DUNLOP SUPER BRIGHT NICKELS

[Solarmist]

On the bending thing, theoretically and based on my own experiences, they are the contrary.

Theoretically, smaller hex core of the Super brights would be easier to bend than the Pro-Steels, which to my knowledge use the same (normal/larger than Super Brights') core wires as the XL Nickels (which IME are way stiffer than the Super Brights).

I'm just going on what my fingers are telling me, but on my next order - I'm going to order a set of the SB SS 45130T. Having a tapered 130T might be a game changer, and last time I ordered the SBs - there weren't any sets with a 130T. They do have a fantastic piano tone like no other, but I do like the Prosteel balanced tension sets EPS300 & 300-5 with 43-63-85T-107T-127T.

 

[gzarruk]

I'm just going on what my fingers are telling me, but on my next order - I'm going to order a set of the SB SS 45130T. Having a tapered 130T might be a game changer, and last time I ordered the SBs - there weren't any sets with a 130T. They do have a fantastic piano tone like no other, but I do like the Prosteel balanced tension sets EPS300 & 300-5 with 43-63-85T-107T-127T.

What would be the benefits of he tapered B string?

 

[Solarmist]

What would be the benefits of he tapered B string?

I think they sustain a tad better than non tapered due to the smaller diameter wire crossing the saddle allowing it to vibrate more freely, but there are varying viewpoints on the subject.

Effect of tapered strings?

 

[Aidil]

I'm just going on what my fingers are telling me, but on my next order - I'm going to order a set of the SB SS 45130T. Having a tapered 130T might be a game changer, and last time I ordered the SBs - there weren't any sets with a 130T. They do have a fantastic piano tone like no other, but I do like the Prosteel balanced tension sets EPS300 & 300-5 with 43-63-85T-107T-127T.

Unless you are going to string it thru-body, I wouldn't recommend the SB 130T tapered string. The length from ball end to taper is 2.25", which is too long for most top load bridge. I've installed one on my BTB. Two problems:
First, I couldn't set the intonation correctly: though the saddle has maxed far back, it's still sharp on the 12th fretted note (and above).
Second, it's sometime weird on my plucking fingers when playing on top of the bridge pickup to near the bridge, cause sometime the plucking fingers would hit right on the taper.

 

[Solarmist]

Unless you are going to string it thru-body, I wouldn't recommend the SB 130T tapered string. The length from ball end to taper is 2.25", which is too long for most top load bridge. I've installed one on my BTB. Two problems:
First, I couldn't set the intonation correctly: though the saddle has maxed far back, it's still sharp on the 12th fretted note (and above).
Second, it's sometime weird on my plucking fingers when playing on top of the bridge pickup to near the bridge, cause sometime the plucking fingers would hit right on the taper.

The taper length on the D'Add strings are 2 1/2" from ball to the end of the taper, and I didn't notice any problem with intonation on my SR600 tuned BEAD. You do have to raise the saddle to account for the slight drop due to the configuration of the string. One thing I don't like is how my Polytune II won't lock on the signal right away, but then again - B strings are a little trickier to get perfect.

 

[michael_t]

I think they sustain a tad better than non tapered due to the smaller diameter wire crossing the saddle allowing it to vibrate more freely, but there are varying viewpoints on the subject.

I discovered the benefit of a tapered/exposed core B string in the last six months. I had tried a handful of non-tapered B strings (126/128/130) on my 34" scale Yamaha before trying the GHS Progressive 130B with an exposed core, which turned out to be a game-changer for me. The low B all of a sudden opened right up with better clarity, definition and sustain. The exposed core did make a positive difference for me personally.

I've just put a brand new set of GHS Pressurewounds (40-54-76-96) on the Yamaha, but kept the Progressive 130B, which seems to match up nicely with the PWs both in tone and feel.

 

[Solarmist]

The low B all of a sudden opened right up with better clarity, definition and sustain. The exposed core did make a positive difference for me personally.

That's pretty much what I found as well - it just sounded a little clearer, and rang a little longer so I'm sold on taper wounds.

 

[Aidil]

The taper length on the D'Add strings are 2 1/2" from ball to the end of the taper, and I didn't notice any problem with intonation on my SR600 tuned BEAD. You do have to raise the saddle to account for the slight drop due to the configuration of the string. One thing I don't like is how my Polytune II won't lock on the signal right away, but then again - B strings are a little trickier to get perfect.

It depends on where you start and end the measurement.

The SB taper length is 2.25" when measured from right after the ball end until the point where the taper started. It is 2.5" when measured from right after the ball end until the point where the taper ended. And if I were to include the ball end with the last measurement, it will be about 3".

