OK! I figured it was an Epi EB0...in that case do what you want (no clue what i would want for a bridge pickup).
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Epiphone Newport shortscale
- Thread starter Crobybass
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- bass epiphone newport
Yep - Now I'm tempted to do the MM pickup.... or maybe install the Newport Bridge PU I removed. Really, really tempted to do the MM, though. I have several of them lying around - not real MM's, but they'll work. It would sure be hilarious if this ol' pile ended up being my main axe! Hmmmm, I don't wanna think about that much...
However, if it is something I like, I will sand down the black headstock (or just prime it) and paint it Cherry Red. I have lots of Stewmac Lacquer. Might as well be a bit different. I have decals coming, too.....primarily because I wanted a decal for my Newport. I'll just remove that "thong" emblem and apply the decal ( I should be able to fill the holes with toothpick and black Super Glue, then smooth it out). I've planned on making a new pickguard, too. @MudderBucker renewed my GAS to get that going, too. But back to the EB-0, I think a matching headstock would look cool. I'll probably cut a piece of mahogany for the truss nut cover.... also Cherry Red.
Sheesh, as if I don't have anything to do around here.
I'll keep you posted on both "Fun-Time Projects".
Make it yours why not?
Yea a MM pickup sounds interesting...i remember when Stingrays came out mid 70s, i saw many big bands using them live...then i checked them out and well, they have an active EQ to boost the lows and shape the sound!?
I guess i am not a fan of clanky sounding basses, i dont slap (though i can EQ a bass to get a slap tone usually with a semi parametric EQ)...not a big fan of the scooped J sound with both pickups (why some wire them in series?)...im old school i guess (and old lol).
I have a MM style pickup in my Squier Affinity Jaguar bass, plus I have another Affinity Jag that has that "MM/Jazz" pickup from Wilkinson. They're both ceramic and passive. I can roll the highs off and it definitely doesn't sound clanky, lol. I think preamps contribute a lot to the scooped, clanky sound. But the more I think about putting one in an EB-0..... and having the option of V-V-T with the mudbucker..... it just sounds like it would be interesting. I am also geting an alnico MM pickup in soon, for one of my Jag basses, so I can compare that one to the ceramic pickup. So many options, so little money.
Ive heard StingRays that arent clanky, its still that sort of bloopy burpy sound but as always EQ is your friend as well as string choice and picking style.
V-V-T sounds good maybe even a series parallel option between the 2 pickups as some do on J basses...keep in mind A5 magnets can still be very strongly charged close to a ceramic...ive swapped so many alnico types in guitar humbuckers; A2 thru A8.
Its nice when you can swap magnets but the weaker A2 can definitely be moved closer to the strings...A3, A4 ive tried them all in guitars.
I would go for it!
Hi guys! I have a problem with my neport that I guess you have already experienced; I've noted that the sound between the strings is really unbalanced, especially between A String (very powerful) and the E string (very weak). I suspect that i could be a little bit adjusted changing the height of the pickups, what do you think?
PS: I guess that mine are still the original strings.
PS: I guess that mine are still the original strings.
I did this with my Epi EB-0. The bridge pickup is a chrome TB Plus out of a Gibson Les Paul Bass. Killer pickup for this application. I have another that I plan to have fitted to a ratty ‘68-ish Gibson EB-0 one of these days. I’d like to see how it pairs with a real Mudbucker.
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Usually it happens with both pickups no matter if they are soloed or not
To me, it sounds like my issue I had with the original strings, but with the G on mine. I just think they're cheapo strings. Please note: I was NOT able to fit D'Addario short scale strings on mine. The tailpiece took up some of the length and the silk wraps ended up in the nut slot. Pity, because I really like that brand. The solution was a set of DR Short scale strings and they DO fit fine on my Newport. Yep, I think it's worth the $$ outlay to do the strings first. I also changed the stock Ceramic Magnets to Alnico V's and it tamed the sound down a bit. I'm still debating on whether to change that neck pickup or not..........
I’m sure you’ve answered this already (it’s a long thread) but what exact replacement tuners did you install?
Just received my Newport today and had practice with it. Loving the sound. The mudbucker with the t-bird pickup is awesome and has a great variety of sounds.
In terms of quality, the only complaint is a little buzzing high up on the E string although it’s not enough to come through the amp. There’s 0 fret sprout. It might need a slight tweak to the truss rod once the new strings settle in but even the intonation is dead on. I didn’t have a significant problem with the tuning keys but I have a set of Gotoh’s lying around so I may swap them out anyway. I would just need to ream out the holes a bit.
My favorite thing is that it’s a properly sized short scale. The other short scales I’ve tried all have a bunch of extra body past the bridge making them nearly as long as a standard. This will be great if my arm acts up. I have a big ass plate in my left arm from a break a few years back.
In terms of quality, the only complaint is a little buzzing high up on the E string although it’s not enough to come through the amp. There’s 0 fret sprout. It might need a slight tweak to the truss rod once the new strings settle in but even the intonation is dead on. I didn’t have a significant problem with the tuning keys but I have a set of Gotoh’s lying around so I may swap them out anyway. I would just need to ream out the holes a bit.
