In for a penny - in for a mile/kilometer. If maybe I mixed the metaphor --- bet I did.
How're you liking the wipe-on clear coat stuff?
,
How're you liking the wipe-on clear coat stuff?
,
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Faux Acoustic guitar build
- Thread starter gitlvr
- Start date
Joe, I'm glad you're hanging in there.
As to the wipe on poly, it's a mixed bag. I think it looks really good on the open grained ash. IMHO, a lot like an oil finish, but it will be more durable/less reactive of a finish.
However, I'm less than happy with the finish on the top. The finish is not smooth, and the lustre or shine of the finish on the top is splotchy, IMHO. It doesn't show in the pics as much, and maybe I'm just picky, but I believe it's the fact that the top wood is a softwood, and it soaked up the finish unevenly. If I had continued laying down layers it might have leveled out, but I don't want a very thick finish on the top, so I stopped at this point..
But I used the gloss wipe on. I think if I had used the satin it would have turned out a lot nicer.
It worked so well on the ash, however, that I intend to finish an ash-bodied P bass with it. I think that'll turn out nice.
And grateful to see you hanging in here with me. Thanks, and welcome back to the build.
Have you thought of the MinWax spray Spar Varnish?
This is a body I just finished this last week in three coats of it:::
I call this my 'Cherry Tea Burst' color.
This is a body I just finished this last week in three coats of it:::
I call this my 'Cherry Tea Burst' color.
That's lovely. and no, i've not tried it, but I think my local Lowes carries it. Does it require levelling between coats? And will it show "witness lines" if you sand through the top coat into the one underneath? How long does it take to cure?
Lots of questions, I know.
Lots of questions, I know.
It's absolutely idiot-proof. No lines of demarkation at all for any after-the-fact sanding or adding more coats
I can get a dozen or so coats on in a day if the air is at shirtsleeve temperature. To date I haven't had any humidity problems with blushing or fogging. I don't think it's possible for moisture to harm the application unless you try it outside in the snow or rain.
I had a body that needed a repair right in the edge where it got hit by a rabbit. Don't ask - it's not nice.
I just 1200 w/d sanded out the damage to get to a flat surface and rebuilt all 20 or so coats back in and finally 1600 & 2000 w/d sanded it out and gently buffed it with talcum powder and alcohol after letting it sit a few days until it stopped out-gassing.
This stuff is so nice to work with that I'm going almost exclusively with it from now on.
I honestly feel it would do a pretty good job as a clear coat on the fingerboard of a fretless too for a good, long time. It sets up pretty hard after a week of air drying. As of yet, I've resisted force drying it at all but I believe there will come that time.
You may have noted I had 20 or so- coats on that one body.
THAT IS NOT TYPICAL. I usually find just 5-6 coats is more than enough. I WILL put over 10 on a headstock though to fill the area surrounding the decal to get it all level.
FWIW that Cherry Tea Burst is MAYBE 4 coats on the front if I remember -- but not more than that!
I do use Meguire's California Gold Carnauba Wax as the final buff out though.
I can get a dozen or so coats on in a day if the air is at shirtsleeve temperature. To date I haven't had any humidity problems with blushing or fogging. I don't think it's possible for moisture to harm the application unless you try it outside in the snow or rain.
I had a body that needed a repair right in the edge where it got hit by a rabbit. Don't ask - it's not nice.
I just 1200 w/d sanded out the damage to get to a flat surface and rebuilt all 20 or so coats back in and finally 1600 & 2000 w/d sanded it out and gently buffed it with talcum powder and alcohol after letting it sit a few days until it stopped out-gassing.
This stuff is so nice to work with that I'm going almost exclusively with it from now on.
I honestly feel it would do a pretty good job as a clear coat on the fingerboard of a fretless too for a good, long time. It sets up pretty hard after a week of air drying. As of yet, I've resisted force drying it at all but I believe there will come that time.
You may have noted I had 20 or so- coats on that one body.
THAT IS NOT TYPICAL. I usually find just 5-6 coats is more than enough. I WILL put over 10 on a headstock though to fill the area surrounding the decal to get it all level.
FWIW that Cherry Tea Burst is MAYBE 4 coats on the front if I remember -- but not more than that!
I do use Meguire's California Gold Carnauba Wax as the final buff out though.
Thanks, Joe. I think I'll have to give that a try. Always looking at finish choices. The more the better, AFAIC.
Hey gitlvr, just got through reading your build. Really cool!! Can't wait to see it when it's done.
Tedward
Tedward
Truss rod cover, rear cavity plate and nut blank.
Truss rod cover is Yellow Siris. I think it is an Aussie wood, but not sure. I think it's quite a lovely wood. Rear cover plate is flame Maple, which after finish is applied should darken it to better match the TR cover. Would have loved to have had some more yellow Siris for the back cover, but the only other piece I have is slightly too narrow. It'll make a lovely headplate one day, though. Nut blank is Corian.
All this was generously given to me by a luthier friend of mine. He even paid the shipping. In fact, I have enough Corian and Flame Maple headplates for several guitars.
Also mounted tuners today.
Truss rod cover is Yellow Siris. I think it is an Aussie wood, but not sure. I think it's quite a lovely wood. Rear cover plate is flame Maple, which after finish is applied should darken it to better match the TR cover. Would have loved to have had some more yellow Siris for the back cover, but the only other piece I have is slightly too narrow. It'll make a lovely headplate one day, though. Nut blank is Corian.
All this was generously given to me by a luthier friend of mine. He even paid the shipping. In fact, I have enough Corian and Flame Maple headplates for several guitars.
Also mounted tuners today.
Dude, are you sure that's the right pic or are you just making sure we are paying attention? 
lol!
lol!
Not sure where the confusion is, but this is my "Faux Acoustic" build, and that's the right pic.Dude, are you sure that's the right pic or are you just making sure we are paying attention?
You're not confusing this with my "P bass for a Friend" build, are you?
Thanks, Wraub! I really do appreciate you and others sticking with this thread. It's bounced on and off these pages so many times, a yoyo would be more consistant.
In the end I hope it will all be worth it. Can't wait to find out.
In the end I hope it will all be worth it. Can't wait to find out.
