EBMM StingRay Special Club

[Goatrope]

Does it sound like a StingRay 5H in that single H position ? Thats the question .

Well, when I had a 2015 5HH, with the switch in the solo bridge position, it was not what I expected. It just didn't have the same bite as my 4H, but maybe apples/oranges since my 4H was a much older 3-band.

I'm curious to hear about the current versions. Not that I want a 5HH, or 5H, I'd just like to hear other's impressions about a 5HH being similar to a 5H in that solo position.

 

[Tony G]

Does it sound like a StingRay 5H in that single H position ? Thats the question .

My answer is yes…. Mostly…. Almost….lol

 

[tonymcbony]

It totally does. I've gone back and forth with my Special 5HH from HH to H config.
I like the H because it removes options which helps my brain not get stuck in tinkerville.
But didn't matter if the neck H was there or not, switching to the Bridge H sounds like it should no matter the config. I strongly suspect the H sounds "better" due to the single pickup config forcing you to focus on hand placement and preamp controls for good tone.
Preamp and magnet type though, now those are where the tinkering is.

 

[PrimitiveMan]

Never heard any difference between the HH and H when bridge pickup in parallel was selected on the one I had (both Specials). The alnico HS bridge pickup did sound different though but was different pickup and preamp than the Special

 

[Barticus]

Does it sound like a StingRay 5H in that single H position ? Thats the question .

It does sound like a stingray, but I’d prefer it to be the solo’d Series sound vs Parallel.

I’m not happy with the setup at this point, with the saddles bottomed out and neck nearly flat it’s still too high for my liking. I’ve not had time to get it on the bench to figure out why, but wil this week.

I didn’t feel like the setup was good enough last night so I didn’t take it to the show and ended up dropping back to my 5H. I have plenty of shows coming up, so there will be opportunities to get this thing out into the wild for sure.

 

[Nebadon2000]

Maybe need a Shim?

I know many will say Jeez a 3K Bass and left Factory needing a shim

But EB factory setup specs are I believe 7/64 on B 6/64 on E and 5/64 on G

This may be higher than you want but met EB specs when left

 

[Geri O]

Arrgghh!!!!

(This is more of a vent than anything….)

So last night, we are rolling through our set with my country artist and all is great.

But halfway into the show. I notice the E string pretty out of tune. Flat. And I notice a bunch of clanking as I play the E string.

I looked down at the strings. Whoa! The E string is sitting lower than the other strings. I look at the E bridge saddle. Sure enough, one side of the E saddle has worked its way down again, sitting diagonally. That saddle screw moving on its own really is a thing with these new SS bridges.

I had my handy Ernie Ball Guitar Toolkit with me, so I was able to readjust the E saddle and continue on.

Okay, I know what I gotta do. I’m riding back home now (noooo, I’m not driving!….), I’ll have 4 hours or so before a rehearsal at church this afternoon for the Christmas Eve service.

My plan is to remove the saddle screw, coat it with blue Loctite, wipe off the excess, and let it dry. Then I’ll reinsert the saddle screw and set it to height. My thinking is that the little bit of Loctite residue will offer a tiny bit of resistance and not move so easily. Here’s hoping….

On the up side, 3 other band member used their in-ear monitors for the first time last night. At the end of the show, they all commented on my bass tone very positively and before anything else.

Of course, I’ve been on IEMs for 15 years, so I already knew this..

 

[PrimitiveMan]

Arrgghh!!!!

(This is more of a vent than anything….)

So last night, we are rolling through our set with my country artist and all is great.

But halfway into the show. I notice the E string pretty out of tune. Flat. And I notice a bunch of clanking as I play the E string.

I looked down at the strings. Whoa! The E string is sitting lower than the other strings. I look at the E bridge saddle. Sure enough, one side of the E saddle has worked its way down again, sitting diagonally. That saddle screw moving on its own really is a thing with these new SS bridges.

I had my handy Ernie Ball Guitar Toolkit with me, so I was able to readjust the E saddle and continue on.

Okay, I know what I gotta do. I’m riding back home now (noooo, I’m not driving!….), I’ll have 4 hours or so before a rehearsal at church this afternoon for the Christmas Eve service.

My plan is to remove the saddle screw, coat it with blue Loctite, wipe off the excess, and let it dry. Then I’ll reinsert the saddle screw and set it to height. My thinking is that the little bit of Loctite residue will offer a tiny bit of resistance and not move so easily. Here’s hoping….

