DR strings: crimp before cutting?

[FirewalZ]

Most strings do need to be cut down to proper size so you don't end up with something like this:

View attachment 4407580

I seem to have a LOT more issues getting the proper length on the newer micro posts vs the bigger ones on the old Fenders. Like someone else said, two tuners past and cut is perfect. However on my newer Am Pro, the tuning post is so much smaller, and I have a difficult time judging the length, and almost always have to much string

 

[OldSchoolFlats]

I seem to have a LOT more issues getting the proper length on the newer micro posts vs the bigger ones on the old Fenders. Like someone else said, two tuners past and cut is perfect. However on my newer Am Pro, the tuning post is so much smaller, and I have a difficult time judging the length, and almost always have to much string

I have the big posts, and just changed strings for first time on a new bass. Used old strings for reference, but still ended-up with a bit too much winding since it is hard to measure the curled-up end on old string.

Measured and wrote down the length past the peg for each string, so I can fine-tune for next time.

 

[mark107]

I have played bass for 25 years, and do all my string changes myself. The ONLY string model I have had issues with, is DR Sunbeams. In spite of following the instructions perfectly, I quickly had a string go completely dead shortly after. Happened twice, different basses, different batches of Sunbeams. I will not buy Sunbeams again.

OTOH, my go-to SS rounds since many years are the DR LowRiders, and I have no problems with them, quality and life span has been great!

I used more set of Sunbeams than I can count, including taking sets off and moving them to other basses. Never an issue. Yes, I crimp.

 

[Oldbasslover]

Saw a post about DR strings going bad if you don’t crimp them properly: but I did not follow.

Is the idea to but a bend in the string where you are going to cut it, and cut it a few mm past the bend?

I have some DR Nickel Sunbeams I want to put on, but only to have higher gauge strings, not for more zing. After reading here that DRs had major issues though, I am hesitant.

6 min into this video describes what I mean:

BTW, I do want to keep round-wounds on this bass. It is just that if DRs are as bad as recent posts suggest, I might stick with the D'Addario EXL170 / 0.045-0.100 that it has now, for the moment.

Jason DeSalvo’s explanation (many years Fodera Guitars top set-up guy) says the crimp is essential to keep the core wire engaged with the outer wraps. If the crimp is not enough, or the cut is too close to the crimp, the core wire can become disengaged resulting in a dead string.
Supposedly due to design, hex core should not need this. Jason’s answer- repetition is the key to your setup being exactly the same every time. It takes 3 seconds, crimp and cut past the bend on every string you use.
Works for me…

 

[BrentSimons]

Saw a post about DR strings going bad if you don’t crimp them properly: but I did not follow.

Is the idea to but a bend in the string where you are going to cut it, and cut it a few mm past the bend?

I have some DR Nickel Sunbeams I want to put on, but only to have higher gauge strings, not for more zing. After reading here that DRs had major issues though, I am hesitant.

6 min into this video describes what I mean:

BTW, I do want to keep round-wounds on this bass. It is just that if DRs are as bad as recent posts suggest, I might stick with the D'Addario EXL170 / 0.045-0.100 that it has now, for the moment.

Oh yes do the crimp on the round core DR's. Hi Beams, Sunbeams, etc
DR strings are great. I'm not sure where the negative posts are. Like everything they might not be for everyone.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

You might find this interesting. It's from Newtone strings in England, and they are very clear about crimping any of their round core strings before cutting them..
Do not cut Newtone Strings???? – Newtone Strings

 

[Killing Floor]

I started playing in about 1978 and grew to a touring pro for a while. I have been relentlessly seeking the perfect set of strings for as long as I've been able to afford replacements. If I look at my Ray or Sabre (the basses I use rounds on) there have been at least 8 sets of DR Hi Beams on my Sabre this year. I know I've cut and installed over 100 sets of those because they are my favorite rounds on that bass. Are you saying I need to do something different with DR strings? What makes them structurally different?

 

[DwaynieAD]

I've had 2 bass strings break in my life
One daddario
One ernie ball
Both b strings

I've been using Dr strings nearly exclusively for 20 years and have no issues

The post the op is referring had one guy with sweaty hands saying his strings went dead and then a few people who didn't crimp complaining about them unwinding, but op is drawing some wild conclusions saying nearly half of Dr strings have issues.

Hell Dr strings are nearly ubiquitous at this point

 

[WG Plum]

I crimp before cutting every time. It's habit now.

 

[Kipp Harrington]

I do know that DR claims to NEVER stretch their strings. They claim they don't need stretched and that any quality string shouldn't need stretched. I think that's hogwash, however. I use Pressurewounds on my J basses, Chromes on my P and EB Cobalt Flats on my PJ. Tried DR High Beams on my J... too floppy for me. Sound was ok.

