the 1st and 3rd are pick up S/P switches and the middle switch is a Mid freq switch
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
the 1st and 3rd are pick up S/P switches and the middle switch is a Mid freq switch
I think something harder like @BurningSkies said. Especially if your planning on running rounds vs flats. It does depend on what sound your gonna go for. Oil will help give it that more organic/woody sound whereas epoxy will move it towards that busty open mwah trombone type sound.
johnsonabq
Watch out where the huskies go...
I went with alder/wenge/wenge on my AB1. Now I'm thinking of ash/maple/maple for my ABZ. I want another AB that brings something different to the table.
IvanBassist
Commercial User
- Jun 8, 2008
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If my memory doesn’t fail me, he was talking about an all wenge neck + alder
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
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We have a good network of Dingwall friends out there around the globe. Dingwall hardware fabricated in titanium...
Did you order some up? I’ve seen the fellow on FB I think posting about it
pricey?
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
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Yeah, I think it was Mark who got some after Erwin posted pics of his AB with Ti parts, and I commented. And I know Erwin from the way back (the old Dingwall forum, etc.) so he said if I wanted he could make 'em for me too. He basically offered to do them in any available metal/rare-metal element that I wanted. So he made two sets of 5 for me and a set of neck bolts. I wasn't sure that they would fit the Super series bridge plate, but they appear to. The other set I'm sending off to a friend. They're really nicely done. Even the screws/allen bolts are in titanium. The height screws are all different lengths to match the strings' heights as well.
Price wise, they weren't super expensive. He's more or less at this point doing it for the fun of it. Not free, but definitely was not too much of a worry to have two sets and the neck bolts done, though I don't know necessarily how other Ti bridge pieces price out because I've never even looked for 'em.
My playing interests are changing a bit, such that I'm looking to letting one of my aquamarine D-Birds go. If anyone with a 5 or 6 string Dingwall would be interested in a trade, PM me to chat about it.
I put up a thread in the classifieds: For Trade - Dingwall D-Bird Standard (4-String, Aquamarine Sparkle)
I put up a thread in the classifieds: For Trade - Dingwall D-Bird Standard (4-String, Aquamarine Sparkle)
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Figured I would share this response from Dingwall support regarding my Super P build.
We have a couple of favorite combinations at the shop
Warmer tone: Alder body, Maple neck, Pau Ferro fretboard
Slightly brighter: Alder body, Maple neck, Maple or Wenge fretboard
Full range tone: Alder body, Wenge neck, Wenge fretboard
Full range tone: Swamp ash body, Maple neck, Maple or Wenge fretboard
8 lbs is a challenge with a Super style model due to the body size. My recommendation to get it as close to that weight as possible is:
Swamp Ash body - specify light weight when ordering
Maple neck
Maple or Wenge fretboard
PS: I don't like to recommend deleting pickups but if weight is more important than tone options, deleting the bridge pickup will save some weight as well.
We have a couple of favorite combinations at the shop
Warmer tone: Alder body, Maple neck, Pau Ferro fretboard
Slightly brighter: Alder body, Maple neck, Maple or Wenge fretboard
Full range tone: Alder body, Wenge neck, Wenge fretboard
Full range tone: Swamp ash body, Maple neck, Maple or Wenge fretboard
8 lbs is a challenge with a Super style model due to the body size. My recommendation to get it as close to that weight as possible is:
Swamp Ash body - specify light weight when ordering
Maple neck
Maple or Wenge fretboard
PS: I don't like to recommend deleting pickups but if weight is more important than tone options, deleting the bridge pickup will save some weight as well.
Hey guys. I'm considering a Droc instead of a NG3 for my next Dingwall but don't have the chance to get my hands on one to try out. I'm curious how comfortable they are to play sitting/on your lap?
Also I'm wondering if when on a strap the fretting hand reach feels any different (shorter or longer) than a combustion or z body shape.
Thanks!
Also I'm wondering if when on a strap the fretting hand reach feels any different (shorter or longer) than a combustion or z body shape.
Thanks!
I've got two D-Birds. I really prefer the ergonomics of the D-Bird/D-Roc shape and neck. The reach on the low frets is a lot more manageable, in my experience. Especially if you wear the bass lower - it lends itself to a more upright kind of position that helps with reach and stretch.
Dbird is comfy sitting down as well. It’s a little different with all that body under your right forearm, but nice and smooth.
Balances perfectly, when wearing it with a strap, no neck dive. That said, I find it rolls away from you when hanging on a strap. If you need to keep an eye on your fretting fingers, this will be frustrating.
Reach to the nut seems easier than on the AB’s, longer than the Supers.
The Dbird thinks you should be engaging with the crowd rather than gazing at your fretboard. Bring some attitude.
Last, if you are into slapping, you’ll miss those last few frets and having the end of the neck closer to the neck pickup. You wouldn’t be able to reach them fretting anyway because of the body shape, (access to upper frets increased with the Droc) but that’s where you are used to slapping.
Not that you can’t get a good slap, just something to get used to.
There is a huge range of tones packed into the Dbird.
Balances perfectly, when wearing it with a strap, no neck dive. That said, I find it rolls away from you when hanging on a strap. If you need to keep an eye on your fretting fingers, this will be frustrating.
Reach to the nut seems easier than on the AB’s, longer than the Supers.
The Dbird thinks you should be engaging with the crowd rather than gazing at your fretboard. Bring some attitude.
Last, if you are into slapping, you’ll miss those last few frets and having the end of the neck closer to the neck pickup. You wouldn’t be able to reach them fretting anyway because of the body shape, (access to upper frets increased with the Droc) but that’s where you are used to slapping.
Not that you can’t get a good slap, just something to get used to.
There is a huge range of tones packed into the Dbird.
+1 for rolling away from you with a strap and standing. It’s so cool and fun to play I hardly notice!
The body shape is kinda awkward to play seated as you might expect. Not uncomfortable, but awkward because of the rear top part of the body gets in the way a bit. You either have to reach over it or change your seated playing position a bit so it's nowhere near as ergonomic as the Combustion/NG.
My advice would be if you are looking at one for your only bass then it'll come down to: are you're rocking out on stage more often? D-roc. Are you at home or recording and seated more often? NG.
Thanks a lot for the info on the Droc/Dbirds guys. It seems apparent I should stay with the shape I know and love.
One other thing I saw recently on a sale ad for a NG3 mentioned something like "with the new thinner neck". Did Dingwall recently change the neck carve on some basses and does anyone know the dimensions? I would love it if the Combustion series got thinner necks.
One other thing I saw recently on a sale ad for a NG3 mentioned something like "with the new thinner neck". Did Dingwall recently change the neck carve on some basses and does anyone know the dimensions? I would love it if the Combustion series got thinner necks.
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
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I've seldom been disappointed in saying yes when a unique opportunity arrives. Though I've occasionally had remorse when I've said 'no'.
The neck bolts, definitely. I rusted out the finish on the neck bolts on my AB back in the day from a year or two of heavy hot summer gigging. I tried a few varieties from Sheldon, Chrome Super-J finish, and the original 'hand treated' black ones as well as their 'standard issue' and the hand-treated (marine grade finish) were the ones that didn't corrode. I make a special request for hand-treated neck bolts on the Rastaburst as well...
...probably one of the oddest, most mundane custom features to ever be catered to by Dingwall.
Because of the 43% weight savings!
For the bridge hardware, it was more or less...just because I can.
I have no perceived flaws with the standard issue bridge parts, but the opportunity to try something new and different and see if there's a discernible change in sound, etc., seems like a good exercise.