On the up side, 3 other band member used their in-ear monitors for the first time last night. At the end of the show, they all commented on my bass tone very positively and before anything else.

Of course, I’ve been on IEMs for 15 years, so I already knew this..

That's frustrating, hope it gets sorted asap.

 

[Geri O]

That's frustrating, hope it gets sorted asap.

I’ll report on my “fix” attempts…

It’s hard to imagine actually needing to replace the bridge saddle, but if it comes to that, so be it.

 

[Goatrope]

Arrgghh!!!!

(This is more of a vent than anything….)

So last night, we are rolling through our set with my country artist and all is great.

But halfway into the show. I notice the E string pretty out of tune. Flat. And I notice a bunch of clanking as I play the E string.

I looked down at the strings. Whoa! The E string is sitting lower than the other strings. I look at the E bridge saddle. Sure enough, one side of the E saddle has worked its way down again, sitting diagonally. That saddle screw moving on its own really is a thing with these new SS bridges.

I had my handy Ernie Ball Guitar Toolkit with me, so I was able to readjust the E saddle and continue on.

Okay, I know what I gotta do. I’m riding back home now (noooo, I’m not driving!….), I’ll have 4 hours or so before a rehearsal at church this afternoon for the Christmas Eve service.

My plan is to remove the saddle screw, coat it with blue Loctite, wipe off the excess, and let it dry. Then I’ll reinsert the saddle screw and set it to height. My thinking is that the little bit of Loctite residue will offer a tiny bit of resistance and not move so easily. Here’s hoping….

On the up side, 3 other band member used their in-ear monitors for the first time last night. At the end of the show, they all commented on my bass tone very positively and before anything else.

Of course, I’ve been on IEMs for 15 years, so I already knew this..

Dang. Well, that blue loc-tite ought to do the trick. I had the same issue on a Jazz Bass and that solved it.

I've been watching mine and no unauthorized movement for 2 gigs and lots of off-line noodling.

I do have a weird intonation issue, but it's more likely due to a string anomaly. OEM strings were able to achieve perfect intonation, but after I put on my preferred Dunlop Super Bright Nickels, the A string played way more flat that all the others. The guage is a tad higher (45-105) than OEM, but it shouldn't matter.

This required the adjustment screw on the A string to be backed all the way out of the front of the barrel (hollow saddle), and only engaging the threads in the rear of the barrel.

It's stable after a day of noodling around, but I just dont like the way it looks. I'll probably just leave it be until the next string change.

 

[Barticus]

I’ll report on my “fix” attempts…

It’s hard to imagine actually needing to replace the bridge saddle, but if it comes to that, so be it.

Is it just the one saddle or is it all of them that are loose? I just checked mine on both basses and the screws are pretty tight. Mine from playing a four hour gig last night didn’t have any movement so I’m wondering if you just have a loose saddle?

I’m sure EBMM CS would just swap out for free. Loctite is certainly a great fix, but I’m wondering if that one saddle is just sloppy?

I like how the top of the screw holes are smaller than the screw themselves so they can’t come out the top only out the bottom.

 

[Geri O]

Is it just the one saddle or is it all of them that are loose? I just checked mine on both basses and the screws are pretty tight. Mine from playing a four hour gig last night didn’t have any movement so I’m wondering if you just have a loose saddle?

I’m sure EBMM CS would just swap out for free. Loctite is certainly a great fix, but I’m wondering if that one saddle is just sloppy?

I like how the top of the screw holes are smaller than the screw themselves so they can’t come out the top only out the bottom.

Yes, it’s only one screw that’s causing the heartburn…...

It’s on the E string saddle. The saddle screw on the down, or treble side of the saddle. The other screw doesn’t move at all on its own. It’s the good screw…..

 

[Barticus]

Yes, it’s only one screw that’s causing the heartburn…...

It’s on the E string saddle. The saddle screw on the down, or treble side of the saddle. The other screw doesn’t move at all on its own. It’s the good screw…..

Maybe use the Loctite and then move that saddle to one of the higher strings that sees maybe a little less usage?

 

[humbuckaroo]

I've solved issues like this just by swapping the screws around. It might be loose on one of those saddles and completely fine on another. Try that before you start operating on the instrument or replacing parts.

 

[Wood and Wire]

Dang. Well, that blue loc-tite ought to do the trick. I had the same issue on a Jazz Bass and that solved it.

