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EBMM StingRay Special Club

Typically, when a bass is correctly intonated, the G saddle is wound out pretty far, and the rest fall back diagonally, each getting closer to the bridge in a pretty uniform way, with the E saddle closest to the back of the bridge.

That's why your E & A intonation screws are shorter (you could swap them around).

But for whatever reasons, it doesn't always turn out that way.

Maybe you have a hybrid gauge set of strings?

Maybe it's to do with the specifics of the climate where you are?

Maybe it's the colour of your socks?

Talking of which, bridge saddles are like feet : you expect the toes to conform to an orderly big to small / long to short scale, but sometimes you come across a freaky toe that either didn't get the memo, or has insurrectionist ambitions.

The saddles on my StingRay (medium/light gauge Rotosounds 66) follow the expected pattern of E being the longest string, G being the shortest, in a uniform diagonal sweep.

The saddles on my Precision (medium/heavy gauge NYXL) follow that typical pattern broadly speaking, from G to A, but the E saddle is miles further back than the rest - yet that's where it needs to be to intonate properly.
Must be my socks. 😂

Out of the box, with the OEM strings after setup,the saddles looked like this:
1000058697.jpg


I went up in guage to 45-65-85-105 and I ended up with the freaky toe A saddle. It wasn't a big change in guage, as I believe the OEM A was 80, but whatever. It plays fine. I did slacken it up to see if there might be a twist, but no.

I may swap another 85 A in there just to see if anything changes.🤔
 
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Hey folks real quick, i know from searches that alot of people note its close or roughly similar..

But can anyone who has a Stingray Special with an SLO neck - and has a Sterling as well confirm that they are indeed the exact same carve?

Im considering against my better judgment to get a new bass - im thinking an SLO neck this time, but i want to feel it before i drop big cash and its unfavourable. I have a local used music store that has a few Sterlings from the 2000s in stock, if they are the exact same carve i can go check that out for an apples to apples.

Thanks!
Are you asking about the EBMM Sterling (USA), or the import Sterling by Music Man? I have an EBMM Stingray Special 4HH with the SLO special neck, AND a Sterling by Music Man Singray 24ca. Both of mine are 1.5" nut width and both necks feel the same to me. Not sure if this helps or not.
 
Okay, today, I'm on a bit of a mission......😁.

I bought a Mono M80 case for my new (ish now) Stingray Special because the otherwise great EBMM Mono case doesn't have provisions for backstraps. I was thinking of holding on the MM case just cause, but now....

I'd like to buy a used hardshell MM case just to have. And I'd be will to trade my EBMM Mono soft case for an MM HSCase, if anyone is interested.
 
Are you asking about the EBMM Sterling (USA), or the import Sterling by Music Man? I have an EBMM Stingray Special 4HH with the SLO special neck, AND a Sterling by Music Man Singray 24ca. Both of mine are 1.5" nut width and both necks feel the same to me. Not sure if this helps or not.
Thank you!

Yes i meant the EBMM American Sterling model, not their budget brand. So in your opinion they are completely the same.

Aside from preference anything else i should know if you have felt the standard EBMM SRS vs the SLO neck i should consider?
 
Thank you!

Yes i meant the EBMM American Sterling model, not their budget brand. So in your opinion they are completely the same.

Aside from preference anything else i should know if you have felt the standard EBMM SRS vs the SLO neck i should consider?
I’ve never tried a USA Sterling so I can’t comment on that. But like I mentioned, the import Ray 24ca (that has the 1.5” nut) and my EBMM Stingray SLO special feel the same to me.

I used to have an EBMM Stingray Special 4HH with the stock neck, but I sold it once I got the Stingray 4HH with SLO special neck - I prefer the 1.5” nut width.
 
After going through the action on both basses, I think my general perception is that the lowest action will always be a slight bit higher than what I’d typically play… but that’s okay, and totally used to it at this point… I’ve played with the BFR a bit more and fine tuned the action and pretty happy at this point, it’s decently low and plays/sounds fantastic now.
IMG_6487.jpegIMG_6488.jpeg

Switch position 2, 4 and 1 are my favorite (most usable) in that order as I adjust from song to song in the material I’m covering.

So for my 4hr NYE gig, I’m still contemplating… do I play the Moonbeam or the Grape Crush?
Oh decisions, decisions 😃🎉🍾🎊🤷‍♂️
IMG_6512.jpegIMG_6511.jpeg
 
After going through the action on both basses, I think my general perception is that the lowest action will always be a slight bit higher than what I’d typically play… but that’s okay, and totally used to it at this point… I’ve played with the BFR a bit more and fine tuned the action and pretty happy at this point, it’s decently low and plays/sounds fantastic now.
View attachment 7394923View attachment 7394924

Switch position 2, 4 and 1 are my favorite (most usable) in that order as I adjust from song to song in the material I’m covering.

So for my 4hr NYE gig, I’m still contemplating… do I play the Moonbeam or the Grape Crush?
Oh decisions, decisions 😃🎉🍾🎊🤷‍♂️
View attachment 7394925View attachment 7394926
I’m glad I’m not alone on the action with my Specials. Definitely higher than my Spectors but doesn’t slow me down at all. Great basses and they work great so not going to overthink it.

Also, your BFR is absolutely stunning!
 
