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fdecks HPF, Part II

Well, it sounds like its doing something. If I reintroduce the 60hz into the signal through the mxr, I can hear the bass being added back in and vice versa. I was inebriated when I asked this question I'm not sure why I asked it, haha. I guess I was wondering if by doing all this cutting between the hpf and mxr if it was stacking, and if it would be "unnatural" so to speak. Everything sounds quite excellent however, so that kind of mutes my question LOL

Even with the hpf set at 80hz, there's still frequencies below that in one's signal, just not to the same extent as the hpf being absent in the signal chain. Am I right? I'm just making assumptions heh heh:D

There is a slope that the Fdeck rolls off the lows below the 80Hz in this case where there will be some content below the 80 Hz. The slope is rather steep though so there isn't much there for the MXR to grab hold of.

That coupled with the fact the MXR's Q setting on the sliders all reach into the surrounding bands so the MXR may very well be cutting some frequencies above the Fdecks 80 Hz set point.
 
Does anyone have an issue using the Series 3 with electric basses with VERY hot pickups? I thought my SBMM Ray34 was hot until I got a SBMM S.U.B. Ray5 - that thing is even louder!

I suspect even the hottest bass output doesn't come close to 6V p-p, but just wanting to make sure before I drop the dime.

All help appreciated...

Scott
 
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According to Fdeck's sales page this is built for DB, are most of you using it for double bass? I am trying to eliminate speaker thump. My current BL actually asks me to play at pretty loud stage volumes and I am wondering if this will help me tame my lows.
I should offer a bit of explanation. The original HPF-Pre was actually inspired by problems encountered when amplifying upright bass. But a number of electric players started using it to deal with speaker thump and related issues. In fact, Series 3 was based on discussions with a number of electric players who asked for a more aggressive filter slope.
 
First time to really use my new Series 3 "in anger" with my Bag End S15-D - superb. Opens up the cabinet tons...I can dial in lots more low end (although I rarely need it) and not drive the 15 into bottoming out. It was rehearsal so I wasn't REALLY opening up the full can of whoopa$$, but it did a great job in expanding the tonal palette. I stopped worrying about how much I was cranking which knob and just adjusted until I got the sound I was after. Yay.

Tomorrow I'll get to throw the Ray5 at it - that'll be the real challenge.
 
I had another European individual in need of a HPF-Pre 3 make use of my middle-man service. I had strayed away from using the Fdeck HPF-Pre and instead had been using a Behringer ADI21. With this poor European individual's order, I picked up another Series 2 for me. This morning, my Kala U-Bass sounded so much better with the Series 2 than with the ADI21. I am still going to use the ADI21 for its EQ/DI features, of course the Series 2 is not attached to my U-Bass strap. It is good to be back in the fold once more. I play direct-to-board at pretty much every church I play and the Series 2 makes the U-Bass sound good even through questionable PAs.
 
Regarding the Series 3 and high-output basses, I had good results with my humbucker-enabled Gretsch. The humbucker in my bass has given sound guys fits pretty much everywhere and I was happy that the Series 3 handled it just fine. Again, I only play direct-to-board.
 
It should blink when you plug the output cable in, but should not STAY illuminated.
This. It does not stay lit. And remember, it happens when you plug in the OUTPUT not the input. Also, if you have one of the first, it may not do even that. ;) Mine is a proto and does not blink very often. I find it works just the same though.