. If I have my facts straight, I remember reading that there was a run of them with a sub standard environmentally compliant fuse. Since I got it back from Peavey repair, which was in late January. I've been in tone heaven. It's very powerful with the cabs I have. It kicks truckloads of butt live. I'm also going to be recording with it soon. Having a tube pre + tube DI (in standby mode) going to the board plus miking a cab with this head going full bore sounds like an absolute dream.

To the OP. Send your VB-2 to Peavey A.S.A.P. Their service is top notch and the turnaround time is very good considering the size of the company. I think some folks gave up on this head too soon because of the fuse issue. I personally consider it one of the best heads I've ever played and totally worth the slight delay in enjoying it while it was getting repaired. Just watch your impedance (ohms) and make sure your speakers are connected prior to turning it on and you'll be enjoying it for a long time.
 
Here's why we do it:

1. Internal fuses are not meant to be just replaced. When those go, it usually means something is wrong. A lot of people will replace a fuse over and over and then wrap foil around because it's blowing never thinking that there may actually be a reason why it's blowing. This usually makes a minor problem huge.

2. We've had a lot of fuse clip failures over the years. There are less problems with solder in fuses.

3. Some fuses are solder-in to pass newer safety regulations.

+1 Hey these guys are EXPERTS, if they do something you and don't understand why, find out why before you start trying to jury-rig it yourself... An amp blowing up because of an improper fuse could not only decommission the amp, it could burn your house or club down with everyone in it...
 
I have to agree. I purchased one of the GC blowout VB-2s which was cursed with a bad fuse. If I have my facts straight, I remember reading that there was a run of them with a sub standard environmentally compliant fuse. Since I got it back from Peavey repair, which was in late January. I've been in tone heaven. It's very powerful with the cabs I have. It kicks truckloads of butt live. I'm also going to be recording with it soon. Having a tube pre + tube DI (in standby mode) going to the board plus miking a cab with this head going full bore sounds like an absolute dream.

To the OP. Send your VB-2 to Peavey A.S.A.P. Their service is top notch and the turnaround time is very good considering the size of the company. I think some folks gave up on this head too soon because of the fuse issue. I personally consider it one of the best heads I've ever played and totally worth the slight delay in enjoying it while it was getting repaired. Just watch your impedance (ohms) and make sure your speakers are connected prior to turning it on and you'll be enjoying it for a long time.
I also got mine from the same GC deal. I am running it through a new Berg NV412, only having it a few weeks I finally got to use it live and it was amazing. I can say after alot of time and a little money trying I have FINALLY found the sound I have been looking for. Now all I need is one more and another NV412:hyper: