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Extended Range Bass (Club??) Thread

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Thinking back on other amplification discussions, IIRC Jauqo III-X doesn't use anything extraordinary for his low C#

Regular head and a 4x10, IIRC.

You guys are correct .




For the record I do not use a over the top fancy rig.

As far as amps go, 500 watts minimum

Cabs a minimum of 410's

My main concern is the overall wood choices and the quality of the pickups,on board electronics and strings.
 
I was wondering what kind of amp rig you are using with those low tunings, and are you happy with how it sounds?

I use a solid state processor and direct in to an ampeg VST, this combined with my active pups works great (to my surprise) and I borrow a member of our bands cab and amp rig (im comparitively new to bass :hiding:) its a 4x10 which works fine for the low e, but again I dont need the low e its just an extension for the drop A tuning. I also use a program that creates overtones from the fundamental so it can accentuate the notes for my low f. And yeah thats it, there are far more experienced low range bassists in this thread, they will be able to show you a more pro setup than mine :)
 
most of my main basses have a low f# (or lower)(octave below the f# on the e string of a standard bass) and i really like my rig. the main heart of my rig is a db680 -> qsc plx 3002 -> hartke 4x12 aluminum cone guitar cab and a yamaha 1x18" pa sub. i x-over the cabs at about 100-120 hz. seriously powerful rig even with its reproduction of the low f# and lower. rarely get over 5 on the gain on the preamp, and run it all mostly flat, and the volume output is more than enough for even medium sized clubs.

in an ideal world i'd trade my yamaha cab for an accugrove el whappo or a bag end elf system (or whatever they're calling it these days heh) - they'd improve the note clarity a little on the lowest (below low b) strings, but i can't afford them. :/
 
So you're saying that its all in the bass?


Intersting...

For the most part yes.


A lot of people are not giving modern technology it's dues. The right wattage from the right amp is the basic booster of the low end frequency.

No disrespect to the bass cab companies but a lot of emphasis on needing a particular cab is snake oil tactics. A good cab with a good amp is sufficient enough. You just need proper wattage for the cabs but one also has to learn how to properly adjust their volume and how much mid range they apply(mid range is the hidden volume knob that most bass players are not aware of).

Most of the work is done already with the right amp.

The strength really does start with the quality of the bass, it's electronics and strings.

On a lot of gigs believe it or not Anthony Jackson uses a Hartke rig.
 
For the most part yes.


A lot of people are not giving modern technology it's dues. The right wattage from the right amp is the basic booster of the low end frequency.

No disrespect to the bass cab companies but a lot of emphasis on needing a particular cab is snake oil tactics. A good cab with a good amp is sufficient enough. You just need proper wattage for the cabs but one also has to learn how to properly adjust their volume and how much mid range they apply(mid range is the hidden volume knob that most bass players are not aware of).

Most of the work is done already with the right amp.

The strength really does start with the quality of the bass, it's electronics and strings.

On a lot of gigs believe it or not Anthony Jackson uses a Hartke rig.

Thank you, I've been reading up on this, and joining in the odd discusions, as I've been really intrested in going lower than B, for now I'm thinking of a Warwick Dark Lord set, I just need to decide which of my basses is the right one.
 
Hey y'all...new to the site but no stranger to ERBs. My first was a Hohner headless 5 string. Great tone but the body was too small for my playing style. I traded that in for an Ibanez SR506, one of the early models from '94 I think. It had the dual control pots. After that I had many 5 string basses. I liked the tone of the ESP B series 5-ers. I got a Conklin and loved the tone and range right from the start. I hate the weight though. The Conklin killed my shoulder every time. I have been playing for over 20 years and to tell you the truth I am kinda tired of playing the name brand game and paying thousands for an instrument. I think most people buy into the name brands for two reasons. 1) everyone knows the cost a fistful of cash, which leads to number 2) people think it's cool when you wear $4000 around your neck at a show. Well I am here to say I have tried a brand that has a mixed rep. I got me an AntonioTsai 7 string. I did a lot of research before I made the purchase and I looked for the better build of the models he had to offer. His newer design, a copy of the Ibanez SR body, is balanced a great deal better and I actually like the fit and feel when I play. I no longer get shoulder pain and it has permanently replaced my Conklin. The tone can be modeled across the board and I have to say I like his basses. I realize they are made by hand but I was so amazed at the quality and ease of use that I ordered a fret less model. I am free to answer any questions someone may have before buying an AntonioTsai 7 string, but don't get caught up in the negativity of his hollow-bodies and get one of his basses....

