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Dingwall Owners Club

For me, the bridge in my V4 Combustion was about the only downside. So, I had it upgraded with a Payson Bridge. I had Conklin Guitars (local to me) do work.

You can see part of a hole where the G string is from the original saddles but, it's not noticeable from a distance and wasn't a deal breaker for me. The added benefits of this bridge over the saddles was way worth it.
 

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For me, the bridge in my V4 Combustion was about the only downside. So, I had it upgraded with a Payson Bridge. I had Conklin Guitars (local to me) do work.

You can see part of a hole where the G string is from the original saddles but, it's not noticeable from a distance and wasn't a deal breaker for me. The added benefits of this bridge over the saddles was way worth it.

I have one of Payson's bridges on it's way to me for my NG2, but I'm not sure if I will be okay with the hole showing. One of the benefits I was interested in having is more mass, would you say that's one of the improvements over the uni bridge system for yours?

Edit: After studying pics of yours, I may be able to fashion a matching trim piece to mask the hole. Hmmm......
 
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The mechanical engineer in me is not able to jive with the bridge design being an improvement. Anyone have A/B recordings by chance?

Is this in reference to the Payson or the new Dingwall bridges? I saw that the combustion/ng-2 bridges are different this year, but hoping that change doesn't hit the Canadian basses. The screws took a little getting used to, but I really dig that system now, and the aesthetics are definitely there on the Super/AB series bridge
 
I have one of Payson's bridges on it's way to me for my NG2, but I'm not sure if I will be okay with the hole showing. One of the benefits I was interested in having is more mass, would you say that's one of the improvements over the uni bridge system for yours?

Edit: After studying pics of yours, I may be able to fashion a matching trim piece to mask the hole. Hmmm......

More mass for sure. The biggest improvement comes in play when needing to make bridge adjustments and intonation changes. It's way more precise than manually moving the saddles with your fingers...

The mechanical engineer in me is not able to jive with the bridge design being an improvement. Anyone have A/B recordings by chance?

I don't have any A/B recordings but after playing it out last night, it sounds no different than before. The sound wasn't I was trying to improve on.

This bridge design is more in line with you'd get on a Canadian Dingwall.
 
For me, the bridge in my V4 Combustion was about the only downside. So, I had it upgraded with a Payson Bridge. I had Conklin Guitars (local to me) do work.

You can see part of a hole where the G string is from the original saddles but, it's not noticeable from a distance and wasn't a deal breaker for me. The added benefits of this bridge over the saddles was way worth it.

That looks nice. I may have to do that too. I don't particularly like the crappy pot metal mono-bridges on my combustion. For such a nice bass, they just seem cheap. And I absolutely hate the way the intonation adjusts on them. I have looked at the Hipshot solo-single bridges. That might be a good way too without leaving a hole. Did you look at those too when you decided to get rid of the others?

Hipshot Solo-Single String Bass Bridge - Best Bass Gear
 
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That looks nice. I may have to do that too. I don't particularly like the crappy pot metal mono-bridges on my combustion. For such a nice bass, they just seem cheap. And I absolutely hate the way the intonation adjusts on them. I have looked at the Hipshot solo-single bridges. That might be a good way too without leaving a hole. Did you look at those too when you decided to get rid of the others?

Hipshot Solo-Single String Bass Bridge - Best Bass Gear

That's the main reason I made the change myself. I looked at the Hipshot but wanted something closer to how the Canadian Dingwalls were.

According to Conklin, they could have worked around the hole. It wasn't worth it for me though to add labor hours into my bill.

People buy "relic'd" basses with screw holes all over them, so not a deal breaker for me. Now my bass has mojo and a much improved bridge. ;)
 
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That's the main reason I made the change myself. I looked at the Hipshot but wanted something closer to how the Canadian Dingwalls were.

According to Conklin, they could have worked around the hole. It wasn't worth it for me though to add labor hours into my bill.

People buy "relic'd" basses with screw holes all over them, so not a deal breaker for me. Now my bass has mojo and a much improved bridge. ;)

Very interesting. I'd be interested in what Conklin's work around involved, if you wouldn't mind posting it, or sending me a PM.

It may be immediately apparent to me when I get the bridge, but I'm always interested in "cheating" and having an expert tell me the answer lol....
 
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That's the main reason I made the change myself. I looked at the Hipshot but wanted something closer to how the Canadian Dingwalls were.

According to Conklin, they could have worked around the hole. It wasn't worth it for me though to add labor hours into my bill.

People buy "relic'd" basses with screw holes all over them, so not a deal breaker for me. Now my bass has mojo and a much improved bridge. ;)

I'm sold on it. I really like the way it looks. I have already replaced all the tuners with USA Hipshot tuners. And it came used already upgraded to FD3 4-L pickups.

Where can I buy one of the Payson bridges?
 
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Ok...
Very interesting. I'd be interested in what Conklin's work around involved, if you wouldn't mind posting it, or sending me a PM.

It may be immediately apparent to me when I get the bridge, but I'm always interested in "cheating" and having an expert tell me the answer lol....

I just spoke to Bill Conklin. He said the way mine was put it was using the existing holes (drop in fit).

The bridge could be moved forward to cover the holes but, the bass would have to be filled in and re-drilled. It's totally doable, just more work.
 
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That bridge is a nice looking piece of engineering. The intonation adjustment is slick. I've spent a good bit of time setting intonation on my Super series, since I change strings and gauges often.
I end up using tape with pen marks to gauge how far I go back and forth. Not a big deal, but a screw is a clever solution.

I was wondering, do the NG's come with a little bottle of touch up paint? Or could that be sourced for a good color match? Dings happen.
 
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