 

[OldSchoolFlats]

I've had 2 bass strings break in my life
One daddario
One ernie ball
Both b strings

I've been using Dr strings nearly exclusively for 20 years and have no issues

The post the op is referring had one guy with sweaty hands saying his strings went dead and then a few people who didn't crimp complaining about them unwinding, but op is drawing some wild conclusions saying nearly half of Dr strings have issues.

Hell Dr strings are nearly ubiquitous at this point

I was just checking, since I just read some concerns about DR, and I was about to use them. I bought them based on past positive reviews here, a couple of months back. Just installed them, with crimp. No issues.

I'm only a hobby player, and I have mostly used flats in the past. Only used DR strings once before (lo-riders), and that is one of the few roundwound sets I ever purchased (since '73) that did not come on a new bass.

 

[TigerInATrance]

I've never crimped DR strings and haven't had any problems. According to the directions in the box there is an anchor section that I found sits approximately where the silk would start and crimping is only necessary if you are cutting below that anchor.

That said, it certainly won't hurt anything to put a crisp 90 degree bend in it before you cut.

The one problem I have had with any string is it getting twisted, and it happens quite a bit. So much so that I check every time I install a set of strings... That can absolutely sound like a thin, dead string but it's a simple fix. Loosen the string until you can let the ball end rotate to it's natural inclination and then retune.

 

[michael_t]

According to the directions in the box there is an anchor section that I found sits approximately where the silk would start and crimping is only necessary if you are cutting below that anchor.

You're one of the few people who seem to understand this specific part of the crimping instruction.

 

[AboutSweetSue]

^^I have personally never reviewed the instructions, and I will not out. I will die on this hill^^

 

[3bc]

Round core strings I bend. Hex core I don’t. Although, from ‘94-‘08 I didn’t know anything about round vs hex core and just cut the string at the length needed. I NEVER had a string go bad on me then.

Same. I played bass for 25 years before I had a string go bad on me because if installation error. I bend them 100% of the time now. The one time it went bad was when restrung a bass an hour before a set, and the A string was immediately dead as a door nail upon installation. That sucked!

 

[hasbeen]

I will add that you really shouldn't stretch your string after installation.....that goes for any string. All you're doing is "pre-aging" your string and on a round core, worse.

If you install your strings correctly, a half our of playing will get them to settle in and stay in tune.

 

[OldSchoolFlats]

I will add that you really shouldn't stretch your string after installation.....that goes for any string. All you're doing is "pre-aging" your string and on a round core, worse.

If you install your strings correctly, a half our of playing will get them to settle in and stay in tune.

Maybe just a little pressing-down on the strings at both the nut and saddles to establish the "witness points"?

 

[jeffb28451]

I do all my strings that way and have not had any string problems in 40 years, other than occasional QC issues from manufacturers.

 

[JRA]

there is no reason that "you have to cut a string." most of the rituals described in the thread are to achieve a certain "look" (e.g., "three winds") of the string on the post.

i used to cut them. i was taught to do that by (at that time) more experienced players. when i'd ask "why?" they needed to be cut, the usual response was "so that there won't be any 'slippage' of the string on the post...and it looks better!" however, IME: although some strings, on some posts might "slip" a little bit at first = they all stop slipping as the string breaks in! i haven't discerned a bit of difference between cut and non-cut strings re: "slippage" after the string breaks in to a reliable tuning (maybe a few hours?).

also: there are some great advantages for not cutting a string!
- easier to re-use those strings on another ax --- especially if you're string/tone chasing.
- more wraps (above the post-nut string path!) helps to keep the string low (for the break angle purposes) on certain headstocks (e.g., FSOs).
- can eliminate the need for string trees and retainers on certain axes/headstocks.
- don't need tools to change a string!
- 'catastrophic' failure of a string is most likely to occur with a cut string! (e.g., the 'unwinding' failure).
- there might be others...

and it has been discussed before on TB --- here's a couple:
Do you guys cut your strings or use them whole???
Benefits or Lack thereof with Cutting Strings - Let's Talk

my point: it's a ritual with no real 'science' behind it. folks "cut" based mostly on heresay and tradition, but it's not necessary on most instruments, with most strings, in most situations. most folks do it for "looks."

FWIW: i'd cut any string if i thought it would suit my purpose(s) better.

 

[TinIndian]

I've tried other strings over the last 10 years and there are several I found that I like quite a bit but DR's are my preferred string. I like High Beams. I like the Stainless and the slightly more flexible round core. With my sweaty hands I get around 3 months out of a set which is excellent for me. And I always put a crimp in my strings before I cut them and I usually make the cut nearly 1/2" down from the 90 degree bend.

I have come to a belief that strings are sensitive to body chemistry. What works well for one person won't work for another necessarily. For instance GHS Boomers I cant get a week out of them. I've tried them a couple times with the same result. Other people swear by them and talk to how long of life they can get out of them. So I think if you come across a set of strings that work well sound good and last, run with em'. If you try a set that just doesn't hold up for you then try something else. And remember even if they dont work for you there are lots of people that they do work well for so Don't beat someone up for liking them!