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ebanol

New technology? Just new to you. Ebanol boards have been around since at least the mid-70s. :hmm:

Well it's a newer technology than wood, humans have been using wood for tens of thousands of years, synthetics (i assume it's synthetic?) are no more than 100 years or so old.


more constructively, is there any way to tell a good one from a bad one? i imagine a bad batch of ebanol is harder to spot than a piece of wood with more the the desirred amout of personality?
 
I had a Cort Curbow, I live in NC and played a casual on a party boat on a lake in very high heat and humidity, the bass became completely unplayable mid first set, and I went to an all wood bass that was fine. Living where I live and playing gigs where I might play outdoors and an hour later in an air conditioned room, ebanol was not a good fretboard material. I sold it, but I did like the bass enough to upgrade the electronics with everything I could get.


Yes pretty well what happens to this SR300PWF, first two "fret" positions become unplayable. You can hear the strings damping out at various other notes across all strings. Going to persevere with this bass as my instinct tells me the truss is not doing its job as intended ie no real "pre load" against the string tension. What i also noticed was that in front of a gas convection heater, the Ebonol very quickly expanded from front heating while the rear layer remained cooler.

This had the effect of making the bass unplayable within a minute or less. The expanding front layer would arc the finger board backwards towards the neck wood and you could hear the notes damping out as it heated. Let cool down the notes returned.




Another "issue", the fretlines and dot markers are not uniform in height across the Ebonol finger board, dots are sunken and lines are ever so slightly raised. Like the idea of a lineless finger board, though what really is a nice trick for the audience ( other bass players... ) is having what looks like a fretted bass that sounds like a fretless! You need to get very close to the Ibby SR300F to see its a fretless.

Actualy smitten by fretless bass after 34 years of fretted, going to make some myself. One of the reasons the SR300 does not fuss me too much, can replace the bolt on neck worst case. Factored in just such a situation if i did not like the fretless ie turn it into a freted.

Thank you Bill** for the information and experience you had. Regards John
 
Yes pretty well what happens to this SR300PWF, first two "fret" positions become unplayable. You can hear the strings damping out at various other notes across all strings. Going to persevere with this bass as my instinct tells me the truss is not doing its job as intended ie no real "pre load" against the string tension. What i also noticed was that in front of a gas convection heater, the Ebonol very quickly expanded from front heating while the rear layer remained cooler.

This had the effect of making the bass unplayable within a minute or less. The expanding front layer would arc the finger board backwards towards the neck wood and you could hear the notes damping out as it heated. Let cool down the notes returned.




Another "issue", the fretlines and dot markers are not uniform in height across the Ebonol finger board, dots are sunken and lines are ever so slightly raised. Like the idea of a lineless finger board, though what really is a nice trick for the audience ( other bass players... ) is having what looks like a fretted bass that sounds like a fretless! You need to get very close to the Ibby SR300F to see its a fretless.

Actualy smitten by fretless bass after 34 years of fretted, going to make some myself. One of the reasons the SR300 does not fuss me too much, can replace the bolt on neck worst case. Factored in just such a situation if i did not like the fretless ie turn it into a freted.

Thank you Bill** for the information and experience you had. Regards John

It was a clarinetist who told me about the problems I was having. If you are playing in less than ideal conditions you want as few different materials involved as possible, due to the different expansion/contraction qualities of the materials. The Curbow was luthite, ebanol and wood. I had similar experiences with a Peavey G bass. To Peavey's credit they immediately sent me a new neck, no qustions asked. I don't think you have truss rod issues.

I'd keep the bass stable if you can by playing it in ideal conditions, which we probably all deal with more often than not.
 
Ok Billnc, all noted. You may be correct that the truss rod is not the problem, though my background is do all the easy things first, as if it is not the truss i have a real problem with the factory neck. It is a new bass however i brought it in from the USA so warranty is not an option, ie a new neck would be nice...like the way Peavy handles problems and limits them in the first place where possible. Regards John