I’m glad I’m not alone on the action with my Specials. Definitely higher than my Spectors but doesn’t slow me down at all. Great basses and they work great so not going to overthink it.

Also, your BFR is absolutely stunning!
Yep, completely agree, you’re spot on. Higher than my Spector’s and definitely higher than my old Warwicks and my custom builds. It’s just part of their elegance and they play and sound great… great build quality and the colors/finishes are fantastic. Definitely gigging workhorses 😃

Thanks, the BFR is really stunning in person. The neck is also slightly thinner and a real joy to play as well. They did a great job on this one.
 
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After going through the action on both basses, I think my general perception is that the lowest action will always be a slight bit higher than what I’d typically play… but that’s okay, and totally used to it at this point… I’ve played with the BFR a bit more and fine tuned the action and pretty happy at this point, it’s decently low and plays/sounds fantastic now.
View attachment 7394923View attachment 7394924

Switch position 2, 4 and 1 are my favorite (most usable) in that order as I adjust from song to song in the material I’m covering.

So for my 4hr NYE gig, I’m still contemplating… do I play the Moonbeam or the Grape Crush?
Oh decisions, decisions 😃🎉🍾🎊🤷‍♂️
View attachment 7394925View attachment 7394926
Why not both? Have your audience drooling over those two purple beauties.
 
Guys, I just want to take a sec and express my appreciation for how the participants here conduct ourselves as civil adults. I won’t reference any other group or posts lest I be admonished for it by the uppers (a term of endearment, I promise….😁) for doing so…..

For some reason, I woke up in a most reflective mood this morning. It’s our first Christmas without our mother, who is in a much better place and hopefully getting good laughs at my feeble attempts at adulthood (which she probably knew all along….😁). So that makes for a bit of melancholy, no doubt. But on this Christmas Eve, I need to prepare for the services at our church this afternoon.

As well as prepare for the gigs coming up. And return a couple of messages about NYE gigs. And look at my calendar and work out the playing dates and sound company work over the next three months.

And at 67 years old, even!

And enjoying my new-ish by now Stingray Special. It’s positively one of the nicest basses I ever picked up and owned. I’ve so enjoyed making it my #1 player for all my gigs. And can you believe it? Not a scratch on it yet! I looked last night!….🥴😁

There’s no other group I’m aware of that enjoys the camaraderie we do here. I enjoy being a part of it. In my own 3-ring circus kinda way….🤣.

I’ve done the Loctite treatment on the bridge screws and I’ll update the group on how that works out.

So enough of this. Hoping and praying as you each see fit for a Happy Christmas season and a great 2026. No idea what’s coming, but it won’t be dull!….🤣

Take care, ya’ll….
 
So I’m doing some design work this morning and I needed a reference size for 9v batteries for the compartment I’m designing… so I grab my Special 5H and pop open the battery covers to discover… YES the Stingray has been shipped with Duracell 9v batteries!!

I know this seems silly, but I’ve received so many new instruments with el’cheapo 9v batteries instead of using decent batteries to start out with… so good on Ernie Ball for installing quality batteries from the start, this just raises my impression of them even higher… great company!
 
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So I’m doing some design work this morning and I needed a reference size for 9v batteries for the compartment I’m designing… so I grab my Special 5H and pop open the battery covers to discover… YES the Stingray has been shipped with Duracell 9v batteries!!

I know this seems silly, but I’ve received so many new instruments with el’cheapo 9v batteries instead of using decent batteries to start out with… so good on Ernie Ball for installing quality batteries from the start, this just raises my impression of them even higher… great company!
As I understand it, 9V batteries vary in physical size a bit. The compartments on the EBMMs are built around the size of the Duracell. Other brands may not be long enough to reliably make contact with the terminals (needs a shim in the back) , or may be a bit to wide to fit nicely into the compartment.
 
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As I understand it, 9V batteries vary in physical size a bit. The compartments on the EBMMs are built around the size of the Duracell. Other brands may not be long enough to reliably make contact with the terminals (needs a shim in the back) , or may be a bit to wide to fit nicely into the compartment.
That’s interesting, I did not realize they varied in size. I’ve always designed my battery compartments around the Duracell 9v, so good to know I’ll watch out for that in the future. 👍
 
So I’m doing some design work this morning and I needed a reference size for 9v batteries for the compartment I’m designing… so I grab my Special 5H and pop open the battery covers to discover… YES the Stingray has been shipped with Duracell 9v batteries!!

I know this seems silly, but I’ve received so many new instruments with el’cheapo 9v batteries instead of using decent batteries to start out with… so good on Ernie Ball for installing quality batteries from the start, this just raises my impression of them even higher… great company!
I got my new SS around Nov 1st and the Duracells that came with the bass are still good! They were just over 9V earlier this week.

I’ll let ‘em go down to 8.4V or so and change them, as is the usual practice for me on batteries.
 
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One of the best forums I've ever been on, and this thread is among the cream of the crop.
As I understand it, 9V batteries vary in physical size a bit. The compartments on the EBMMs are built around the size of the Duracell. Other brands may not be long enough to reliably make contact with the terminals (needs a shim in the back) , or may be a bit to wide to fit nicely into the compartment.

Yeah I've heard of this before as well. Duracell is the best bet.
 
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