Don't be afraid to make your own pickguards

[PNC7]

Are you asking me? The perimeter of that pickguard in those pictures was cut by my usual process of a MDF template and two routers. I was cutting that P-pickup opening by hand because it was a one-off special.

But I could have made that whole pickguard by hand, shaping it with files. I've done it many times on custom pickguards. Basic craftsmanship, using files to bring the shape to the lines and make it smooth and even. Looking at it by eye and steering the file to trim the lumps. Keep at it until it looks right. Same with hand filing the bevels.

It's not difficult, and doesn't take as long as you think. You could learn to do it yourself with a bit of practice. I can hand-cut a pickguard of that complexity, working from a paper template, in under 2 hours. That includes the pickup opening and the screw holes. If I make up a hand-cut custom pickguard for a customer, for a bass that's brought in to my shop, it's usually a $100-$125 job.

Note: I don't make custom pickguards any more. I'm way too busy with everything else. So please don't ask me for quotes!

Hey Bruce, after reading your comments and others above, I took a crack at making my own pickguard using a paper tracing, a handheld rotary tool with cutting disc, and some hand files. I am (cautiously optimistically) probably like 80% of the way there (see pic!), but getting nervous as I am starting to file closer to the edge and run out of room for error.

I was wondering if you or anyone else here has any advice on which type / shape of file is best for the finish (especially for the curves) and the beveling? I am probably not going to get this perfect and smooth on my first try, but would greatly appreciate any wisdom from you vets to get me closer.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Hey Bruce, after reading your comments and others above, I took a crack at making my own pickguard using a paper tracing, a handheld rotary tool with cutting disc, and some hand files. I am (cautiously optimistically) probably like 80% of the way there (see pic!), but getting nervous as I am starting to file closer to the edge and run out of room for error.

I was wondering if you or anyone else here has any advice on which type / shape of file is best for the finish (especially for the curves) and the beveling? I am probably not going to get this perfect and smooth on my first try, but would greatly appreciate any wisdom from you vets to get me closer.

Well, good! I'm glad you summoned up the courage to give it a try. It's really not difficult to make a pickguard. A little bit of patience and craftsmanship.

I normally use a 6" or 8" Half Round file for most of the perimeter, including the bevels. Usually a fairly coarse Bastard grade because it cuts faster. Use the flat side on the straights and convex curves, and the rounded side on the larger concave curves. A small round file is good for the tight little corners, like inside the pickup opening. And a square or triangle file is also handy for cleaning up the flat sides of the pickup opening.

Use your cutoff disc to rough out the shape to within 1/16" of the line, then use the coarse files to bring it right to the line and make the shape smooth and true. Then use the scraper to remove the file marks and make the surface of the edges & bevels smooth.

 

[PNC7]

Well, good! I'm glad you summoned up the courage to give it a try. It's really not difficult to make a pickguard. A little bit of patience and craftsmanship.

I normally use a 6" or 8" Half Round file for most of the perimeter, including the bevels. Usually a fairly coarse Bastard grade because it cuts faster. Use the flat side on the straights and convex curves, and the rounded side on the larger concave curves. A small round file is good for the tight little corners, like inside the pickup opening. And a square or triangle file is also handy for cleaning up the flat sides of the pickup opening.

Use your cutoff disc to rough out the shape to within 1/16" of the line, then use the coarse files to bring it right to the line and make the shape smooth and true. Then use the scraper to remove the file marks and make the surface of the edges & bevels smooth.

For the bevel, assuming you'd just take the flat side of the file at a 45 degree angle and take it slow?

 

[Bruce Johnson]

For the bevel, assuming you'd just take the flat side of the file at a 45 degree angle and take it slow?

Yep. Of course, you use the rounded side if you are filing the bevel in the concave curves. When filing the bevels, it only takes a couple of strokes of the file. You aren't removing very much material. Take it slow and make it consistent. Also, you usually don't want to file the bevel all the way down to the full thickness of the material. That leaves a sharp edge at the bottom which will easily get ragged and look ugly. The bevel should only go down about 2/3 of the thickness of the material, leaving the bottom 1/3 straight vertical.

If you are using a 3-layer pickguard material, like Black/White/Black, use the lower edge of the White layer as your guideline. That is, file the bevel on the top two layers, but leave the bottom black layer straight.

The angle of the bevel isn't critical; just try to keep it even all the way around. The important thing visually, is to keep the width of the bevel equal all the way around. That's what you should be watching as you are filing.

 

[2saddleslab]

For the bevel, assuming you'd just take the flat side of the file at a 45 degree angle and take it slow?

I custom ordered a pg from WD and requested a bevel around the entire perimeter. When it arrived the top edge was not beveled. Using similar procedures as Bruce suggests I was able to match the rest of the pg. Take it slow and check your progress often.

 

[PNC7]

Reporting back after finishing my first attempt! Figured I'd outline my process for anyone else who stumbles across this thread or Googles how to do this at some point. In my case, I don't have the space for a good work bench, router, etc, so for my own needs I basically had to use whatever I could on a table out on my deck. I ended up going with a rotary tool / dremel ($30 on Amazon) for 90% of the job, mainly using the small cutoff disc and sanding drum attachments.

