• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

DR with Warwick

I wouldn't try Hibeams, a bit too bright.
good luck


If you read my post above you'll notice I already bought the Hi-beams and found that I'd like them to be even brighter. I think that I need a really bright string on my Warwick because of the pick-up config I use. The $$ corvette has switches that change both pu's between humbucking in series, single coil, and humbucking in parallel. I like to have both pu's in parallel because of the deep bottom and extra output that it gives but that seems to hurt my highs a bit. Because of this I like really bright strings but my tone doesn't end up being bright at all.
 
i have dr high beams on my warwick corvette. and i love them. put them on the bass the first day i had it, took off those poopy "black label" strings.

i play four strings.. .so .45-.105. the only problem is they have short life, i have to change mine about once every 3-4 weeks.
 
If you read my post above you'll notice I already bought the Hi-beams and found that I'd like them to be even brighter. I think that I need a really bright string on my Warwick because of the pick-up config I use. The $$ corvette has switches that change both pu's between humbucking in series, single coil, and humbucking in parallel. I like to have both pu's in parallel because of the deep bottom and extra output that it gives but that seems to hurt my highs a bit. Because of this I like really bright strings but my tone doesn't end up being bright at all.

that's cool man, I gues I meant no hi beams for me... I have a SSI 6 which is a very bright and puchy instrument naturally.
it's great that works for you though.
good luck;)
 
So, I've been trying a couple of sets.

I was sold on the Zon UltraSonics for their nice midrange. But I gave a try to the Lo-Riders (not Nickel) which had been on a couple of my other basses... They sound pretty well on the Warwick.
I think they tame well the Warwick wood and the aggressiveness of the PUs. I'm gonna keep they for a while and see how they age.

BTW, I am mainly recording with that bass, it's a champ, especially iin passive mode!
 
I want to try DR strings with my Corvette 5 string $$. Any Warwick owners using DR's? What kind do you use and what do you like about them? I'm leaning towards the Hi-beams. I'm also wondering, if I get the .130 gauge B string, will it be tapered? The Warwick's want a tapered B-string.

DR's are great strings, but I lean more towards D'Addario's. I had a problem getting my B string to fit so I'm gonna try Warwick strings next round( some body please let me know if they suck?). BTW is any body having any battery issues w/ the corvette 5's, mine using batteries like crazy! Thanks!!
 
Yes, the end of the B string on the DR Lo-Riders is kinda thick (whether .125 or .130) and doesn't fit well in the string/ball holder on my Thumb. I had to force it in there... It is ok but if you're on the shy side, don't do it. :smug:

yeah i kinda had to force mine in to, and i didn't mind but i didn't like it much either. so any word on if the warick strings and any good? heard bout any battery probs? holla!!:D
 
yeah i kinda had to force mine in to, and i didn't mind but i didn't like it much either. so any word on if the warick strings and any good? heard bout any battery probs? holla!!:D

I widened the string saddle slot on the 'B' string of my Streamer LX5 based on Invalid Link Removed on the Warwick site. Worked like a charm though I've become a big fan of the taper-core 'B' string.

I've also used Warwick's own strings and they seem to compliment their basses well in terms of bringing out the growl and grindiness. I prefer a bit more bottom in my sound and have found Hi-Beams and FatBeams to work well for that.

MTD also makes taper-core 'B' strings and you can get a set from the Perfect Bass with a .135 'B', though I think all MTD strings are designed for 35" scale basses and you might have issues at the other end trying to wrap the string around the tuners.

Dean Markley and Ken Smith both make a SS taper core 5-string set. With the Dean Markley's you can get a .127 low 'B' and Ken Smith offers a .130. I didn't check to see which used a round core (like Hi-Beams) and which used a hex-core (like Lo-Riders) so you might want to dig more deeply into the online resources.

RSJ4STRING - I'm going to start with a few simple questions and it may sound like I'm insulting your intelligence, but bear with me, this is just basic diagnostic stuff.

1. Do you leave your bass plugged in for long periods of time?
2. If so, do you leave the bass set in active mode?
3. How often are you changing the battery?
4. How much are you playing?

