Epoxy as Inlay.....

[Twysted Thystle]

As the title of the thread implies.....

For those of you who make bass necks (I'm still learning....), do you make your own inlays? And if you do, do you use any epoxies? I'm trying to start a side hustle with branding and the like, and I'd like to have a representation of my logo as the octave marker. In a way, I think that epoxy would be an easy way to learn how to accomplish this, as I acquire more knowledge and materials that won't break the bank.

I only have 5 projects under my belt and I used cheap pre-fab necks in all of them. Yes, I'm branching out and starting to make necks, so this is just as good a time to learn......from the ground up, if you will.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

 

[MPU]

Epoxy seeps quite far from the inlay cavity so you have to seal the cavity with clear epoxy before pouring tinted epoxy. At least on one Ric bass build inlays has been cast with epoxy(?) resin.

 

[rudy4444]

I've experimented with epoxy filled routes and decided they always looked cheap and not particularly attractive.
If you're serious you can do your own logo and have them cut from pearl. My pearl logo inlays from DePaule were $6 each when I first started using them but the last batch of name logos were double that. (Probably more now.)

If you're serious about branding don't shoot yourself in the foot.

 

[mapleglo]

Here's a few examples of using epoxy as inlays. Obviously, it's mixed with stuff to give it color or texture. On most of these, I used mica powder. And for what it's worth, I did not have to seal the walls of the inlay prior to filling them. No issues with "seeping". Use quality epoxy (like West Systems) and you should have no issues.

 

[RichterScale]

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Here's a few examples of using epoxy as inlays. Obviously, it's mixed with stuff to give it color or texture. On most of these, I used mica powder. And for what it's worth, I did not have to seal the walls of the inlay prior to filling them. No issues with "seeping". Use quality epoxy (like West Systems) and you should have no issues.

I did some not so intensive research when I was looking at inlay options a few months ago. So, I don't have it all committed to memory. But, one of the things I think I remember reading was a concern with a difference in hardness from the epoxy to the surrounding fingerboard wood when sanding.
Did you run into any issue with this and/or how did you address it?

 

[Twysted Thystle]

I did some not so intensive research when I was looking at inlay options a few months ago. So, I don't have it all committed to memory. But, one of the things I think I remember reading was a concern with a difference in hardness from the epoxy to the surrounding fingerboard wood when sanding.
Did you run into any issue with this and/or how did you address it?

Good question. I haven't started it yet, but I plan on practicing on a bunch of scrap pieces to get the feel of it. Although pearl or abalone seems more genuine, it's almost price prohibitive. Again, lots of practice.....

 

[MPU]

Maple has smaller pores than rosewood so it has less seeping.

 

[mapleglo]

I did some not so intensive research when I was looking at inlay options a few months ago. So, I don't have it all committed to memory. But, one of the things I think I remember reading was a concern with a difference in hardness from the epoxy to the surrounding fingerboard wood when sanding.
Did you run into any issue with this and/or how did you address it?

No issues. These inlays have been stable for several years now. The top picture is from a bass that has since been disassembled. The neck has sat out in my workshop for a couple of years, which gets to well over 110 degrees during the summer. It's still stable.

And the maple wood I used for each of these necks has no seeping, not "less seeping".

 

[MPU]

There’s no darker line between inlay and maple?

 

[Rôckhewer]

for what it's worth, I did not have to seal the walls of the inlay prior to filling them. No issues with "seeping"

On the flame design inlay... you cut the pocket on a laser, if I remember correctly.
So the pocket was essentially sealed by the heat of the laser ... much like a Shou Sugi Ban treatment.
... just saying.

 

[mapleglo]

On the flame design inlay... you cut the pocket on a laser, if I remember correctly.
So the pocket was essentially sealed by the heat of the laser ... much like a Shou Sugi Ban treatment.
... just saying.

Yes, the flame design was cut by the laser. However, the Ric style inlays I cut by hand with a fret saw.

 

[MPU]

That laser cut explains a lot. Usually end grain of maple wicks epoxy so that there will be a bit furry looking line on the end grain. Not a sharp, razor cut like between MOP and ebony.

 

[dkelley]

No issues. These inlays have been stable for several years now. The top picture is from a bass that has since been disassembled. The neck has sat out in my workshop for a couple of years, which gets to well over 110 degrees during the summer. It's still stable.

And the maple wood I used for each of these necks has no seeping, not "less seeping".

I believe that he was asking about sanding, not seeping, in the question you quoted.

 

[mapleglo]

I believe that he was asking about sanding, not seeping, in the question you quoted.

That's right, which is why I used a new paragraph regarding the seeping issue.

 

[dkelley]

That's right, which is why I used a new paragraph regarding the seeping issue.

AH! i read your reply with interest but misunderstood it to be all about the seeping aspect. Thanks

 

[bobdabilder]

If you're doing black or dark inlays in maple, you'll want to seal the inlay cavity with clear spray enamel or something. Dark epoxy will seep into maple.

 

[darthplagis]

Just a daft idea... Could you not quickly coat the routed cavity with superglue for a quick and cheap fill, give it a few coats and sand smooth ready for the epoxy?

Rather than using a small batch of clear resin or waiting for lacquer to cure.

Just a thought.

 

[lark_z]

At the community woodshop, I routinely see others filling 'lasered' engravings in a variety of hardwoods with epoxy, both clear and tinted followed by either/both power and hand sanding.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Black or dark epoxy inlay will indeed seep pretty badly on maple, there was a thread devoted to the problem a while back:
Maple soaking up black epoxy on inlay, horrible results, HELP!
The cure seems to be sealing the grain on the inlay recess first. I dont know if just clear epoxy first is better than CA glue, but at least im sure epoxy will stick to more epoxy. Ive done crushed pearl inlays like @mapleglo, but only on bubinga boards. I pre-sealed the inlay recesses with tinted epoxy, but mainly just to keep the dark wood from showing through the inlay.

 

[Rabidhamster]

As the title of the thread implies.....

For those of you who make bass necks (I'm still learning....), do you make your own inlays? And if you do, do you use any epoxies? I'm trying to start a side hustle with branding and the like, and I'd like to have a representation of my logo as the octave marker. In a way, I think that epoxy would be an easy way to learn how to accomplish this, as I acquire more knowledge and materials that won't break the bank.

I only have 5 projects under my belt and I used cheap pre-fab necks in all of them. Yes, I'm branching out and starting to make necks, so this is just as good a time to learn......from the ground up, if you will.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

People don’t like to buy brand markings at the 12th fret, but epoxy is workable as inlay material.