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Dingwall Owners Club

So if I may ask, did you play the prototype and if so how did it compare to your Canadian made Super PJ?
I did. Also filmed some playing with it for DW’s social channels :bassist:

It felt great! Very comfortable. I didn’t feel any “negative” difference. I’m super hyped :hyper:
IMG_0212.jpeg
 
Why doesn't anyone offer a four string 37-35"?
Would be a great offering even if it was only a custom option. It's established that the 37" was when it became sonicly superior so why only offer the 36.25" four string and offer BEAD from the factory.
 
Why doesn't anyone offer a four string 37-35"?
Would be a great offering even if it was only a custom option. It's established that the 37" was when it became sonicly superior so why only offer the 36.25" four string and offer BEAD from the factory.
Dingwall made a prototype 37" 4 string AB. Photos have been posted in the thread a few times. I would think that too few people are interested in 37" BEAD 4 strings to make it worth adding it to the options list because it would take redesigning the neck and changing the bridge/pickup layouts since Dingwall doesn't compromise (as in, they're not just going to design a 37" neck that can mate with the same body as a 36.25" neck).
 
Deposit placed with my friends down at The Bass Shop on my next custom Dingwall. They had build slots available, so hopefully it doesn’t take a massively long time. I’m still estimating 18-24 months.
  • 4-String Super P
  • Shell pink
  • 3-ply white/black/white pickguard
  • Maple neck and fretboard
  • Black hardware with Y keys
  • P-Tone pickup
  • Passive Tone Fusion electronics
Should be a killer machine that’s more simple than my Super J which has all the bells and whistles.
 
Deposit placed with my friends down at The Bass Shop on my next custom Dingwall. They had build slots available, so hopefully it doesn’t take a massively long time. I’m still estimating 18-24 months.
  • 4-String Super P
  • Shell pink
  • 3-ply white/black/white pickguard
  • Maple neck and fretboard
  • Black hardware with Y keys
  • P-Tone pickup
  • Passive Tone Fusion electronics
Should be a killer machine that’s more simple than my Super J which has all the bells and whistles.

That should be killer.

Does anyone know of a Super P/Super J price/options list online? FretNation has them for the Afterburners but I dont see one for the supers.
 
Well........... let's see what this fanned fret stuff is all about.

Was delivered yesterday. D Roc Standard. First impressions are it is well balanced, has a fast neck, and seems be
lighter than my Ric 4003s 5-er. The D Roc B string is also way better then the Rics. Not a flabby mess.
Taking it to rehearsal tonight! Can't wait to hear how it sounds in a band setting.

D Roc 5.jpg
 

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Well........... let's see what this fanned fret stuff is all about.

Was delivered yesterday. D Roc Standard. First impressions are it is well balanced, has a fast neck, and seems be
lighter than my Ric 4003s 5-er. The D Roc B string is also way better then the Rics. Not a flabby mess.
Taking it to rehearsal tonight! Can't wait to hear how it sounds in a band setting.

View attachment 5203673

Congrats. Nice bass
 
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This is a request based wholly in ridiculousness but-

Can someone talk me out of paying £300 to have someone rip the fretboard off and replace it with an ebony one, refret with the smallest evo gold (or similar brass/brass-like) frets I can find, and maybe a brass nut.

I want to change the overall character of the attack of the note, D-bird/D-rocs do this raspy thing in the mids on the attack of each note that I love but sometimes I wonder about the more quick, yet smoother attack something like a thumb bass (bubinga/wenge/ebony) has. The characteristics im longing for are moreso inherent to instruments construction rather than tone shaping, I can get 90% of the way to where I want to be with early signal chain eq and compression, but there's a part of me that wants the actual instrument to respond a little different under my fingers.

Should I just make the decision I need to start saving for another bass, or could I strike gold modding the hell out of an already incredible instrument ?
 

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This is a request based wholly in ridiculousness but-

Can someone talk me out of paying £300 to have someone rip the fretboard off and replace it with an ebony one, refret with the smallest evo gold (or similar brass/brass-like) frets I can find, and maybe a brass nut.

