• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Duratex (paint on coatings) VS Tolex covering.

#2
If you want a vintage style go with the vinyl.

Duratex is a lot easier. Small volume evaluation kits are available so it is cost effective. Way less expensive than vinyl and an adhesive. If you buy white, it can be tinted to any color at a paint store. If you have some left over, ding touchups are easy.

Both require proper wood prep. Both require some skill to apply well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: HuxLux, jazzbass_5 and Bugeyed Earl
#4
I use Duratex for one big reason. It can easily be repaired and touched up. Even a big gash---fill with Bondo, sand and Duratex. With Tolex---maybe you can fix a small clean tear, but anything bigger---new Tolex all around.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kro and jazzbass_5
#8
Herculiner and other 2 part catalyzed coating systems are far superior to Duratex, but also much more expensive to apply and clean up after.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Joedog
#10
I have a massive appreciation for the bed-liner coatings, though I've learned to love Duratex for its easy touch-ups. A big enough blow or just the right amount of force applied in just the right way to the liners can crack the liner over top of the softer wood underneath and make a mess of things despite it being much more resistant to abuse in general. I like to call it the Klondike effect.

Tolex is a distant third behind those in my book. Just my 2c.
 
#12
beans-on-toast said:
If you want a vintage style go with the vinyl.

Duratex is a lot easier. Small volume evaluation kits are available so it is cost effective. Way less expensive than vinyl and an adhesive. If you buy white, it can be tinted to any color at a paint store. If you have some left over, ding touchups are easy.

Both require proper wood prep. Both require some skill to apply well.
Click to expand...
Good afternoon. White CAN NOT be tinted to any color. White does lighter colors such as pastels. (sun yellow vs safety yellow) Dark/bright colors are tinted from Duratex Ultra Deep. Have a great day!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gaolee, wave rider, beans-on-toast and 2 others
#13
jazzbass_5 said:
I'm getting ready to cover a cabinet and I would like to hear your opinions on the pros and cons of Duratex type liquid covers versus a sheet type covering.
I've searched the forms here and have seen both styles I just want to hear your opinions between the two. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Hello jazzbass 5. If you go to Acrytech.com and search the tips and trick under the Duratex tab you will find instructions on how to get the leather look from Duratex and a plastic bag. I hope this helps you out. Have a great day.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BassikBrad, wave rider and BasturdBlaster
#15
Hey guys, project finished, it worked out very well!
20180429_185721.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: sleepy_monkey, beans-on-toast, Kro and 1 other person
#17
I first tried black Duratex on a rack that I built for the scrounged PA from hell. I have subsequently pounded the living bejeebers out of it, with minimal damage. You can cut through it if you try, but it doesn't happen like it does to tolex. As an experiment, I tried coating ductwork in the basement with white duratex during a project to finish parts of the basement into a music room and home office. Not only has it stuck to the galvanized ductwork just fine, it's stayed put, and looks practically brand new five years later. Because it worked so well, I coated some of the rest of the ductwork in the basement with the remainder of the gallon or whatever size it was that I had. I'm in the process of putting plywood on the ceiling to close things off and make the shop a brighter, cleaner place to be, and when that's done, the whole shebang will get coated with duratex. I almost have my wife convinced that I need to coat the walls in the stair down to the basement with it, too. I love this stuff. It doesn't stink when you apply it, and it is tough as nails. I'm sure there's tougher stuff out there, but for my purposes, duratex is plenty strong enough and the fact that it's water based means I don't have to worry about solvents and solvent smells in the house.
 
#18
Gaolee said:
I first tried black Duratex on a rack that I built for the scrounged PA from hell. I have subsequently pounded the living bejeebers out of it, with minimal damage. You can cut through it if you try, but it doesn't happen like it does to tolex. As an experiment, I tried coating ductwork in the basement with white duratex during a project to finish parts of the basement into a music room and home office. Not only has it stuck to the galvanized ductwork just fine, it's stayed put, and looks practically brand new five years later. Because it worked so well, I coated some of the rest of the ductwork in the basement with the remainder of the gallon or whatever size it was that I had. I'm in the process of putting plywood on the ceiling to close things off and make the shop a brighter, cleaner place to be, and when that's done, the whole shebang will get coated with duratex. I almost have my wife convinced that I need to coat the walls in the stair down to the basement with it, too. I love this stuff. It doesn't stink when you apply it, and it is tough as nails. I'm sure there's tougher stuff out there, but for my purposes, duratex is plenty strong enough and the fact that it's water based means I don't have to worry about solvents and solvent smells in the house.
Click to expand...
Dang me, I'm going to Duratex my new car this weekend !
 
  • Like
Reactions: agedhorse, Gaolee and ak56

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back