Drop A on a 34" scale 5 string?

[*ToNeS*]

Hey ya. I have a 34" scale 5-string and I play exclusively in drop A (for my harder stuff). Think a somewhat heavier gauge than 'standard' here. I'm a pickstyle player like you, so this is essential even if it's nastier to play on. Also if your bass's bridge allows it, string your low A string through the body at the bridge, not on the saddles. It's the only string you'll likely want to do this for, and will help with clarity and sustain at that kind of tuning.

 

[levis76]

Try adjusting your pick hand position a bit closer to the bridge. The string will feel like it has more tension the closer to the bridge you are. You also may have to soften up your attack on that lower string to keep things from getting too sloppy and floppy.

Stepping up in gauge is also a fine idea, but too big and you just might need to modify the bridge and nut to fit it if it’s too big. Don’t know what style bridge that bass has, but if isn’t a top load then the larger gauge may or may not fit thru the retaining hole in the bridge.

Another possible option is to step the other string gauges down, make them a bit lighter while leaving the B where it is. Never tried this on five string, but I did it with a 4 string I was detuning to drop C (C G C F), it made the strings feel a bit more even across the board. I used a fatter low string with a light gauge set.

EDIT: Keep in mind that most of these changes are enough to warrant checking the relief of the neck. Bass necks require quite a bit more relief than guitars, esp when detuning. Raising the action a bit and adding some relief may solve all of your problems.

 

[rutrho]

Low A or B doesn't have to shake everyone to death - done right, it provides a nice, authoritative "weight" to the mix. It works in any genre - metal would definitely benefit from it. I don't know where this idea that really low bass is bad ever got started - done right, it's a glorious thing.

yep, totally with ya on that!!

 

[Element Zero]

I don't know where this idea that really low bass is bad ever got started

It stemmed from the hurr durr 4 strings only people and anything lower is just mud. Mostly it’s from people who refuse to experiment beyond what they like. I feel bad for those people.

 

[flyingfinbar]

You’ll be fine, dude...don’t overthink it, and definitely don’t be put off by those in here who simply can’t fathom why someone would tune differently than they do.

Any set of 45-125 or 45-130 strings will be fine. Something with a hex core will, by design, give you more tension, if that’s what you’re looking for. Go steel if you like brightness, nickel if you want a slightly warmer tone when they break in.

 

[Nephilymbass]

I recently picked up a Yamaha TRBX505. I want to tune it to drop A (AEADGBE), but after doing some research I'm not sure if I can detune and maintain a comfortable amount of tension on the low B string. I was unaware until recently that it's more common to use a longer scale like 35" with a thicker string gauge like .140+. The bass came strung with a .130. I really like this bass and i'd like to continue to use it. I know saying "comfortable" is subjective, but it's definitely very loose and wobbly sounding with a .130. I'm not sure how thick a string it will support till it needs to be modified and i think i'd rather save myself the trouble and pick up a longer scale instead.

I'm clearly not the most knowledgeable on the subject and i'm just looking for some information and advice on what to do. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I use drop a tuning for about half of my original bands material. Id recommend using the smallest gauge string you can get away with. That might be a 135 but it could also be a 140 or even a 145 on 34” scale for low A. On my Dingwall which has a 37” low b I actually don’t mind using a .135 but on my 34” fender if I more than just my backup I would go ahead and put a .145 on it. Keep in mind the string gauge isn’t the only thing that makes a string feel a certain way. Flatwounds can feel really tight and stiff for example. And bass strings can have different size and shape (round or hex shape) core wires and this also makes a difference. In how the string feels.

As for mods to fit a big string it’s kind of a roll of the dice. Wether the nut needs to be filed to fit the bigger string and have the proper nut action really just depends on how the nut was original cut from factory and how big of gauge change you’re making. I’ve had some basses where I’d had to tweak the nut and others where I didn’t. On the bridge end with top loading bridges like the ones hipshot makes you don’t need to modify the bridge at all. If it’s a vintage style bridge where the string goes through a hole in the back of the bridge you may need to drill the hole out a little to allow the bigger string to pass through but be very careful you don’t go crazy and drill a hole too big where the ball end of the string can go through the hole. Of course the bass will always need to be setup (action/intonation) when there’s change in string gauges.

 

[drumvsbass]

No disrespect is meant by the following, and you can very likely do what you are seeking to do.

I wonder, why is low A so musically important? What is the musical context? It's OK. I don't think it is wrong or impractical. It's music.

...don't forget to first try A1 instead of A0 in the passage at hand. It might sound better than A0. All in my humble opinion.

----------
I'm sure you know this, but, It's totally a metal context thing, '...and lo, in the great rule book of heavy metal it is decreed that the bass shalt always chugg and octave below the rhythm guitars, no matter how low they shalt chuggeth'. So if the bass was playing A1 it would be doubling the guitar in the same octave if the guitarist is using drop low A on a 7 string*, so to beef it up, the bassist buys a telephone cable for a string, and a much bigger amp. Pretty mushy on it's own, but in context of doubling a low chuggy djent line (which is usually the case) I'd go so far as to say it's necessary. *(we could talk about why do guitarists need 7, 8, or 9 strings (it's because they want to be bass players**))

An illuminating thing happened when I heard a particular metal bands unmastered stem files. With everything up it sounded enormous, crushing, clear and fat. But when soloed the drums sounded like clicky plastic tubs, the guitars sounded like mosquitoes, and the bass sounded like very energetic, yet undefined distorted barf. The bass in particular though, with the whole mix up, sounded incredible. The difference was astonishing.

So really, it's just heavy metal noize for the girls and boys.

**Also I think the low A thing on a 7 string guitar is to get that nice chuggy power chord thing like 'traditional' drop D.
Drop 8 string is kinda cool as you get a drop E power chord on the bottom.
Now go find a bass string for tha... DROP ZONE & DROP ZONE PLUS | ROTOSOUND

 

[jonesn4bass]

+1 for Kalium.

As many have said, just go to Kalium and order a set of balanced strings for your desired tuning. They will be bigger than your used to. It will take filing the nut to do the first setup. However, once you go through the initial install, subsequent string changes will be a breeze and the bass will play with proper tension like a standard tuned 5 string. I play in A# and use a .155 gauge low string. Works like a charm!

 

[mmmmmmmmm]

Sure, the purists might scoff at me for this, but...I drop my B string to A all the time on a standard scale 5 string with standard gauge strings, and it works just fine, honestly. You just need to learn how to play with it a little gentler. Not the best solution by any means but it is super easy and can be done...

 

[Adhesive_X]

I like the kalium .150 for a 34" low A. I think i'm going to go one gauge thicker on my warwick.
.150 is as big as I can go in a stock EBMM bridge.

 

[DECEMBER]

I've got a Yamaha TRBX505 on the way and I also want to drop-A. What is the thickest gauge string anyone's been able to fit in their 5 string without having to file out the nut?
The Kalium string tension calculator shows that, for a low A to have comparable tension to a B at .130, it should be a .148.
I'd prefer to not have to void the warranty immediately by filing the nut to accommodate the heavier string, and I don't want to spend money on several size strings before finding what fits, so it would help to get some feedback on what is the thickest string you've been able to fit without filing the nut.
Thank you!