Ernie Ball Cobalt Slinky Flatwound Short Scale Installation Question

[RedHotFuzz]

So I just received my new Sterling Stingray Short Scale and am installing new strings. I’m using Cobalt Slinky Flatwounds for the first time based on positive reviews on this forum. These are the first bass strings I’ve ever bought that have small-gauge wire extending past the silk ends. Am I to trim that off before inserting the silk end into the hole in the tuning peg?

 

[Zooberwerx]

So I just received my new Sterling Stingray Short Scale and am installing new strings. I’m using Cobalt Slinky Flatwounds for the first time based on positive reviews on this forum. These are the first bass strings I’ve ever bought that have small-gauge wire extending past the silk ends. Am I to trim that off before inserting the silk end into the hole in the tuning peg?

You should be okay in that regard as you're not addressing any overwrap. I assume you bought the correct scale length set? Here's the Cobalt install blow-card:



Riis

 

[Malak the Mad]

Years ago, I talked to a customer service rep at Ernie Bass. I was asking if they had short or medium scale versions of their Cobalt strings. At the time, they said they didn't make them. That was a fair number of years ago and things might've changed since then, but if not, your Cobalts are built for long-scale basses.

 

[michael_t]

Years ago, I talked to a customer service rep at Ernie Bass. I was asking if they had short or medium scale versions of their Cobalt strings. At the time, they said they didn't make them. That was a fair number of years ago and things might've changed since then, but if not, your Cobalts are built for long-scale basses.

Both the Slinky Flatwound (= Cobalt) and the Group Flats (stainless steel) now come in "short scale" with 32.5" winding length (ball end to taper/silk). They were introduced a couple of years ago.

 

[RedHotFuzz]

You should be okay in that regard as you're not addressing any overwrap. I assume you bought the correct scale length set? Here's the Cobalt install blow-card:

View attachment 7448912

Riis

The unwound/unsilked end is so long that the wound/silked end won’t go into the tuner post hole. I’ll just trim it off.

 

[Zooberwerx]

The unwound/unsilked end is so long that the wound/silked end won’t go into the tuner post hole. I’ll just trim it off.View attachment 7448974View attachment 7448975

That's fine...those are the short-scale / 32.5" winding Cobalts, correct?

Riis

 

[michael_t]

The unwound/unsilked end is so long that the wound/silked end won’t go into the tuner post hole. I’ll just trim it off.View attachment 7448974View attachment 7448975

Wow, I've never seen a string with silk with non-silked part extending that much! Are they just being too lazy to trim it off at the factory? Or, is there a specific reason why it's designed that way?

 

[RedHotFuzz]

That's fine...those are the short-scale / 32.5" winding Cobalts, correct?

Riis

Correct.

I’ve just never had to trim wire from a bass guitar string so I wanted to be sure.

 

[RedHotFuzz]

Wow, I've never seen a string with silk with non-silked part extending that much! Are they just being too lazy to trim it off at the factory? Or, is there a specific reason why it's designed that way?

Yeah, first time I’ve seen strings like this too so I wanted to ask before I started snipping.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Correct.

I’ve just never had to trim wire from a bass guitar string so I wanted to be sure.

Yeah, as long as the remaining string (wrap & core wire) extends ~4" past the machine head post, you'll be okay. Normally, I recommend 4 fingers / 3.5" (...one "Zoober") but you're adding an extra pass-thru per instructions so you'll need a little addt'l length.

I know: "....that's what SHE said".

Riis

 

[RedHotFuzz]

Yeah, as long as the remaining string (wrap & core wire) extends ~4" past the machine head post, you'll be okay. Normally, I recommend 4 fingers / 3.5" (...one "Zoober") but you're adding an extra pass-thru per instructions so you'll need a little addt'l length.

I know: "....that's what SHE said".

Riis

It’s like a foot, not even including the bare wire. Crazy.

String length from ball end to the end of the silk is 48”!!! ???

 

[michael_t]

It’s like a foot, not even including the bare wire. Crazy.

View attachment 7448987

String length from ball end to the end of the silk is 48”!!! ???

