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fdecks HPF, Part II

Ordered a Series III. Right now, I'm using the lowest parametric band on my Walkabout to control the low end. Find that a small cut near the bottom of the frequency sweep allows me to boost bass and still keep the sound tight. Hoping the fdeck allows me to achieve the same effect (or a "better version" of the same effect?) while freeing up that lowest EQ band for tone-shaping.

Will try it with some higher-powered heads, too. With the Walkabout, the goal will be to maximize the potential/headroom/dynamic range of the amp. With the bigger stuff, to protect speakers (depending on what cab I play) and control low-end rumble.

I am sensitive to tone-suck and like to keep the signal path as clean as possible -- will see how this does with that, too. Will report back when I've had some time with it.
 
Ordered a Series III. Right now, I'm using the lowest parametric band on my Walkabout to control the low end. Find that a small cut near the bottom of the frequency sweep allows me to boost bass and still keep the sound tight. Hoping the fdeck allows me to achieve the same effect (or a "better version" of the same effect?) while freeing up that lowest EQ band for tone-shaping.

Will try it with some higher-powered heads, too. With the Walkabout, the goal will be to maximize the potential/headroom/dynamic range of the amp. With the bigger stuff, to protect speakers (depending on what cab I play) and control low-end rumble.

I am sensitive to tone-suck and like to keep the signal path as clean as possible -- will see how this does with that, too. Will report back when I've had some time with it.
Basically did the same thing today. I've got a GK 700RB and 400RB, and after switching to flats, the bass is causing some rumble. I love the tone, so hopefully the Fdeck will solve it.
 
cheers,

quick question:
will the version 3 take 12V from a power supply? that´s the only output i got left :/
How new is it? If it's fairly new, then you're good. Around January 2013, I switched to a new type of op amp chip that can handle 30 Volts. This includes all current production.

Now, be sure to check the polarity of the 12 V supply. It should be negative in the middle.

The oldest units use a chip that's rated at 16 Volts, and 12 V wall warts that I've measured can go up as high as 19 Volts because their output is rated under full load.

Note: Edited to say "negative in the middle."
 
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2.1mm or 2.5mm pin... I ask because if it's 2.5mm I need to get another power cable on order, just used a 2.5mm reverse cable (that came with the PP2) spliced to a (new) voltage doubler on my Trace Elliot SMX.

Thanks for the polarity confirmation.
 
2.1mm or 2.5mm pin... I ask because if it's 2.5mm I need to get another power cable on order, just used a 2.5mm reverse cable (that came with the PP2) spliced to a (new) voltage doubler on my Trace Elliot SMX.

Thanks for the polarity confirmation.

It's 2.1 mm. I'll add that to my literature.

Got my Series 3 a few days ago, will be a few more before I can test it. Just for my own edification, isn't max volume unity gain on this model? Trying to make setup/tweaking as fast as possible when this happens. Thanks!

Max volume is unity gain on series 3, and around +2 dB on series 1 and 2.