m_5c780838f0e74492b191a1472d853bf3.png


Here is my first AntonioTsai 7 string...
m_49fd230e5e6b40d9aad080875e2fe109.png
l_28728f85baaf4a29b7b0b1f2c19439b0.png
...Yeah, I look real happy don't I? (Photo taken just after my cold broke)

Here is the fret less......
m_52570a44e3e54167b1519023dfd2e46f.png
I have played this in my original progressive metal band Evolution...http://evolutionrocks.com and many people think the bass cost thousands....I am very pleased...what do you think?

Do I qualify for the ERB CLUB? I want in!
 
Hey y'all...new to the site but no stranger to ERBs. My first was a Hohner headless 5 string. Great tone but the body was too small for my playing style. I traded that in for an Ibanez SR506, one of the early models from '94 I think. It had the dual control pots. After that I had many 5 string basses. I liked the tone of the ESP B series 5-ers. I got a Conklin and loved the tone and range right from the start. I hate the weight though. The Conklin killed my shoulder every time. I have been playing for over 20 years and to tell you the truth I am kinda tired of playing the name brand game and paying thousands for an instrument. I think most people buy into the name brands for two reasons. 1) everyone knows the cost a fistful of cash, which leads to number 2) people think it's cool when you wear $4000 around your neck at a show. Well I am here to say I have tried a brand that has a mixed rep. I got me an AntonioTsai 7 string. I did a lot of research before I made the purchase and I looked for the better build of the models he had to offer. His newer design, a copy of the Ibanez SR body, is balanced a great deal better and I actually like the fit and feel when I play. I no longer get shoulder pain and it has permanently replaced my Conklin. The tone can be modeled across the board and I have to say I like his basses. I realize they are made by hand but I was so amazed at the quality and ease of use that I ordered a fret less model. I am free to answer any questions someone may have before buying an AntonioTsai 7 string, but don't get caught up in the negativity of his hollow-bodies and get one of his basses....


Do I qualify for the ERB CLUB? I want in!

of course :)

i've heard pretty good things about those antoniotsai basses, considering their really reasonable price.

the conklin you had was a groove tools, right?
 
a nice excerpt from that:

This is why longer scale length=better.

That doesn't account for the fact that longer scale lengths that benefit the lower strings can lead to higher strings sounding thin and relating poorly to the other strings tonally, which many bassist would not want (hence the design of Dingwalls, pianos, harps, etc.).
 
I'm sure a bass tuned low C# or low F# tuned up to E or A would sound great with a long scale length. Too bad they're so hard to play :p I've owned 33" up to 36", and I'm pretty happy sticking with 34" at this point. Luckily I never go below a low B.
 
Damn I want an ERB fretless so bad after seeing some of the beauties you guys have :cool:

So is it possible to find flatwounds that have thicker gauge than .135/.140, I mean those that go lower than B?
If not, what strings are you guys using for that (I assume Conklins or something custom) and how is the fingerboard putting up with them?
 
Damn I want an ERB fretless so bad after seeing some of the beauties you guys have :cool:

So is it possible to find flatwounds that have thicker gauge than .135/.140, I mean those that go lower than B?
If not, what strings are you guys using for that (I assume Conklins or something custom) and how is the fingerboard putting up with them?


I don't know about flat strings but try contacting DR strings I deal with the directly and they are nice to work with......tom
 
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