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Dunwich Amplification General Discussion

#5,521
Look at this bad boy: https://reverb.com/item/83457310-du...fter-built-by-dunn-effects-2021-bare-aluminum

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#5,523
I've ;been using a Bass Overdriver for years. it's one of my all time faves. I liked it more than the Wizard Fuzz or the Volt Thrower (I know, very different types of pedals). I'm in the process of reorganizing my overly complicated pedal board, and I'm trying to find information about the voltage. I know some of the Magic (Dunwich) pedals can accept up to 18 volts, but not all of them. Is the Overdriver (last iteration) able to run at 18 volts? Or do I have to keep running it at 9?
 
#5,524
psychovox said:
I've ;been using a Bass Overdriver for years. it's one of my all time faves. I liked it more than the Wizard Fuzz or the Volt Thrower (I know, very different types of pedals). I'm in the process of reorganizing my overly complicated pedal board, and I'm trying to find information about the voltage. I know some of the Magic (Dunwich) pedals can accept up to 18 volts, but not all of them. Is the Overdriver (last iteration) able to run at 18 volts? Or do I have to keep running it at 9?
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I run my BOD at 18 volts. That being said, I'm not sure if there were any changes to the "last iteration".
 
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#5,533
No more HM-2s, no more HM-2s, no more HM-2s...

Any idea how the Modified HM-2 compares to the Earthbound Audio Throat Locust, Arion Metal Master, or the Bear Amps Heavier Metal?

The Heavier Metal sounds disappointing out of the mix, but absolutely nails it in the mix. It's the best bass HM-2 I've ever played. The Metal Master is close, but a bit less commanding in the mix, and more distorted sounding out of the mix. And the Throat Locust sounds amazing out of the mix, but loses some authority in the mix. Still, all are excellent HM-2s. And once again, I NEED to get my DIY HM-2 fixed up!
 
#5,534
Alright, figure you fine folks would know here - I took a gutshot of my DIY HM-2. (I did NOT build this!) But it seems that my "problem" of having the treble knob do literally nothing (it was that or the mids knob, been a while...) isn't so much a problem as the builder didn't actually build the circuit properly, and still gave it a 3 band EQ as far as knobs go. You can see the "split" section on the board is empty. Can anyone tell if it's literally as easy as just soldering in the correct part there? What do I need to do to fix this thing? Even I can solder a single component in place, as I proved years ago with the single cap mod to my Pork Loin. So what's the story - do I need a single cap or something? I've also linked a build page, but it seems that board may be slightly different - the wording written on the PCB itself in the top right corner is slightly different. I'm not familiar enough with electronics to see if anything else has changed, though. Here's the link. The gutshot picture is attached.

Thanks in advance, all!
 

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#5,536
davelowell2 said:
Do you have the build documents? It seems like there's a choice to split the high and mid knobs or use them together on one knob… that might make one knob non functioning.
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The link has build documents on that page, and yes, I believe you are correct about the option of splitting the mids. I think that's what happened - they used all the knobs and filled the holes, but didn't actually split the signal into a 3 band EQ. Hence, one of my knobs literally doing nothing. The parts list shows "jumper" as the part in the "split" portion. I'm an absolute newbie at this, though, so I'm making sure I understand this correctly, and I don't know what "jumper" means, or if it's more than just plugging that hole.
 
#5,537
If you want a jumper there, just solder a wire with each end in a hole. You can use other things, too, like a resistor leg. If you don't like it you can just cut it to break the connection.
 

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