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Do what they say cant' be done...A Warmoth Build

chadhargis

Jack of all grooves, master of none
Supporting Member
Jan 5, 2010
3,941
5,377
Nashville, TN
So, here I am, waiting for my new custom built Moonshine bass to be completed and I'm selling off basses and gear to fund it and re-evaluating my rig and what I like and don't like.

In my stupidity....I sold one of the very best P basses I've ever laid hands on. My 2011 Fender American Standard Precision V. Strung with LaBella flats it had that old school vibe and after a little neck shim to allow me some more saddle height adjustment, she played like a million bucks. Was fairly light too, especially for a fiver. Stupidly, I sole 'er and I miss 'er so much.

So I started hunting for a new P pass. A four string this time as the B string with flats on a P bass never just blew me away. It was functional, but I never really rode the B string on the P hard anyway. Mostly played music that didn't require it. I also wanted a good old vintage style P, and that's a 4 banger.

I hunted high and hunted low. I went to every music shop in town. I played P basses from $149 to $3000. Obviously, the high dollar basses were excellent, but I'm not that cash flush. I set my budget to $1000. Figuring I could score a good used American Fender for that, or a new Mexican P. I tried to like the multiple versions of the Mexican stuff. Nothing excited me. I didn't bond with anything. Then I played a beautiful Lake Placid Blue with a tort pick guard Fender 60's Original....oh mamma. I liked it. LPB has long been my favorite Fender color. I even painted a pedal on my board LPB because I love it so much. I was in love. Then....two things jumped out at me. They are serious about the "vintage" part...looks like you have to remove the neck to do a truss rod adjustment. I could be wrong, but there was no cut out in the body to reach the adjuster. The second thing....the price. Nearly $2000! For a P bass. For a P bass that really has nothing special going for it. Just a P bass.

So I went on Warmoth's site and started pricing things.

  1. LPB standard P body - check
  2. Maple neck - ooooh wait! ROASTED FLAME MAPLE...oh hell yes!
  3. Fingerboard - same roasted flame maple (with black dots)
  4. Tuners - Schallers...can't go wrong
  5. Bridge - Gotoh vintage
  6. Pickup - Good old Lindy Fralin
  7. Wiring - Emerson kit (insanely clean wiring! I'm a stickler for my wiring)
  8. Pickguard - tort
  9. Hardware and stuff....all accounted for
Total: About $1100 for everything.

Yeah...that's expensive, but it's not $2000 and it's EXACTLY what I want in a P bass. Nice big chunky P bass neck (no Jazz bass necks on P basses...YUCK!!). Even got me some LaBella flats ready to string up.

So they say you can't build a Warmoth and save money. We'll see. I think I will end up with bass just as good as the 60's Original for half the price. Yes, I know, it won't have any resell value. But I've learned my lesson....as a bass player in Nashville, you need a P bass. I will always have a P bass.

All the items were in stock except for the neck. I couldn't find one premade with the graphite rods in it. So I'll be waiting 4 to 5 weeks for the neck to be made. Then I'll start bolting things together.

Stay tuned!
 
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the american original has nitro lacquer paint but besides that, what you're building is fundamentally similar. fralins are great pickups. hopefully when it's all put together it's as good or better as the original you played.

did you try a road worn? great necks. my road worn p bass sounds and feels great. buying used and refinishing the body in lake placid blue would most likely come in under $1000.
 
the american original has nitro lacquer paint but besides that, what you're building is fundamentally similar. fralins are great pickups. hopefully when it's all put together it's as good or better as the original you played.

did you try a road worn? great necks. my road worn p bass sounds and feels great. buying used and refinishing the body in lake placid blue would most likely come in under $1000.

I considered buying use parts and doing all the proper refin work, but I don't really have the tools or space to do a quality job. I'm not a big believer in the "nitro sounds better" stuff. I've owned both and I actually prefer poly for durability. The neck being roasted maple will have no finish on it. I will give it a few coats of tung oil or tru-oil just to protect it from dirt and grime. I've had great luck with tung oil. Literally wipe it on, let it soak in, the buff off. The neck will still feel like raw wood but it will be protected.

By the time I bought the body, the tools, the supplies, and worked on painting, sanding, polishing, and buffing all over the time it takes the finish to fully cure....I'd rather just buy Warmoths body and be done with it.

I have the patience of a 7yo at on Christmas morning. I do plan on dressing the frets and rounding the fingerboard edges myself. That only requires a fret dressing file and a razor blade...both of which I have. Just have to go slow and be careful. Since the neck is not finished, it will be easy to roll the edges. It will feel like a 50yo neck when I'm done.
 
I come from a long line of people who stand in long lines.
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Race you to Milliways! :D
 
The difference being the $2k bass will likely still be worth $2k in a few years, if not more. Your Warmoth parts bass is worth much less than you paid as soon as you open the box and will only go down from there.

- John
Yeah, they've totally kept their $2k-ish value. :rolleyes:

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But I suppose, if one wants to split hairs (wait…wait…let me get my X-ACTO knife), there is a big difference between "worth" and "the price one can fetch for it". If @chadhargis is successful in this venture, then it's totally worth the price-tag, regardless of the price he could fetch for it should he decide to sell it.

I, and probably a great many others, am very aware the resale value of my own, rather unique Warmoth creation is pooptastic, but "resale value" isn't the point. Often it's to create something that doesn't exist in nature, rather than being forced to buy strictly off-the-shelf items other people say is the way to go.

(Note: Still a work-in-progress)
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The beauty of the homegrown route - you can make exactly what you want, often at a price that's a little less than a commercially manufactured instrument (and even if it were to be a few bucks more, it's the instrument that you imagine and put together).

For me, the critical stage is always early on, making sure the neck is tight in the pocket and the bridge is well aligned to it. I've screwed up one there, but was able to salvage it with a bridge having different mounting holes. I very much doubt I'll ever buy an instrument again, other than what I put together personally ... no need! :thumbsup:
 
Yeah, they've totally kept their $2k-ish value. :rolleyes:

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But I suppose, if one wants to split hairs (wait…wait…let me get my X-ACTO knife), there is a big difference between "worth" and "the price one can fetch for it". If @chadhargis is successful in this venture, then it's totally worth the price-tag, regardless of the price he could fetch for it should he decide to sell it.

I, and probably a great many others, am very aware the resale value of my own, rather unique Warmoth creation is pooptastic, but "resale value" isn't the point. Often it's to create something that doesn't exist in nature, rather than being forced to buy strictly off-the-shelf items other people say is the way to go.

(Note: Still a work-in-progress)
View attachment 3193269
View attachment 3193270

A thing of beauty!
 
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A thing of beauty!
…and maybe I'll finally get around to staining and finishing the damn thing! :banghead: :facepalm: :rolleyes: Still, thanks bunches. I hope I'll be able to complete it this year.

Yeah, I was on the wrong wavelength. Wrong bass. Read to quickly. I thought he had actually found a 60s LPB bass for $2k.

- John
No problem, John. ;)