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"Explosive Ibanez" Takes Flight

Bassgod just to let you know, I've been so busy with everything lately,that I only ever get on here anymore just to check your two threads progress.

That's awesome. It's good to know that my build threads aren't a total waste of my time.

Just an update, I will be doing the final touchup for tiny chips here and there, and then seven layers of clear go on. First real coats of clear go on tomorrow.
 
I just came across this thread and read the whole thing. I feel like i was reading the best book of my life, only to discover the last chapter is missing.

I look forward to seeing the completed work. This thing is coming together quite nicely.

Great job, and thank you for the superb documentation!
 
I felt the same way when I discovered this thread, Joe! :D I really, really dig "How I did it" threads, ESPECIALLY when they have lots of pics. This thread has delivered the pics along w/detailed explanations...it's been awesome so far. Hoping for a big, successful finish.
 
Thank you guys for the kind words. I construct my threads based on past experiences. I hated when the builder would post a pic of the parts and then a pic of the finished product. I'm a stickler for detail, down to the smallest part. It's how I learn. Any goof up or success is passed on with the hopes that future builds can avoid my mistakes.

As soon as I get a workable layer of clear on, I promise more pics of how I turn my orange peel surface into a sheet of glass.

On that note, I've used wet sanding by slowly using finer grits as I go. It has been successful for my past projects, but some have advised against this. Does anyone have better options for getting the clear coat smooth?
 
On that note, I've used wet sanding by slowly using finer grits as I go. It has been successful for my past projects, but some have advised against this. Does anyone have better options for getting the clear coat smooth?

Use clear lacquer over colored lacquer :)

Wet sanding is used so that the finish can be washed off of the sandpaper, and it lubricates the surface as well. If the finish starts to warm up it will stick to the sandpaper because of friction-induced heat from sanding. You'll get hard specks on the sandpaper (some call them "corns") that will scratch the surface you're trying to smooth. Usually you would use good quality wet-or-dry paper and you can add a little dish soap to the water you rinse it in to help lubricate as you sand.

The problem with enamel is that it may not get hard enough to sand and buff, at least not like lacquer which dries harder. I've found that enamel will get soft right away from the friction of sanding and buffing - I could pull the clear enamel right off of a piece with my buffing wheel, this isn't as easy with lacquer.

There's a lot of info out there as far as finishing schedules for different materials - but you'll need to find the way that will work for the materials you have layered on your item. The links I posted should get you started, check out Stewmac (under "Free information") for basic info.

Keep in mind that you're finishing with enamels and not polyester-based or lacquer (or French polish - shellac). Enamels behave differently and are made for different purposes, I'm not sure if you can get that same deep clear mirror finish you'll see from a factory or custom built instrument with enamels. You'll need to experiment.

The best and safest way - practice on scrap. Spray those color boards you have with your clear and see what happens.
 
Thank you guys for the kind words. I construct my threads based on past experiences. I hated when the builder would post a pic of the parts and then a pic of the finished product. I'm a stickler for detail, down to the smallest part. It's how I learn. Any goof up or success is passed on with the hopes that future builds can avoid my mistakes.

As soon as I get a workable layer of clear on, I promise more pics of how I turn my orange peel surface into a sheet of glass.

On that note, I've used wet sanding by slowly using finer grits as I go. It has been successful for my past projects, but some have advised against this. Does anyone have better options for getting the clear coat smooth?

Most of the time, the clear coat goes on fairly smooth right off the bat. In my past experiences, all I've needed to knock the small bit of roughness off the clear was some sort of compound. Something like 3M Perfect-It or 3M Finesse-It.
 
I have about 6 more coats of clear to apply. It's actually coming along nicely. I was worried about wet sanding the clear coat, but it seems to be working. After every round of sanding and clear, the finish gets smoother. I figure I will be buffing the finished body by next weekend. Thank god; I hate painting.
 
I can't wait to see the finished product. I feel like a kid at Xmas.

What did you end up using for the clear coat and sandpaper? I am tackling one of my old basses here shortly and I am very apprehensive about the clear. I saw a bunch of suggestions the last couple weeks.

Keep up the good work, can't wait to see it.
 
I can't wait to see the finished product. I feel like a kid at Xmas.

What did you end up using for the clear coat and sandpaper? I am tackling one of my old basses here shortly and I am very apprehensive about the clear. I saw a bunch of suggestions the last couple weeks.

Keep up the good work, can't wait to see it.

I just went with Rustoleum clear gloss enamel. It lays down nicely and sands easily. I'm sure there are way better products out there like Reranch. I love their stuff.
 
Went home for lunch to do some sanding. With each coat and wet sand, the orange peel is slowly becoming less visible.

Here are some fun pics. Enjoy!

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This was me just mocking it up to see what the body would look like with hardware.

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