Did I make a bad choice?

[MattZilla]

Here are the actual tension figures:

G 055 - 68.8
D 070 - 62.2
A 090 - 56.9
E 105 - 41.2

(Total 229.1 lbs.)

What I don't like about this particular set is how uneven they are across four strings, not to mention the G and D are pretty tense at over 60 lbs.

I like that as it makes each string have a slightly more distinct voice so that that B on the G string is a lot more complex in the upper mids and a bit bottom-light while that same B played on the A string is rather simple yet very heavy bottomed.

That effect seems to be diminished on even tension sets. Not gone, but less obvious.

 

[macmanlou]

So, I am assuming that after I slap these puppies on, a major trussrod adjustment is in order... no?

Tune your bass and check the neck relief before removing your current strings, then recheck after you've installed and tuned up the new ones.

You'll probably have to make some adjustments, but don't move the truss rod more than 1/8 turn at a time (after you've slackened the strings), retuning and checking relief each time. IME, only a small truss rod adjustment will bring neck relief back to where it should be. If you set the relief to what it was previously, the action should be pretty darn close to what it had been before as well. Intonation OTOH almost always changes with different string choices. And don't forget to set string witness points at the nut and the bridge saddles.

 

[Kipp Harrington]

Tune your bass and check the neck relief before removing your current strings, then recheck after you've installed and tuned up the new ones.

You'll probably have to make some adjustments, but don't move the truss rod more than 1/8 turn at a time (after you've slackened the strings), retuning and checking relief each time. IME, only a small truss rod adjustment will bring neck relief back to where it should be. If you set the relief to what it was previously, the action should be pretty darn close to what it had been before as well. Intonation OTOH almost always changes with different string choices. And don't forget to set string witness points at the nut and the bridge saddles.

Thanks for the info!

 

[laklandplayer]

Even though bass players are expected to play like machines, we aren't one.

Years of experience tells me that if you play a lot, you need to find a gauge and tension that doesn't cause pain or injury to your hands. If you've ever woken up the next day from playing and your hands hurt, are sore or swollen, you are doing it entirely wrong. You can do permanent damage to your hands and fingers, create carpal tunnel syndrome in your wrist, get tendonitis or bursitis in your arms and hands and, set yourself up for arthritis later in life.

I went through some of this stuff in my late 20's and figured out (with the help of an orthopedic doctor who happened to be a bass player too) how to deal with it. I had to change the way I played entirely or physical problems would have eventually ended it for me.

For a number of years I've use very light gauge strings (35-50-70-90-125) and Labella 760XL (39-56-77-96) flats. I play with a light touch and let the amp do the work, I can dig in and get all of the power that I need with no problem whatsoever. Also, I find that the lighter gauges and tension make the bass sustain longer, my playing more nuanced, and I have more control over the instrument.

I am a big fan of balanced tension strings for a number of reasons too - they feel great and stabilize your technique as you aren't physically compensating for different tensions all of the time while playing.
They are better for the neck of the bass itself as the tension is even across the entire neck and the relief (bow) is the same on the bass and treble side of the neck making the action consistent and the bass play more accurately in tune.

The other big issue for any bass is having the correct height at the nut. For one thing, if it's too high it will make you have to work harder and will fatigue your left hand.

More importantly, the nut sets the stage for how the bass plays in tune up the entire neck and on how the overall action feels too.

Here's how check it... Press down the first fret. Generally, the nut height should be about the same distance open as the string is from the 2nd fret (while holding down the first fret). Another way to check is take a chromatic tuner, play the open sting, get it perfectly in tune, on the tuner and then play the first fret... check the intonation of that note. If it is sharp the nut is too high and needs to be lowered. A bass will intonate perfectly at the 12th fret but if the nut height is wrong, the bass will still play out of tune. Don't try and lower the nut yourself! Find a good technician, with the proper tools, that you can talk to and be present when he works on your bass. Together you can get the bass set on how you want it to feel and play. Such a small adjustment can do wonders.

 

[MotorCityMinion]

Don't try and lower the nut yourself! Find a good technician, with the proper tools, that you can talk to and be present when he works on your bass. Together you can get the bass set on how you want it to feel and play. Such a small adjustment can do wonders.

IMO, the nut files are only about $70.00 and will last your entire life. Be easy and take out as little as possible making sure to pitch the file towards the head stock. Get some feeler gauges as well to check where your at before you start, and your progress as you go along. It's not hard at all.

Bass Guitar Nut File Set, 3 double sided, w/ case | eBay

 

[bassliner50]

I'm thinking your PJ should be fine. You may need to tweek the truss rod a bit to counter the tendency of neck to bow. (this is not a big deal). For me, higher tension is always preferred to floppy low tension strings.

 

[bdplaid]

Even though bass players are expected to play like machines, we aren't one.

Years of experience tells me that if you play a lot, you need to find a gauge and tension that doesn't cause pain or injury to your hands. If you've ever woken up the next day from playing and your hands hurt, are sore or swollen, you are doing it entirely wrong. You can do permanent damage to your hands and fingers, create carpal tunnel syndrome in your wrist, get tendonitis or bursitis in your arms and hands and, set yourself up for arthritis later in life.