My general process (and the process I'd probably use again) was:

1. Traced my pickguard on printer paper (taped two sheets together) and taped the tracing securely to the raw pickguard material
2. Cut out the shape with maybe half an inch of extra space, using my rotary tool saw
3. Used the sanding drum attachment at a higher RPM to slowly go around and around, grinding down the extra material to the shape of the tracing
4. Used the sanding drum on a lower RPM to smooth out the edges, and do some light beveling
5. Used a small drill bit for the small screw holes, and then slightly bigger drill bits to start the bigger holes for the pots
6. Used a round hand file to finish off some details too small for the rotary tool (holes for the pots and the little pickup curves)

Definitely doable by hand with a saw and file as Bruce outlined above, but that was taking me way longer, and as I don't have dedicated space to do a job like this, I sacrificed some precision and nicer finish / beveling for the sake of time. Overall I am happy with the end product (I give myself a solid B), and plan to do it again in the future! Thanks again to Bruce and all in this thread who have thrown out tips and tricks.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Reporting back after finishing my first attempt! Figured I'd outline my process for anyone else who stumbles across this thread or Googles how to do this at some point. In my case, I don't have the space for a good work bench, router, etc, so for my own needs I basically had to use whatever I could on a table out on my deck. I ended up going with a rotary tool / dremel ($30 on Amazon) for 90% of the job, mainly using the small cutoff disc and sanding drum attachments.

My general process (and the process I'd probably use again) was:

1. Traced my pickguard on printer paper (taped two sheets together) and taped the tracing securely to the raw pickguard material
2. Cut out the shape with maybe half an inch of extra space, using my rotary tool saw
3. Used the sanding drum attachment at a higher RPM to slowly go around and around, grinding down the extra material to the shape of the tracing
4. Used the sanding drum on a lower RPM to smooth out the edges, and do some light beveling
5. Used a small drill bit for the small screw holes, and then slightly bigger drill bits to start the bigger holes for the pots
6. Used a round hand file to finish off some details too small for the rotary tool (holes for the pots and the little pickup curves)

Definitely doable by hand with a saw and file as Bruce outlined above, but that was taking me way longer, and as I don't have dedicated space to do a job like this, I sacrificed some precision and nicer finish / beveling for the sake of time. Overall I am happy with the end product (I give myself a solid B), and plan to do it again in the future! Thanks again to Bruce and all in this thread who have thrown out tips and tricks.

View attachment 7034782

View attachment 7034783

Looks good! Your technique with the Dremel is fine, if that worked best for your tool/shop situation. If I'm making one with all hand tools, I'd saw it to within 1/8" of the line with a coping saw, then finish off the shape with files. I've done plenty like that in the past.

One note about using the Dremel with the drum sander: I'd use the coarsest sanding sleeve you have, with the Dremel spinning very slow. That will cut quickly with minimal melting of the vinyl on the sleeve.

Also, drilling the 3/8" holes in the vinyl for the pots and jack is a little tricky. A regular 3/8" drill bit will spiral into the vinyl and rip it up if you aren't careful. And a Brad Point bit isn't much better. The Pro trick is to use a 3/8" Pilot Bit. These are special drill bits made for drilling sheet metal, with slight reverse angle cutting edges and a small pilot bit in the center. You drill an 1/8" hole first, then the Pilot Bit will locate in the 1/8" hole and gently cut out a disc of vinyl, without spiraling or ripping the vinyl. A nice, neat hole.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1924-8-Inch-Ferrous-Oxide/dp/B00004YMEW/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3VO5LQMU3G1ZM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zuPhKi12AoqM6BvdlD_dWoG0o0SKBQm3JCP7nvBJWNRXhQbe93Bee66fr3dcW_a_MsKF0mC5E8b0MGP0yCZztc0UA0o4-auwt2FC-Dtd8FnuNIXtAdnwNmEV0GEoyIjeteFWHqwLDTzK_1AdtmMiWZoFCWNfgwWUIQ8qwUCsVorTGBHNsilj-PDf-kF35a4hjPVd06XxKY5gkAoEoBkdBa9-onu_sYt6Wky2v1kKyzilv5WfL1aakiurilSP4VTk9Chm3sYL6Q8hjfel5gWFMLlWRM3JjjtaaXfcOapEQjc.NOQFJHUKDsCWUA6WqRRT0W4yHI92W-OO4eDEYuw6BUI&dib_tag=se&keywords=3%2F8%2Bpilot%2Bpoint%2Bdrill%2Bbit&qid=1726943336&sprefix=pilot%2Bdrill%2Bbit%2B3%2F8%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-6&th=1

 

[jimi55lp]

I'm building a 1951 Precision using a WD ash body & MIM Fender neck. I need to make a pickguard with a phenolic (Bakelite) sheet. Thinking I'll use my electric scroll saw with a fine 24 teeth per inch blade (hoping the material won't shatter). The drum sander attached to my drill press for final shaping, and not sure how to round over the edges that need it. Thinking the paper template will work? I'll spray it with clear lacquer when it is finished.