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Different Danelectros

I am hoping someone can help me out with some info on Danelectro basses. What are some of the quality issues I need to look for on Korean and Chinese made versions?
The reason I ask is I found a used Longhorn for sale but its about a 2 1/2 hour drive for me to get it. I can pick it up for under 200.00. Sounds like it is in great shape. The color is a light blue burst. Has the taped binding and typical stacked knobs. I am thinking its Chinese manufacture but not sure. Would that be marked on the bass somewhere? Does it sound like its worth the trip, or would I be better served spending the extra bucks and getting one of the new copper burst Korean Longhorns? Don't know much about the Dano Longhorns but I am familiar with the Jerry Jones Longhorns which are fantastic basses. How do the Danos stack up to the JJ Longhorns?
 
If you can pick it up for under $200 I would suggest you hop in the car . I have the first Korean version and use it all the time . Some people say the Chinese ones are not quite as good as the Korean ones but I don't think it's a big drop in quality , the ones that I've played have felt fine .

At that price you could quickly flip it and pick up a new one if you so desire .

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scroll down and you will see the various Longhorn re-issues
 
The consensus seems to be that the earlier reissues were generally better than the later versions and that the later (korean better).

I think they are really right up there with the real deal danos. I just wish they could have done the thick binding like the 60s version, instead of the tape.
 
I think the earlier ones are more fun to play. Hard to say. Sometimes that tape on the sides (which covers the whole side) is lose. Check the action; get the shop to lower the string height before you buy to see if the bass buzzes. Check the bridge and intonation. Check for metal shards on the metal nut. The tuners on Danelctro's are notoriously lose, so that's a recurring problem. They're fun basses (and guitars), and can get range of tones, but with Danelectro you get what you pay for.
 
I think the earlier ones are more fun to play. Hard to say. Sometimes that tape on the sides (which covers the whole side) is lose. Check the action; get the shop to lower the string height before you buy to see if the bass buzzes. Check the bridge and intonation. Check for metal shards on the metal nut. The tuners on Danelctro's are notoriously lose, so that's a recurring problem. They're fun basses (and guitars), and can get range of tones, but with Danelectro you get what you pay for.

All true. Also, as there is no adjustable truss rod take a good look at the neck. It is what it is and you can't change it.
All of the other stuff can be modded/ upgraded. replace bridge, a little wood filler to tighten up tuners etc. you will not hurt the value.
 
Truth is I think the overall finish and fretwork was superior on the re-issues than was on the originals that were made in Neptune . The originals did not have an adjustable truss rod , just a steel reinforced neck . The re-issues do have an adjustable truss rod , but you have to remove the neck to get at it . The last Chinese and the newest Korean re-issues have an easy headstock adjustment .

I'm going to catch it for saying that about the re-issues being better made than the American originals ...

The JJ instruments on the other hand were hand crafted professional boutique instruments .
 
Many Dano aficianados believe the wooden bridge sounds better than the adjustable metal one .

I did the set up on my Korean first generation re-issue when I first picked it up . Took off the neck and made a slight adjustment to the truss rod . Finding the sweet spot for the bridge took a little trial and error but I got it . I had one slightly high fret , but I tapped it down , and didn't have to do any filing after that . All in all I was quite impressed with the way it plays .

The tuners are what they are . I've learned to live with them and have not replaced them .

They are what they are , and are surprisingly easy to play , can sound great , and are a heck of a lot of fun to play .
 
All of the re-issues have truss rods , but with the earlier ones you have to remove the neck to adjust them . The newer ones adjust on the headstock .

The original American made Danos had steel reinforced necks that were not adjustable . Some of the originals required serious tweaking to get them playable .
 