Obviously they make short scale strings out of the same wires as the long scale. But one would expect them to have enough sense to cut them down to proper size at the factory before packaging them. This is a very sloppy way of doing it, if you ask me...

 

[RedHotFuzz]

Obviously they make short scale strings out of the same wires as the long scale. But one would expect them to have enough sense to cut them down to proper size at the factory before packaging them. This is a very sloppy way of doing it, if you ask me...

And I never dare trim off any silked wire as I don’t want the silk coming unraveled. But how can I have 10” of silk wrapped around the peg???

 

[Zooberwerx]

It’s like a foot, not even including the bare wire. Crazy.

View attachment 7448987

String length from ball end to the end of the silk is 48”!!! ???

Oh, you got the bonus pack! You're stuck-like-chuck but not to worry. I would still measure ~4.5" past the post, mark the string with a Sharpie, and put a sharp bend at the 4" point. Cut the string at the 4.5" mark and continue the install. You don't have much of a choice. This should prevent the over-wrap from unraveling and provide the desired 3-4 wraps around the post.

Riis

 

[TheDuff]

Both the Slinky Flatwound (= Cobalt) and the Group Flats (stainless steel) now come in "short scale" with 32.5" winding length (ball end to taper/silk). They were introduced a couple of years ago.

I put a short scale set of Cobalts on my Ibanez Mikro. They fit correctly.

 

[RedHotFuzz]

Oh, you got the bonus pack! You're stuck-like-chuck but not to worry. I would still measure ~4.5" past the post, mark the string with a Sharpie, and put a sharp bend at the 4" point. Cut the string at the 4.5" mark and continue the install. You don't have much of a choice. This should prevent the over-wrap from unraveling and provide the desired 3-4 wraps around the post.

Riis

Well, if I got a long scale set packaged as a short scale set I suppose I could return them to Sweetwater. I’ll email EB to see what the full end-to-end length should actually be for this set. I don’t see it listed on their website.

 

[scuzzy]

I just put the same strings on the same model. keep about 6". due to the larger post and the small diameter, you can get a lot of turns around the post. follow the included insert instructions. it is a great combo, the strings are fine if the silk clears the nut slot.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Well, if I got a long scale set packaged as a short scale set I suppose I could return them to Sweetwater. I’ll email EB to see what the full end-to-end length should actually be for this set. I don’t see it listed on their website.

You should be able to discern by measuring the full-wrap length: ball-end > taper transition 32.5". We've seen stranger things happen.

Riis

 

[TheDuff]

You should be able to discern by measuring the full-wrap length: ball-end > taper transition 32.5". We've seen stranger things happen.

Riis

I agree.

Because differences in bass guitar models regarding the length of the string before the saddle and after the nut often differs within the same scale group of bass guitars the player should always measure the length of the removed stock string to determine ideal total string length needed.

String length is a semi precise factor that a player needs to consider before cutting the string. The string needs to be cut to the right length with precision to ensure proper string fitment.

Always measure the distance needed from the ball end of stock string to the nut, not from the saddle to the nut.

The silk wrap starts after the nut.

Note: The thin core string at the top that extends past the tapered wraps … this thin core wire is much smaller than the main bass string with wrapping. Be advised that this thin core wire is sometimes necessary to wind onto the post because the windings do not extend all the way to the post. It is acceptable to attach the thin unwrapped string to the tuning post without worrying about the wraps unwinding or coming apart. That is the core wire and provides linear rigidity.

 

[RedHotFuzz]

Note: The thin core string at the top that extends past the tapered wraps … this thin core wire is much smaller than the main bass string with wrapping. Be advised that this thin core wire is sometimes necessary to wind onto the post because the windings do not extend all the way to the post. It is acceptable to attach the thin unwrapped string to the tuning post without worrying about the wraps unwinding or coming apart. That is the core wire and provides linear rigidity.

I’m now realizing these strings are so long that not only does the core wire extension need to be cut off but a good section of the wrapped string does too - unless I want a tuning post that looks like a ball of yarn.

Clearly I’ve not owned a wide variety of bass strings because these are the first I’ve bought that will require any type of cutting at all. All the other strings I’ve bought and installed just required inserting the silk end into the peg hole, bend, wrap, and twist the key.