Maybe an optical illusion but the neck seems crooked to the body.... or the pickup looks crooked...
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The difference being the $2k bass will likely still be worth $2k in a few years, if not more. Your Warmoth parts bass is worth much less than you paid as soon as you open the box and will only go down from there.
- John
Good good point, but if it’s a daily player, it’s true value is bringing a good playing experience, not in resale. Hang onto in long enough, you get your money’s worth.
The trick is you need to have a little assembly experience and know how to finesse parts together and whip a good set up on it. A little shave/file/sand and polish here and there, if that. But I end up doing that with a lot of assembly line basses too.
I'd go out on a limb and say I enjoy working on basses as much as I do playing them.
... if it’s a daily player, it’s true value is bringing a good playing experience, not in resale. Hang onto it long enough, you get your money’s worth.
It's not an optical illusion as much as "a projekt in progress". Specifically, the neck and other parts are just sitting there without being screwed down. I took this pic right after unboxing it so I could make sure the neck, pickups and output jack fit properly into their respective places.Maybe an optical illusion but the neck seems crooked to the body.... or the pickup looks crooked...
Too true, Tattoo!Plus, it's nearly always more fun if you built it, bass, boats, airplanes...
I do plan on dressing the frets and rounding the fingerboard edges myself. That only requires a fret dressing file and a razor blade...
I've only played a few "store bought" basses that felt good to me. And all of them were over $3000 with a few being close to five figures.
Well, it's not a 34" scale P-Bass, but it is a Warmoth; a 30" scale Mini-P. Swamp Ash body, 3TB lacquer finish; Maple neck w/ Coral dots; Schaller bridge and tuners (yeah, I love 'em, too); SD Vintage pickup; "vintage" wiring and cap; and fairly high-end bits and pieces. It's pretty much a Mini-Me clone of my '78 P-Bass, and even with paying Chris Davis (the luthier @ Cowtown Guitars) to build it, it cost just under $1400. If you're a righty, and can find an in-stock body and/or neck that you like, you could probably do even better than I did. The real problem with Warmoth is that they're masters at overwhelming their customers with So many cool options...
It takes iron self control to stick with what you originally wanted, in the face of all the choices they throw at you...
View attachment 3194415 Well, it's not a 34" scale P-Bass, but it is a Warmoth; a 30" scale Mini-P. Swamp Ash body, 3TB lacquer finish; Maple neck w/ Coral dots; Schaller bridge and tuners (yeah, I love 'em, too); SD Vintage pickup; "vintage" wiring and cap; and fairly high-end bits and pieces. It's pretty much a Mini-Me clone of my '78 P-Bass, and even with paying Chris Davis (the luthier @ Cowtown Guitars) to build it, it cost just under $1400. If you're a righty, and can find an in-stock body and/or neck that you like, you could probably do even better than I did. The real problem with Warmoth is that they're masters at overwhelming their customers with So many cool options...It takes iron self control to stick with what you originally wanted, in the face of all the choices they throw at you...
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Wouldn't it be safer and easier to have Warmoth do the holes for you?Time for an quick update.
It's been nearly three weeks since I placed my order with Warmoth and they claim 4 to 5 weeks for a custom neck, so I'm still waiting. Waiting on basses seems to be my thing these days. I'm really not that patient.
I did make one change. I'm going with Fender American series tuners. I liked them on my previous two Fenders, and decided to use them on this build. Normally I'd do something trick, but remember, this is a "basic" bass. Nothing fancy on this one. The only problem with the Fender tuners is having to drill the holes for the locating tabs. There are two per tuner. I don't have a drill press, so I'm going to have to buy one, or find someone who will let me use theirs. I also need to drill the holes for the pick guard and string tree. Since I'm using roasted maple, pilot holes are critical as it's very dry and susceptible to splitting.
Wouldn't it be safer and easier to have Warmoth do the holes for you?