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Dingwall Owners Club

Folks, I'm in a wonderful position where I have to choose between an ABZ/II and a Z (my preferences). I currently have a beautiful SJ5 3x w/FD3s, which I love, but I want to round out my Dingwall stable with a 37" B. I do a fair amount of home recording and gig about 6 times a year - lot's of different musical styles. Have a couple of Warwicks (Corvette, Starbass) and I love that tone, and can get similar, fantastic tones from the SJ5. So, for those with an ABZ/ABII AND and Z - which do you pick up more, and why? I know the neck profile is one consideration, but are there significant tone differences? Perhaps more pertinent in the ABII/Z context unless the ABZ/Z tone differences are significant? It's a tough decision without being able to get my hands on these back to back. Appreciate your feedback as I look to finalize my build sheet in the coming days!
 
Folks, I'm in a wonderful position where I have to choose between an ABZ/II and a Z (my preferences). I currently have a beautiful SJ5 3x w/FD3s, which I love, but I want to round out my Dingwall stable with a 37" B. I do a fair amount of home recording and gig about 6 times a year - lot's of different musical styles. Have a couple of Warwicks (Corvette, Starbass) and I love that tone, and can get similar, fantastic tones from the SJ5. So, for those with an ABZ/ABII AND and Z - which do you pick up more, and why? I know the neck profile is one consideration, but are there significant tone differences? Perhaps more pertinent in the ABII/Z context unless the ABZ/Z tone differences are significant? It's a tough decision without being able to get my hands on these back to back. Appreciate your feedback as I look to finalize my build sheet in the coming days!
My Z and my ABs have drastically different electronics, so they sound wildly different. If the AB and Z have identical electronics, then you gotta ask if you're a believer in tone wood and kinda go from there.

Struggling to put this part to words. I wouldn't suggest that a Z has an inherent "tone", nor would an AB. It comes down to all the details, and what you personally find valuable or not. Even if both are similar woods and pickups, but one a Glock and the other DG, they'll be pretty different (though with a good bit of overlap, still).

Putting sound aside, I like the neck a lot more on the Z (and Prima) than the AB. It's not bad, at all, on the AB. The Z profile just agrees with me a bit more for 5 string.
 
My Z and my ABs have drastically different electronics, so they sound wildly different. If the AB and Z have identical electronics, then you gotta ask if you're a believer in tone wood and kinda go from there.

Struggling to put this part to words. I wouldn't suggest that a Z has an inherent "tone", nor would an AB. It comes down to all the details, and what you personally find valuable or not. Even if both are similar woods and pickups, but one a Glock and the other DG, they'll be pretty different (though with a good bit of overlap, still).

Putting sound aside, I like the neck a lot more on the Z (and Prima) than the AB. It's not bad, at all, on the AB. The Z profile just agrees with me a bit more for 5 string.

Thanks for the prompt reply - and understood re. the electronics. I have the Glock in my SJ and was going to proceed with that again regardless of which Dingwall I go forward with - it's wonderfully transparent, which is what I like. So in summary, tone = not a huge differentiator given other variables (dual density notwithstanding), and the neck profile is the most significant reason to chose the Z in your case.
 
You cant dilly dally or dawdle if you are prowling for Dingwalls.

Know the going rate prices on the used models in your hunting grounds.

Don’t be afraid to make a solid offer.

A reasonably priced Dingwall might not last the day here on TB.

If you get a solid deal, you’ll be able to recoup the funds if you decide to sell. I view used Dingwalls as very low risk, solid investments. Every one I’ve owned, seven so far, has been excellent. The four I’ve sold, I moved on because I wanted to stick with four strings. Or I just had too much gear.

International shipping is a huge hassle. Domestic shipping is expensive. A local cash and carry deal, while rare, is a bonus.

The TB classifieds is a great source for deals and pricing info on past deals.

Happy hunting!
 
Got the 1/4” knob yesterday to go with the 4 6mm knobs, along with a postage paid envelope to return the extra 6mm knob. Shout out to Jason and Fret Nation, they were awesome to deal with. As promised, here’s the new look. I love it.

View attachment 4381139 View attachment 4381140
That helps with picturing those knobs in my Ferrari Green NG. Yeah, I think I’m going to swap the knobs.

Also, anyone know what size knobs I’d need if I want to do the same for my D-Roc Standard?
 
Thanks for the prompt reply - and understood re. the electronics. I have the Glock in my SJ and was going to proceed with that again regardless of which Dingwall I go forward with - it's wonderfully transparent, which is what I like. So in summary, tone = not a huge differentiator given other variables (dual density notwithstanding), and the neck profile is the most significant reason to chose the Z in your case.


The neck profile is my prime reason for loving the Z over the AB, that said I also love the curves of the body. Rounded edges etc. Matching headstock, live the bridge on the Zs…I love how the Z hangs. The AB is no slouch in any department but these are a few additional bonuses to the neck profile that differentiate the models.
 
You cant dilly dally or dawdle if you are prowling for Dingwalls.

Know the going rate prices on the used models in your hunting grounds.

Don’t be afraid to make a solid offer.

A reasonably priced Dingwall might not last the day here on TB.

If you get a solid deal, you’ll be able to recoup the funds if you decide to sell. I view used Dingwalls as very low risk, solid investments. Every one I’ve owned, seven so far, has been excellent. The four I’ve sold, I moved on because I wanted to stick with four strings. Or I just had too much gear.

International shipping is a huge hassle. Domestic shipping is expensive. A local cash and carry deal, while rare, is a bonus.

The TB classifieds is a great source for deals and pricing info on past deals.

Happy hunting!

totally agree with all this aside from the international shipping. Do it fairly regularly. It does add additional expense but for the right pieces it’s just a procedure to complete
 
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love the inlays inside ghost inlays. I asked them to do that for me… not knowing it was done before… but they need to redo the cad and will not offer it currently.

At the time mine was done, I believe that there was more handwork involved than how they do a lot of markers these days. When we first bandied about the idea it was before the first block inlaid Super had been done. Part of the reasoning for the border was to give a bit of 'wiggleroom' with the delicate spalted maple inlay (from the same piece of wood as the top and the headstock) as well as to create some definition and weight. At the time there were no 'ghost inlays'.

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Note the x-acto blade and square in these shots...
 
Looks great man!!


there’s a few good guys here in Calgary, @Nofrettin has a guy doing too notch work on his Dingwalls on the west coast.

your in Ab right?

you could check out Jboairbrush but I’d guess your looking at massive bucks for his work. Unbelievable skill though and he’s here in Calgary.

In BC...but the way things are going there with a certain current issue might be AB soon lol
 
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