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Double Bass fdeck preamp techie question...

#61
velvetphil said:
...I'm thinking about a variable impedance box like the Radial Dragster going into a Radial I/O input switcher (true-bypass), to go back and forth between P-bass and upright...
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drurb said:
Following the pre-amp/HPF with a variable impedance box seems to provide no advantage of which I can think.
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Gearhead43 said:
The Radial does not go high enough in impedance to do anything for piezo pickups.
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drurb said:
He wanted to put the radial after the fdeck pre/HPF. In that case, the piezo would be loaded and buffered by the active circuit of the pre/HPF. Following the pre/HPF with a variable impedance box just doesn't seem to provide any advantage. I'm not a fan of such devices in any case.
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i am now a fan of the f-deck! this is a fantastic little device.

i wanted it for use with the Realist. the increased load of the f-deck really fattened up the sound nicely, using just the f-deck pre and from there straight into the Focus. wonderful!

i would like to use a radial tonebone bassbone on an upcoming gig, and today i tried this out, running the f-deck into the bassbone. while the bassbone by itself slightly diminishes the sound coming out of the amp, add the f-deck before the bassbone and it fattens up the sound nicely. i can then toggle between two eq settings and add a boost as well. it seems these two devices work very well together. nota bene, the bassbone is not the dragster but i just wanted to note that the f-deck works well in this constellation.
 
#62
Thanks for this info Bill. I imagine that you can do some nice tone-shaping with the Radial. The Radial Tonebone Bassbone doesn't include variable input impedance, a feature that I've argued is, IMO, not very useful. That is, unless it's used to dial in optimal load impedance and then leave it there. Otherwise, it's an indirect and unpredictable way to achieve tone shaping that is better achieved via direct, active means such as you're doing. Putting the fdeck first, provides a quite optimal load to the piezo and it makes sense that you prefer it in there.

Just a geekazoid detail: The higher input impedance of the fdeck device provides a decreased, not an increased load. The lower the input impedance of a device, the more a device plugged into it will be loaded down by it.

Did you get the Series 2 fdeck device? Anyway, glad to hear that you've joined the club of those who appreciate the performance and value of that little gem. :)
 
#65
The Series 2 version adds a level control next to the HPF cutoff knob and an LED that blinks when the battery is low. I just had to have one! I wanted it mostly for the low-battery indicator.
 
#66
velvetphil said:
Ah excellent! The main reason I'm looking at my setup this closely is because I'm primarily a doubler these days. I'm looking for light weight and convenience. To that end, I'm looking at a Markbass F500 head and 12" cab, which has an input impedance of 500k. As I said, I think I'm going to dump the K&K, so it'll end up being the Rev Solo into the HPF pre. Following that, I'm thinking about a variable impedance box like the Radial Dragster going into a Radial I/O input switcher (true-bypass), to go back and forth between P-bass and upright. The Radial I think will give me some flexibility with the sound into the Markbass; worth a shot anyway!

Thanks for the advice everyone!
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Phil,
Make sure that you have a luthier that knows his stuff install the Rev Solo unless you are a very good woodworker. The HPF/Pre and The Rev Solo Should be all that you need. provided its fit correctly. I used a Underwood wing pickup for years and the reason it sounded as good as it did was that my luthier knew how install it.



Ric
 
#67
drurb said:
...Just a geekazoid detail: The higher input impedance of the fdeck device provides a decreased, not an increased load. The lower the input impedance of a device, the more a device plugged into it will be loaded down by it.

Did you get the Series 2 fdeck device? Anyway, glad to hear that you've joined the club of those who appreciate the performance and value of that little gem. :)
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thanks for the geekazoid info. it's all starting vaguely to make sense now...:cool:

but what's this about Series 2? i just got my f-deck from Francis in January and it has no LED for the battery on it. shees, already i am outdated again!
 
#68
William Hoffman said:
thanks for the geekazoid info. it's all starting vaguely to make sense now...:cool:

but what's this about Series 2? i just got my f-deck from Francis in January and it has no LED for the battery on it. shees, already i am outdated again!
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He just completed the re-design. In fact, mine doesn't even have a label yet because he hasn't received his printed supply. The pre-amp and filter circuit are, to my knowledge, completely unchanged.
 
#71
The cat's out of the bag. That's OK, since I was within days of announcing anyway. Les is correct that I am waiting for new labels, from a company that makes stickers for punk rock bands.

The new preamp will have a volume control and battery status LED. The basic circuit is the same. It will be a bit bigger, and will also cost a bit more. I'll also keep the old design, so long as there is demand.

I have been testing the new design. Two exist. I have one and the RUBBER DOCTOR has the other. I've got a small number of pending orders, and will offer the option of waiting until the new preamp comes out.

Out of respect for the CUP, I will not say any more here, but will try to get my web page updated this weekend.
 
#72
does it have a 1000 watt power amp built into it yet?

;)

fdeck said:
The cat's out of the bag. That's OK, since I was within days of announcing anyway. Les is correct that I am waiting for new labels, from a company that makes stickers for punk rock bands.

The new preamp will have a volume control and battery status LED. The basic circuit is the same. It will be a bit bigger, and will also cost a bit more. I'll also keep the old design, so long as there is demand.

I have been testing the new design. Two exist. I have one and the RUBBER DOCTOR has the other. I've got a small number of pending orders, and will offer the option of waiting until the new preamp comes out.

Out of respect for the CUP, I will not say any more here, but will try to get my web page updated this weekend.
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#76
dar512 said:
The low-battery indicator sounds nice, but what I really need is for it to yell at me to unplug the out cable when I'm done playing. :hmm:
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You could put a sticker on it. :) Given that's how you turn off the power, I've always been well aware of unplugging it. In fact, when I set up before a gig, I leave that cable unplugged until I'm ready to play.
 
#77
Francis, one question - probably answered already somewhere, but i didn't find it: which position of the phase switch is technically "in phase", toward the knob, or toward the outer edge? I know the real answer is "try 'em both and use the one that sounds better" and all, but I'd like to know just for the hell of it. :)
 
#78
Chris Fitzgerald said:
Francis, one question - probably answered already somewhere, but i didn't find it: which position of the phase switch is technically "in phase", toward the knob, or toward the outer edge? I know the real answer is "try 'em both and use the one that sounds better" and all, but I'd like to know just for the hell of it. :)
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subscribed.
I think it's to the left (toward the knob), but, I'm only 91% sure. Can someone help us?
 
#79
Chris Fitzgerald said:
Francis, one question - probably answered already somewhere, but i didn't find it: which position of the phase switch is technically "in phase", toward the knob, or toward the outer edge? I know the real answer is "try 'em both and use the one that sounds better" and all, but I'd like to know just for the hell of it. :)
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Chris-- I trust you know that absolute phase doesn't matter at all. The amp that follows may invert/alter phase as may the cab. Still, I understand that you want to know just to know. I'm sure Francis will answer but if he doesn't get around to it, then I'll put mine on a 'scope for you and report back.
 
#80
Thanks guys. It sure sounds better switched in towards the knob, as it's unbearably "thick" the other way and the HPF doesn't seem to do as much. Still, enquiring minds...

When I get the answer, I'll put a dab of paint or nail polish by the "in phase" position just for troubleshooting purposes. I remember once on the Headway it had been sounding brilliant for weeks, then one day I showed up to the gig in a familiar room and it sounded absolutely like crap and I couldn't figure out why. Turned out it was phase reversed, but it took a while to find it.
 

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