So, SB taper length is still longer than D'A.

I'm well aware the need to raise the saddle when changing from non-tapered to tapered string. I've been using numerous tapered (as well as exposed core) strings for years.

 

[JimmyM]

That's pretty much what I found as well - it just sounded a little clearer, and rang a little longer so I'm sold on taper wounds.

I accomplished that by switching from a 130 B to a 120 B, but if you don't want to give up your favorite gauges, taperwound B is a good idea, eh?

BTW, I'm not in that category. No way I want to go back to a 130 B!

 

[Aidil]

I accomplished that by switching from a 130 B to a 120 B, but if you don't want to give up your favorite gauges, taperwound B is a good idea, eh?

BTW, I'm not in that category. No way I want to go back to a 130 B!

I'm with you on this.

Reason why I ordered the SB tapered 130T was because I had always preferred tapered strings from past experiences (with exception Rotosound .175T which also had too long of the taper length), as mentioned above, they rang clearer and most important, I found out that I could set their intonation correctly where previous non-taper strings had problem, until... I switched most of my bass strings to SB.

I used SB .125 before and now I prefer SB .120 low-B. Non of these are tapered.

 

[JimmyM]

I'm with you on this.

Reason why I ordered the SB tapered 130T was because I had always preferred tapered strings from past experiences (with exception Rotosound .175T which also had too long of the taper length), as mentioned above, they rang clearer and most important, I found out that I could set their intonation correctly where previous non-taper strings had problem, until... I switched most of my bass strings to SB.

I used SB .125 before and now I prefer SB .120 low-B. Non of these are tapered.

Ya, I don't do tapered. I tried it once and hated it. Sliced right through the taper in short order. These days since I'm not doing as many windmills and punk rock picking as I used to, I could probably deal with it but nah.

 

[Solarmist]

It depends on where you start and end the measurement.

The SB taper length is 2.25" when measured from right after the ball end until the point where the taper started. It is 2.5" when measured from right after the ball end until the point where the taper ended. And if I were to include the ball end with the last measurement, it will be about 3".

So, SB taper length is still longer than D'A.

Measuring from the inside of the ball like your picture showed - I get 2 1/4".

 

[Aidil]

Measuring from the inside of the ball like your picture showed - I get 2 1/4".

My point is, Dunlop SB low-B taper length is way longer than D'Addario's. I would only recommend it for thru body stringing.

 

[Solarmist]

My point is, Dunlop SB low-B taper length is way longer than D'Addario's. I would only recommend it for thru body stringing.

Here's a pic of a used Prosteel 127T, and I put masking tape around where the taper stops (because I can't see all that great), and it shows 2 1/4" the same way you measured yours, but if you're hitting the taper while playing that could be a problem. I'm never playing that close to the bridge so it's OK for me.

 

[Bassometer]

I used Dunlop Super Brite Nickels on my 35" scale basses; I loved the tone. They age well, almost as if they take on a different character when they age. I always struggled with the tension, I found them to be a little too loose. I play 99% finger style and sometimes dig in, the lower tension does not suit this style (well not for me anyways). I wish they made a stiffer version, they would be a gem.

Unfortunately I couldn't use them on my 34" basses. I am pretty sure they would be fine if I didn't dig in so much but thats the way I play.

 

[Ryno1330]

Does anyone know the difference between the Super Brites and the Marcus Miller Super Brites?

 

[mmbongo]

A long taper will cause intonation issues and a 'warbling' or 'chorusy' sounding B string. The taper ideally should barely clear the saddle. Personally I prefer non-tapered strings because of those issues and I only use them when a bass has a poorly designed bridge that won't fit a full sized B string in the slot.

 

[JimmyM]

Does anyone know the difference between the Super Brites and the Marcus Miller Super Brites?

Difference between the regular steels and Marcus Millers...they're Marcus' pet gauges and made to be tighter than the regular steels.

Difference between nickels and steels...nickels have more mids and are a little less ringy than steels.

 

[Ryno1330]

Difference between the regular steels and Marcus Millers...they're Marcus' pet gauges and made to be tighter than the regular steels.

Difference between nickels and steels...nickels have more mids and are a little less ringy than steels.

Thanks. I should've specified stainless steel for both. They're both the same guages also (45-65-85-105) so I wondered what the difference between them is. I just tried the MM ss set on a whim and I really like them and the regular ss super brites are $5 cheaper a set. I should probably just try them and see

 

[michael_t]

They're both the same guages also (45-65-85-105) so I wondered what the difference between them is.

The MM's have a slightly thicker core wire, making them stiffer-feeling than the regular Super Bright Stainless Steels.