I've been watching mine and no unauthorized movement for 2 gigs and lots of off-line noodling.

I do have a weird intonation issue, but it's more likely due to a string anomaly. OEM strings were able to achieve perfect intonation, but after I put on my preferred Dunlop Super Bright Nickels, the A string played way more flat that all the others. The guage is a tad higher (45-105) than OEM, but it shouldn't matter.

This required the adjustment screw on the A string to be backed all the way out of the front of the barrel (hollow saddle), and only engaging the threads in the rear of the barrel.

It's stable after a day of noodling around, but I just dont like the way it looks. I'll probably just leave it be until the next string change.
View attachment 7393506

Are you sure the screw is all the way home, at the back of the bridge?

If it were running out of thread like that, I'd expect the A-string saddle to be 1/4 of an inch out in front of the E & D saddles.

Are the screws all the same length?

 

[Geri O]

I've solved issues like this just by swapping the screws around. It might be loose on one of those saddles and completely fine on another. Try that before you start operating on the instrument or replacing parts.

This is, of course, sage advice and certainly advisable.

However, as busy as I am for the next several weeks and this SS is my main player, I’ve got to get this sorted out pretty soon.

So I will be “operating on the instrument” with the Loctite plan probably tomorrow.

And I’m gonna call Music Man customer service tomorrow and see what they say about this. No doubt they’ve heard about it and have ideas.

And looks like 3 more screws are showing signs of moving on their own. I must be playing the crap outta this bass!….

 

[Goatrope]

Are you sure the screw is all the way home, at the back of the bridge?

If it were running out of thread like that, I'd expect the A-string saddle to be 1/4 of an inch out in front of the E & D saddles.

Are the screws all the same length?

Great questions!

Yes, all the screws are "home", tight against the back of the bridge plate.

No, the screws on the E and A string appear to be about 1/10" shorter than the D and G screws.

Now that I see that, if needed I can always swap a longer screw over. Hopefully this is string related, and it sorts itself out next string change.

 

[Barticus]

Does it sound like a StingRay 5H in that single H position ? Thats the question .

Okay I took it to rehearsal today just so I could hear it in a band setting… first of all the band was like what the heck is that? so it was quite a hit with everyone in the room.

But then whoa, we started playing and it sounded excellent! Does it sound like a Stingray? yes in first position for sure… AND I can get just about every other classic sound from it as well.

It’s definitely different from the 5H, and it is a great sounding instrument across all five positions which are all totally usable for different types of tunes.

 

[Wood and Wire]

Great questions!

Yes, all the screws are "home", tight against the back of the bridge plate.

No, the screws on the E and A string appear to be about 1/10" shorter than the D and G screws.

Now that I see that, if needed I can always swap a longer screw over. Hopefully this is string related, and it sorts itself out next string change.

View attachment 7393883

Typically, when a bass is correctly intonated, the G saddle is wound out pretty far, and the rest fall back diagonally, each getting closer to the bridge in a pretty uniform way, with the E saddle closest to the back of the bridge.

That's why your E & A intonation screws are shorter (you could swap them around).

But for whatever reasons, it doesn't always turn out that way.

Maybe you have a hybrid gauge set of strings?

Maybe it's to do with the specifics of the climate where you are?

Maybe it's the colour of your socks?

Talking of which, bridge saddles are like feet : you expect the toes to conform to an orderly big to small / long to short scale, but sometimes you come across a freaky toe that either didn't get the memo, or has insurrectionist ambitions.

The saddles on my StingRay (medium/light gauge Rotosounds 66) follow the expected pattern of E being the longest string, G being the shortest, in a uniform diagonal sweep.

The saddles on my Precision (medium/heavy gauge NYXL) follow that typical pattern broadly speaking, from G to A, but the E saddle is miles further back than the rest - yet that's where it needs to be to intonate properly.

 

[tremor100]

Hey folks real quick, i know from searches that alot of people note its close or roughly similar..

But can anyone who has a Stingray Special with an SLO neck - and has a Sterling as well confirm that they are indeed the exact same carve?

Im considering against my better judgment to get a new bass - im thinking an SLO neck this time, but i want to feel it before i drop big cash and its unfavourable. I have a local used music store that has a few Sterlings from the 2000s in stock, if they are the exact same carve i can go check that out for an apples to apples.

Thanks!