My go to is a MM Sterling for funk and rock which I’ve played fewer gigs this last year. I am playing many more jazz trio/quartet gigs using a an active Fretless bass so guess I’m firmly in the Active category
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That may be true and the FOH situation is absolutely part of the equationI would chalk all of that up more to the room/FOH/amplifier settings and the rest of the band than the fact that a bass has an active on-board EQ.
I think it also depends on the active bass in question. There are a LOT of super sizzly, hi-fi actives out there that are kind of 'scooped' to begin with, which wouldn't be my choice. I like something rooted in a solid passive-DNA tone to begin with.... like a Lakland or a Sadowsky.That may be true and the FOH situation is absolutely part of the equation
But it is also a part beyond my direct control in most of my situations
Over time I have gravitated towards a "not perfect but hard for others to F up " tone
Which for me is passive. There may well be an active solution equally robust, but I have found no need.
Curious what the percentages are
. Also, the myth of 'passive sounds better live' is just that.... a myth.
There is a lot of truth in how one can alter the tone of a bass by how it is played (and where...from over the neck all the way to the bridge), even on a stock passive bass with a very simple, single tone control.I think it also depends on the active bass in question. There are a LOT of super sizzly, hi-fi actives out there that are kind of 'scooped' to begin with, which wouldn't be my choice. I like something rooted in a solid passive-DNA tone to begin with.... like a Lakland or a Sadowsky.
I too prefer a bypass switch, but of course StingRays don't have 'em, so I take a passive backup bass and batteries when I'm using a StingRay. (I always take a second bass to gigs anyway.)Mostly passive, but there's no wrong answer, to be sure. I prefer the warm, passive, vintage tone in my old age. But there is a place for active basses, for sure. Totally personal preference. If I play an active bass, it has to have a passive bypass that still works even if the batteries die as a failsafe. But that's just me.
I'm glad EBMM took some of that sizzle out of the StingRay with the Special. To me, it gets a bit closer to being able to cop a more passive-sounding tone.I think it also depends on the active bass in question. There are a LOT of super sizzly, hi-fi actives out there that are kind of 'scooped' to begin with, which wouldn't be my choice. I like something rooted in a solid passive-DNA tone to begin with.... like a Lakland or a Sadowsky.
You need an option for 60/40.
I've said it many times: passive tone knob on an active bass FTW.![]()
Never played a Special, but it's easy to tame the sizzle by rolling back the treble knob. Always been my solution with a 'Ray 3 band. Boost the bass, cut the treble, and adjust mids to the room - usually a bit of a cut to take away some of the aggressiveness. The 2-band is even better, and my preferred EQ for a StingRay. The passive USA SUB fretless I owned many years ago was a very unique, dark sound, and I think EBMM would sell a lot of them if they put that bespoke 2-band passive EQ in a full scale StingRay bass again.I'm glad EBMM took some of that sizzle out of the StingRay with the Special. To me, it gets a bit closer to being able to cop a more passive-sounding tone.
Active basses are heavier? My circa-8lb Lakland and Sadowsky basses would beg to differ.I don't really like their tone, they're heavy, they have knobs that I'll rarely mess with and they're more expensive. Whats to like?