Thanks for all the input! It is much appreciated! I may make the trip this weekend. I remember of my two JJ Longhorns I preferred the older one with the rosewood bridge over the newer Neptune option with the fully adjustable bridge. It had a much better sound and feel when you played finger style. It was next to impossible to intonate perfectly, but with patience you could get it really close. the only thing I don't like about playing shortscale basses is the string options. i don't care much for the feel of flats. They sound great but feel dead. I like a little feedback from my strings. Most rounds seem to go dead rather quickly on me. I love Elixer strings. Thats what I play on my Ric. They sound great and they last a long time, but they don't come in short scale. Has anyone here used longscale strings on their shortscale basses? If so, how did it work out for them?
 
All true. Also, as there is no adjustable truss rod take a good look at the neck. It is what it is and you can't change it.
All of the other stuff can be modded/ upgraded. replace bridge, a little wood filler to tighten up tuners etc. you will not hurt the value.

My 6 stringer has a Dano , I set it up for him , there is a truss rod , but you have to remove the neck to adjust it. That said , I have never had much use for the danos , I find the way they play and the way they sound screams cheap, never liked the long horns. but for 2 bones a re-issue is an ok deal if you are into them
 
I don't think it would be a good idea to put longer strings on a Dano . The posts are pretty thin .

I prefer the sound of well worn strings on mine , but I'm all about that old school thump . If you have had JJ Longhorns , the Dano feels and sounds a little different .
 
A friend had a JJ and we compared them . At the time the strings on the Dano were much fresher than those on the Jones . The Jones pickups were much hotter than the Dano .

The Danos are more apt to put out a little 60hz buzz too .

The strings on mine are the stock D'Addarios nickel wound 45-100 set and have been on for years . I like the sound of older strings . They sound great with short scale TI flat wound strings too .
 
The original American made Danos had steel reinforced necks that were not adjustable . Some of the originals required serious tweaking to get them playable .

For 60 years I've lived in towns around where the original Danos were made and I've had many pass through my hands over the decades. My experience with them is I've never seen one with any neck issues. In fact, I have one that somebody defretted long ago but they didn't bother to fill the fret slots, and the neck has no issues. Not saying some don't go wonky, just that the many I've seen/owned/played haven't had any neck issues.
 
For 60 years I've lived in towns around where the original Danos were made and I've had many pass through my hands over the decades. My experience with them is I've never seen one with any neck issues. In fact, I have one that somebody defretted long ago but they didn't bother to fill the fret slots, and the neck has no issues. Not saying some don't go wonky, just that the many I've seen/owned/played haven't had any neck issues.

I went through a ton of the 60s era Dans and Silvertones. And I had the same experiences, never a neck issue.
 
For 60 years I've lived in towns around where the original Danos were made and I've had many pass through my hands over the decades. My experience with them is I've never seen one with any neck issues. In fact, I have one that somebody defretted long ago but they didn't bother to fill the fret slots, and the neck has no issues. Not saying some don't go wonky, just that the many I've seen/owned/played haven't had any neck issues.

Big +1. Nat Daniel's original neck design of a poplar neck reinforced with two steel bars (non-adjustable) works very well. I have owned several & have seen/played many over the years and honestly, I don't ever remember ever seeing a badly warped (as in unplayable) one. Some are definitely better than others, but it is a great design.

It also played a part in the classic Danelectro sound, combined with the masonite/poplar(or pine or whatever was on hand) semi hollow body, low output lipstick tube pickups and rosewood saddle bridge (IMHO).

Not to say that there is anything wrong with the reissues. I've owned several (still have one); had an early blueburst longhorn (loved it... wish I still had it). I also purchased one of the first dead on longhorns; hated it, couldn't get rid of it fast enough (I hear the more recent ones are better).

Moonshine :bassist:
 
I've owned one of the korean basses,(a hodad) for about 10 years. I have recorded with it,and played numerous bar gigs,and it is a great bass,with a a unique tone. It was the first Dano bass to have the upgraded tuners and bridge. I have only played one of the originals from the 60's,and altho i did like it,the Hodad is a lot more versatile. I've always thought the longhorn was very cool looking,but kind of in need of some of those upgrades.(plus i don't really get on with most short scale basses,so take my opinion with a grain of salt)