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fdecks HPF, Part II

Still doesn't answer the question....

If the battery is completely dead it only passes a very low signal. I assume as the battery gets to marginal levels, it distorts.

But realistically the ma draw is so low that if you change the battery on a regular basis you should never run into a problem.

If you're that concerned about battery levels maybe look into Batt-O-Meter.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/keith-mcmillen-instruments-batt-o-meter-battery-tester
 
If you're that concerned about battery levels maybe look into Batt-O-Meter.

The point is recognizing that I will screw up sooner or later and, most likely, have the battery die at an inopportune time. The point is not that I SHOULDN'T have that happen. Of course I shouldn't. But, I do screw up occasionally.

Making plans that recognize that people screw up sometimes is safer than making plans assuming people won't screw up.

If the HPF3 doesn't go into true bypass mode when the battery gets low or dead, then having a true bypass switch on it would make it more accommodating for when I (inevitably) screw up.
 
If the HPF3 doesn't go into true bypass mode when the battery gets low or dead, then having a true bypass switch on it would make it more accommodating for when I (inevitably) screw up.
Then yes, you should talk to Francis about a custom mod, because no one else seems to have an issue with it. If you find it to be a deep, serious concern, you should probably just power it from a 9V pedal power supply; I expect they're a lot cheaper than a custom mod.

In my case, and anyone else using it as a high-impedance buffer (which is most EUB/URB folks) true bypass wouldn't accomplish anything.
 
Random question for the Fdeck Collective: I hooked my rig up last night, as I would gig it, for the first time with the HPF 3 in the chain. That means Line 6 G30 wireless receiver, HPF, and PitchBlack tuner pedal.

What I noticed is that my wireless and my tuner pedals (I have two different ones), and my Sansamp BDDI for that matter, though I don't use it in this particular rig, are the same in that they all have the Output jack on the left and the Input jack (except the wireless, of course) on the Right. But, the HPF has the Input on the left and the Output on the Right. It made it a bit of a PITA for connecting the cables. My connector cables are those little short ones with right angles on each end. It wouldn't be as much of an issue if my cables had straight plugs, but with my setup I don't have room for straight plugs to stick out the back.

So, is having the output be on the left pretty much the norm for other pedals and the HPF is a standout in its orientation? Or do other pedals do it the same way as the HPF and it just depends on which pedal you're talking about as to which side the Output is on?

Since all of my amps have the input jack on the left side of the front panel, having the output from pedals be on the left makes things very convenient. I can line them all up on top of the amp or on top of the cabinet, in front of the amp, and have the signal go into the right end, chain through any pedals I'm using, come out the left end and plug right into the amp, without having any jumper cables crossed. Very tidy. I'm tempted to open up the HPF, swap the jacks around, and put new labels on them. Or look for a stompbox with a bypass switch and transplant the guts into it, if I start feeling EXTRA motivated.
 
So, is having the output be on the left pretty much the norm for other pedals and the HPF is a standout in its orientation?
From a recent thread:
http://www.talkbass.com/threads/why-right-to-left.1128855/

I think the fDeck is the outlier here.
No real idea why - maybe Francis will offer an explanation - or I'll just have to ask him.
I would -guess- that the way the HPF is done 'seems natural' if you don't have a long history of stompboxes.
And that it's a legacy of being initially developed for DB use, where pedal boards and chains of effects are rare.
 
I'd like to see all the controls on top also. Maybe someday when I have the time (fat chance) I'll open 'er up see what I can do w/o wrecking it or doing anything that would cause noise in the circuitry.

First EZ thing to do is to just flip it over if the in & out jacks are an issue. Not all pedals use the sides.

Moving the pots to the top shouldn't be too difficult, then just plug the old holes with plastic hole plugs from the hardware store.
 
From a recent thread:
http://www.talkbass.com/threads/why-right-to-left.1128855/

I think the fDeck is the outlier here.
No real idea why - maybe Francis will offer an explanation - or I'll just have to ask him.
I would -guess- that the way the HPF is done 'seems natural' if you don't have a long history of stompboxes.
And that it's a legacy of being initially developed for DB use, where pedal boards and chains of effects are rare.

It may be because the 'power on' insert is the out rather than the in, which is a leftover from the upright intent of the first two units, where plenty of guys attach them to the bass somewhat permanently, and then just unplug the output. Thus if you use batteries, and you have standard pedals...you're unplugging all the 'right' connections not a mix.
 
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I'd like to see all the controls on top also. Maybe someday when I have the time (fat chance) I'll open 'er up see what I can do w/o wrecking it or doing anything that would cause noise in the circuitry.

First EZ thing to do is to just flip it over if the in & out jacks are an issue. Not all pedals use the sides.

Moving the pots to the top shouldn't be too difficult, then just plug the old holes with plastic hole plugs from the hardware store.

Relocating the pots would be somewhat difficult since they are mounted to the circuit board and provide the support for the board.
 
Sounds like it's time for an HPF 3e, where the e is for "electric" - as in electric bass. Same guts, but in a stompbox, with a bypass footswitch, controls on top, input on the right, output on the left, and power jack on the back. :) I would have definitely paid a bit more for that when I bought mine.
 
That's exactly why mine is mounted "upside down" on the top row of my board. It puts the jacks in the "normal" order, and provides easier access to the controls. I can live with the print not being right side up.
image-4.jpg
 
I am somewhat migrating from using my GB Shuttle amps (which have the HPF circuit in them) to using Demeter amps (which don't), and had the unpleasant experience over the weekend of playing an audition in a boomy room where my lows were getting away from me a bit.

OK, so today I bought an HPF3. Now, here is the really stupid question. I don't use effects other than my tuner. I want to use the HPF3 with my small rack bag, which has a Furman PL Tuner in it. So, I just need a wall wart to plug into the Furman. Are 9V AC adapters for guitar effects all terminated with the same connector at the device?

Told you it was a stupid question. But, I don't want to buy the wrong wall wart. Thanks.
 
I plugged one of the plugs from a HotSpot (OneSpot? Whatever it is) wiring harness into my HPF3 and it seemed to work, so I guess it uses the same power connector as all the other normal pedals out there.
 
That's exactly why mine is mounted "upside down" on the top row of my board. It puts the jacks in the "normal" order, and provides easier access to the controls. I can live with the print not being right side up.

I thought about doing that. But, it's right next to my PitchBlack, which has the In/Out jacks on the back, so flipping the HPF around would still make it kind of a PITA to hook up.

I just found PedalPartsPlus.com. They appear to have all the parts I would need, to transplant the guts - assuming I can detach the control pots from the PCB. I haven't looked at the HPF guts that closely yet. And the PPP.com parts are pretty inexpensive. Maybe I should just see if I can buy just the PCB from Francis, without pots attached, and get the specs for the pots, so I can just make up my own. Hmm.....
 
I thought about doing that. But, it's right next to my PitchBlack, which has the In/Out jacks on the back, so flipping the HPF around would still make it kind of a PITA to hook up.

I just found PedalPartsPlus.com. They appear to have all the parts I would need, to transplant the guts - assuming I can detach the control pots from the PCB. I haven't looked at the HPF guts that closely yet. And the PPP.com parts are pretty inexpensive. Maybe I should just see if I can buy just the PCB from Francis, without pots attached, and get the specs for the pots, so I can just make up my own. Hmm.....

Do yourself a favor and stop typing. Crack open the case.
 
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