I went through some of this stuff in my late 20's and figured out (with the help of an orthopedic doctor who happened to be a bass player too) how to deal with it. I had to change the way I played entirely or physical problems would have eventually ended it for me.

For a number of years I've use very light gauge strings (35-50-70-90-125) and Labella 760XL (39-56-77-96) flats. I play with a light touch and let the amp do the work, I can dig in and get all of the power that I need with no problem whatsoever. Also, I find that the lighter gauges and tension make the bass sustain longer, my playing more nuanced, and I have more control over the instrument.

I am a big fan of balanced tension strings for a number of reasons too - they feel great and stabilize your technique as you aren't physically compensating for different tensions all of the time while playing.
They are better for the neck of the bass itself as the tension is even across the entire neck and the relief (bow) is the same on the bass and treble side of the neck making the action consistent and the bass play more accurately in tune.

The other big issue for any bass is having the correct height at the nut. For one thing, if it's too high it will make you have to work harder and will fatigue your left hand.

More importantly, the nut sets the stage for how the bass plays in tune up the entire neck and on how the overall action feels too.

Here's how check it... Press down the first fret. Generally, the nut height should be about the same distance open as the string is from the 2nd fret (while holding down the first fret). Another way to check is take a chromatic tuner, play the open sting, get it perfectly in tune, on the tuner and then play the first fret... check the intonation of that note. If it is sharp the nut is too high and needs to be lowered. A bass will intonate perfectly at the 12th fret but if the nut height is wrong, the bass will still play out of tune. Don't try and lower the nut yourself! Find a good technician, with the proper tools, that you can talk to and be present when he works on your bass. Together you can get the bass set on how you want it to feel and play. Such a small adjustment can do wonders.

Nut height is SO important to good playability. Glad someone mentioned it. I won't tell you how i do mine, it's on the ghetto side, but it works great.

 

[dan1952]

Not a bad choice if you don't mind turning the neck of your bass into a bow that's suitable for shooting big game...

 

[Kipp Harrington]

I'm thinking your PJ should be fine. You may need to tweek the truss rod a bit to counter the tendency of neck to bow. (this is not a big deal). For me, higher tension is always preferred to floppy low tension strings.

I hope so. I don't think the higher tension will bother me too much at all. And I agree, higher tension is way better than strings flapping around.

 

[Kipp Harrington]

Not a bad choice if you don't mind turning the neck of your bass into a bow that's suitable for shooting big game...

Bonus! I never thought of that! Time to stock up on the venison.

 

[laklandplayer]

IMO, the nut files are only about $70.00 and will last your entire life. Be easy and take out as little as possible making sure to pitch the file towards the head stock. Get some feeler gauges as well to check where your at before you start, and your progress as you go along. It's not hard at all.

View attachment 3312614 Bass Guitar Nut File Set, 3 double sided, w/ case | eBay

I've seen guys use the round wound string as a nut file, it takes more time and effort for sure.

 

[groooooove]

eh. they're just strings. not that big of a deal. try them, the cost of not liking them is not that bad.

 

[ixlramp]

Yes you did.

Here are the actual tension figures:
G 055 - 68.8
D 070 - 62.2
A 090 - 56.9
E 105 - 41.2

Wow, this is certainly the most stupidly designed set i've ever seen.
27.6lbs more tension on the G than the E, 67% higher. 30lbs is the tension of a extra-light set string.
Even if you like high tension 69lbs is stupid tight.
A large twisting force on the neck.

For me, higher tension is always preferred to floppy low tension strings.

That's all fine until one day you realise you've caused long term injury, then you'll regret it intensely.
Low tension strings don't flop if you play them correctly, the idea is to play more gently. The tone is no worse, that's a myth.
Playing hard is completely unnecessary and a bad habit.

So-called 'standard' or 'medium' bass sets are actually very tight, it's an unnecessary carry-over from the acoustic contrabass that bass guitars are an electric version of. We're conditioned into thinking it's a normal tension by the use of words in set labelling.
Bass strings actually only need 30lbs to function fine, and lower strings need more than higher strings due to higher mass and momentum, not the traditional opposite.

 

[bdplaid]

I've seen guys use the round wound string as a nut file, it takes more time and effort for sure.

I wrap 400 grit tightly around a string of the proper dimension and file away. Works fine. I also have nut files, but it seems the 400 grit leaves a smoother surface so the strings tune more easily.

 

[2saddleslab]

Correct. Always string flats through the bridge and never through the body.

Wrong, wrong, wrong, and I have over 3 decades of proof. Do you?

 

[dbsfgyd1]

Ordered some GHS Precision Flats in the regular gauge (55-105). I have been reading that some people are saying the tension is just too high. I am putting them on my Squier PJ. What are your thoughts. Playing classic rock and blues stuff, mainly. I don't know why I went with the 55 G set!

People say a lot off things, decide for yourself.

I realize these are flats, and that a lot of posters think they never have to change them (and a bolt of lightning may strike me for saying this again), but you are allowed to change your strings if they don't sound right to you. Yes, you are allowed to change flat wound strings. Ok, I said it...ZAP.....