My favorite thing is that it’s a properly sized short scale. The other short scales I’ve tried all have a bunch of extra body past the bridge making them nearly as long as a standard. This will be great if my arm acts up. I have a big ass plate in my left arm from a break a few years back.
So I’m going to rewire my Newport for VVT as I like the concept of blend knobs but they are usually no more than glorified switches.
Any suggestions for determining the polarity of the neck pickup to see if it’s out of phase?
Any suggestions for determining the polarity of the neck pickup to see if it’s out of phase?
Your ears should tell you if they're out of phase already but use a magnet to check if the coils are north up or south up.
Yeah, I couldn’t hear anything blatantly wrong so I assume it’s correct.
Although, word of warning that the split shaft CTS pots are a little larger than the originals and you may break the pots pushing the old knobs on… waiting on more pots and different knobs…
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,633
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- John K Custom Basses
Just recently got one of these from Sweetwater as a demo. Price was right so I bit the bullet. Keep in mind that Sweetwater demo instruments are often customer returns.
First, the quality and appearance is first rate. Solidly assembled and seems well made. Dual action truss rod which IMO is a plus. Unlike most Indian Laurel boards I've played this one doesn't feel dry and brittle. Close to rosewood in feel and I personally like it better than Pau Ferro. No fret sprout or rough edges so at least they got that right.
Second, the electronics in mine needed cleaning. The blend pot was very noisy transitioning between the two pickups with a noticeable noise like a thump at the halfway point where the mudbucker starts to come in. I don't know if there was solder residue that got inside the pot. Or if it was just a defective wiper or what. But after cleaning it a few times getting some deoxit in there it cleaned up fine and is OK now.
Third, and the worst problem of all is that it was almost unplayable out of the box. The action was high and the bass had fretbuzz even with high action. I could visibly see multiple high frets that needed work. The nut was very high and needed filing to lower every string. This I consider to be a major problem as filing nut slots lower is delicate and time consuming work and easily messed up by an amateur. However, many manufacturers don't do this. Instead leaving it up to the dealer of a competent shop to do.
None of these were issues for me. I expected to find issues since it was discounted and a demo return. Also, I have both the knowledge and the tools necessary to fix issues like this. So all that was needed was some patience and my time to correct the issues. The neck required a full fret level, re-crown and polish on the frets, as well as the above mentioned nut work to make it play properly. I still neeed to do some corner smoothing to the edges of the nut, but I'll wait till I'm sure it stays stable. To be fair I've had plenty of new basses come across my bench that also required the same treatment.
That said, all the above issues should not be happening on a new bass. So, it would seem that EPI's QC isn't quite up to snuff on these. I'm sure many TB users could correct this stuff, but the average player might not be able to correct the issues. Some of the reviews online for these have also mentioned that the out of the box setup was crap. So, like anything else you buy. you pays your money and you takes your chances. Just be forewarned that you might have issues. So buy from a dealer that has a good return policy.
Now after the work I put into it, it plays great and sounds HUGE.
First, the quality and appearance is first rate. Solidly assembled and seems well made. Dual action truss rod which IMO is a plus. Unlike most Indian Laurel boards I've played this one doesn't feel dry and brittle. Close to rosewood in feel and I personally like it better than Pau Ferro. No fret sprout or rough edges so at least they got that right.
Second, the electronics in mine needed cleaning. The blend pot was very noisy transitioning between the two pickups with a noticeable noise like a thump at the halfway point where the mudbucker starts to come in. I don't know if there was solder residue that got inside the pot. Or if it was just a defective wiper or what. But after cleaning it a few times getting some deoxit in there it cleaned up fine and is OK now.
Third, and the worst problem of all is that it was almost unplayable out of the box. The action was high and the bass had fretbuzz even with high action. I could visibly see multiple high frets that needed work. The nut was very high and needed filing to lower every string. This I consider to be a major problem as filing nut slots lower is delicate and time consuming work and easily messed up by an amateur. However, many manufacturers don't do this. Instead leaving it up to the dealer of a competent shop to do.
None of these were issues for me. I expected to find issues since it was discounted and a demo return. Also, I have both the knowledge and the tools necessary to fix issues like this. So all that was needed was some patience and my time to correct the issues. The neck required a full fret level, re-crown and polish on the frets, as well as the above mentioned nut work to make it play properly. I still neeed to do some corner smoothing to the edges of the nut, but I'll wait till I'm sure it stays stable. To be fair I've had plenty of new basses come across my bench that also required the same treatment.
That said, all the above issues should not be happening on a new bass. So, it would seem that EPI's QC isn't quite up to snuff on these. I'm sure many TB users could correct this stuff, but the average player might not be able to correct the issues. Some of the reviews online for these have also mentioned that the out of the box setup was crap. So, like anything else you buy. you pays your money and you takes your chances. Just be forewarned that you might have issues. So buy from a dealer that has a good return policy.
Now after the work I put into it, it plays great and sounds HUGE.
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