Thanks,
J.
 
I have a corvette $$ 4 string, but ive played in low tunings and used the 125 low b. the b is hard to fit into the saddle. the high beams are pretty flexible, good for if your playing in standard tuning but in lower tunings its kind of hard to play, the strings sometimes dont flick off of my fingers and get stuck. but they are great sounding strings, im gonna go towards lo riders in a week, my hi-beams are dead now , 3.5 months for life btw,
 
I widened the string saddle slot on the 'B' string of my Streamer LX5 based on Invalid Link Removed on the Warwick site. Worked like a charm though I've become a big fan of the taper-core 'B' string.

I've also used Warwick's own strings and they seem to compliment their basses well in terms of bringing out the growl and grindiness. I prefer a bit more bottom in my sound and have found Hi-Beams and FatBeams to work well for that.

MTD also makes taper-core 'B' strings and you can get a set from the Perfect Bass with a .135 'B', though I think all MTD strings are designed for 35" scale basses and you might have issues at the other end trying to wrap the string around the tuners.

Dean Markley and Ken Smith both make a SS taper core 5-string set. With the Dean Markley's you can get a .127 low 'B' and Ken Smith offers a .130. I didn't check to see which used a round core (like Hi-Beams) and which used a hex-core (like Lo-Riders) so you might want to dig more deeply into the online resources.

RSJ4STRING - I'm going to start with a few simple questions and it may sound like I'm insulting your intelligence, but bear with me, this is just basic diagnostic stuff.

1. Do you leave your bass plugged in for long periods of time?
2. If so, do you leave the bass set in active mode?
3. How often are you changing the battery?
4. How much are you playing?

Thanks,
J.

1. no
2.it's unplugged but stays in active mode
3. about every 30 to 90 days
4. about twice a week in church
no offence taken!! thanks for the help!!!:D
 
I stuck some DR Highbeams on my 4 banger Corvette and it brought that bass back to life. I had a set of Red Devils on there and they were a joke. They sounded dead the moment I stuck them on. I put that bass in the corner and barely played it until I stuck the Highbeams on. Now it's my #1 bass. I play it at church and at band rehearsal. I have used the Highbeams on my 5'er but it's a Tobias and I think they were taperwound. They were ok but I liked them better on the Warwick. I use Sadowsky Stainless Steels on my Tobias since it's a 34 scale and I need a hexcore string for the B to be tight. I think I'm going to try the Highbeams on my Lakland when I get it back from the shop.
 
Just a quick tip about widening the B saddle for non-tapered strings. Warwick now sell parts on their website, including saddle pieces. So if you fancy taking a file to your instrument and cock it up, you can get replacement saddles.

Or if you're too scared, get a couple of replacement saddles first and file them instead.
 
Hey all...we have recommended quite frequently using the LONG NECKS on 5 strings Warwicks as the tapered end will work nicely with their types of bridge set-ups.
Or if you wish, you could custom order a regular HI BEAM or LO RIDER 4 string with a tapered B. Many US retailers order them from us like that, and we consider it a 'custom' set, though we don't charge any extra for doing that.
Hope that helps.
Anthony
 
I swapped the stock Black Labels for Hi-beams which worked great for finger style and then I went to Lo-Riders when I started playing with a pick more.

Both strings are great and sound awesome. I love the hi-fi sound they have. They really bring out the mids and make the A and D strings super-growly with the E string having great punch.
 
It's really funny that this thread was resurrected because I was just checking back on it today. So I guess the Hi-beams worked out well but they are dead now. From this thread I can see I put them on in December so they lasted a good two months for me. The only thing I would complain about is that when they die, they really die. It's sort of a sudden change rather then a gradual one and I really don't like the sound of the dead strings. With other brands I could sort of live with the dead sound.

I really wanted to try the Hi-beams because of the round core. I think for my next set I'm going to try Lo-riders or Long necks. I think the round core strings would be better suited to a bass more like a Fender. I definitely liked the hi-beams but I wouldn't mind the additional stiffness that the hex-core strings promise and I really miss my tapered B string.
 

Latest posts