I want to change the overall character of the attack of the note, D-bird/D-rocs do this raspy thing in the mids on the attack of each note that I love but sometimes I wonder about the more quick, yet smoother attack something like a thumb bass (bubinga/wenge/ebony) has. The characteristics im longing for are moreso inherent to instruments construction rather than tone shaping, I can get 90% of the way to where I want to be with early signal chain eq and compression, but there's a part of me that wants the actual instrument to respond a little different under my fingers.

Should I just make the decision I need to start saving for another bass, or could I strike gold modding the hell out of an already incredible instrument ?

Absolutely will not talk you out of this.

FULL SEND!!! It's gonna be badass
 
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This is a request based wholly in ridiculousness but-

Can someone talk me out of paying £300 to have someone rip the fretboard off and replace it with an ebony one, refret with the smallest evo gold (or similar brass/brass-like) frets I can find, and maybe a brass nut.

I want to change the overall character of the attack of the note, D-bird/D-rocs do this raspy thing in the mids on the attack of each note that I love but sometimes I wonder about the more quick, yet smoother attack something like a thumb bass (bubinga/wenge/ebony) has. The characteristics im longing for are moreso inherent to instruments construction rather than tone shaping, I can get 90% of the way to where I want to be with early signal chain eq and compression, but there's a part of me that wants the actual instrument to respond a little different under my fingers.

Should I just make the decision I need to start saving for another bass, or could I strike gold modding the hell out of an already incredible instrument ?

I totally get your idea: I‘d absolutely agree about ebony fretboards bringing something very specific to the attack of a bass (whether a player prefers this over maple/rosewood/morado/wenge seems to be very personal, in my experience, but that’s merely a side note).

That said: I’m very surprised you found someone who is willing to exchange your fretboard
1. for ebony
2. replace your fanned frets
3. with Evo gold fretwire
4. for the price of only £300.

Could it be this is just labour costs, excluding materials? Even then, I‘d find this price a little too good to be true.

Personally, I love the necks of both my D-Roc and D-Bird Customs and would be very careful when entrusting these to someone else.

Then again, it’s your bass, so what do I know?
 
This is a request based wholly in ridiculousness but-

Can someone talk me out of paying £300 to have someone rip the fretboard off and replace it with an ebony one, refret with the smallest evo gold (or similar brass/brass-like) frets I can find, and maybe a brass nut.

I want to change the overall character of the attack of the note, D-bird/D-rocs do this raspy thing in the mids on the attack of each note that I love but sometimes I wonder about the more quick, yet smoother attack something like a thumb bass (bubinga/wenge/ebony) has. The characteristics im longing for are moreso inherent to instruments construction rather than tone shaping, I can get 90% of the way to where I want to be with early signal chain eq and compression, but there's a part of me that wants the actual instrument to respond a little different under my fingers.

Should I just make the decision I need to start saving for another bass, or could I strike gold modding the hell out of an already incredible instrument ?
I’m not one to talk anybody out of anything when it comes to GAS, but you might want to consider ordering a replacement neck, or send it back to the factory for the mod if they’re willing.

This isn’t some Fender that you’re thinking about modding, and this isn’t a simple pickup rout or wiring harness mod.

One of Sheldon’s magic tricks, is the incredible tuning stability of the Canadian-made instruments, and that one is science, not magic. My understanding is that there are a number of things involved, with just one of them being that the truss rod and fingerboard are bedded under high pressure, using a hydraulic press.

One of the Uber-geeks on here will know if the offshore models get the same treatment. Either way, the only people I would trust do do a complete fingerboard replacement on a Dingwall, happen to work in a small factory in Saskatoon.

Another caveat: there’s so much resin in ebony, that it takes an extremely long time to stabilize. Years ago, I built a neck-trough bass with a 5-piece maple neck with a book matched center Bubinga stringer, and a 24-fret Gaboon ebony fingerboard. This was back when jet-black ebony was still fairly easy to find, and I bought it from a highly respected supplier.

The only problem I ever had in 21 years of steady use, was a bunch of small stress cracks that showed up in the fingerboard, up around the 17th to 22nd fret. This was about 3 years in, and I had to stabilize them with crazy glue and ebony dust.

Rick Turner said that this is common when you bond ebony to maple, because the maple gives up moisture faster than ebony, revealing any stresses in the ebony.

So if you’re going with an ebony fingerboard, make sure that you’re getting Dingwall-grade ebony!