Wow, Part 11! Carry on! 
Continued from here: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/fearful-part-ten-10-a-747868/index51.html

Continued from here: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/fearful-part-ten-10-a-747868/index51.html
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I'm really interested in the Fearful Cabs. There is a lot of good information locked in all of these threads. Anyway, we can organize it better?
Maybe a threads like fEARFul - Crossovers, fEARFul- Cuts, fEARFul - finishes, fEARFUL - General disucssion?
Just a thought.
3015lf out for delivery today!
Now to get the $ together for the rest of the stuff for my 15/6.![]()
Huh. I'm a bit perplexed at the vibrational trouble. I think you may have nailed it with the plywood thing though. This is not something I've experienced with mine played loud. My cabs are both birch and my back panels are glued & screwed.
Did you already order the 18Sound mid? Don't skimp on that part. I was going to use a cheaper mid, but I am thrilled I didn't. That 18Sound mid just makes the cab come alive! Well...so does the 3015LF and the right crossover, but that mid is just as much a necessity IMO.
Greenboy:
I find Sundogue's above posts very interesting. They lead me to wonder whether you performed any Modal Analysis, presumably using Finite Element Models (?).
I hasten to add that I am an EE, not an ME, and am unqualified to volunteer.
Huh. I'm a bit perplexed at the vibrational trouble. I think you may have nailed it with the plywood thing though. This is not something I've experienced with mine played loud. My cabs are both birch and my back panels are glued & screwed.
It might be a contributing factor, but my 15/6 tube is Arauco 1/2" as well, and I don't notice any exceptional vibes as described. Of course, the tube form factor is more squat than the traditional 15/6 box. I also did a quick "knuckle test" of the cab after completion, and the lower back panel was not as solid & dead sounding as I would like, which prompted me to open it back up and glue in a couple of vertical braces on either side of the center spine.
Handyman said:I'm late the the party here, but has anyone here tried building the speakerhardware cut kit yet?
I've been itching to build one of these guys for a while, but my inadequacy with a saw had been holding me back.
This may be a stupid question, but what would be the resulting dimensions and weight of building a 15/6/1 out of these kits?
I haven't had much time to work on my kit-cab and haven't updated my build thread/blog for a while.
Disclosure: I got a discount on my 12/6 Flatpack Kit because of my small role in hooking Leland up with Greenboy. I have no financial interest in SpeakerHardware other than as a satisfied customer.
My kit was a prototype and Leland's first go at shipping an arauco fEARful kit. Several of my panels warped after they arrived (mainly due to the way I stored them). I think Leland has now added more biscuits to aid assembly if any of the panels warp. I'd advise that when the kit arrives it be stored unopened on a flat surface (maybe weighted down) for a few days at constant temperature and humidity. I'd also recommend that you assemble the entire outer shell in one sitting. (Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours, even if you've never done this sort of work.)
In a nutshell: This is a great deal for anyone who lacks the tools/confidence/whatever to cut the wood themselves. All you need is the time, a couple of C-clamps, wire for the internal wiring, a screwdriver, a drill for pilot holes, some putty or bondo, sandpaper, grill, and your choice of finish. Unless you order the Xover prebuilt, you'll need some zip-ties or hot glue to hold down the coils. If you use the assembly method that BFM recommends in the plans for his cabs, you'll also need some drywall screws.
A router with a roundover bit, electric sander, and a couple of bar clamps are helpful, but not necessary.
As with everthing Leland sells, he includes all the fasteners for mounting the hardware: screws/bolts for the corners, handles, jack plate, Speakons, etc. (He even includes "hole plugs" if you order 1/4" jacks.) With the fEARful flatpacks he includes a small plywood brace for aligning the panels square with one another.
I haven't seen his assembley instructions, but based on what I know about the man, I expect they're thorough and easy to follow. He plans to have Youtube videos available in the future.
A question for greenboy perhaps...
Would vertical bracing on the lower part of the back panel (down past the port), affect the port at all?
Since my last post was in part 10, and I feel it is important and don't want it to be missed, I'll repost it here...
Vibrations...
I was still experiencing some vibrations I could not account for.
I knew the ball bearings in my wheels were rattling at high volume although I never really heard it playing live, only in my living room.
However, I was getting some weird vibration going on when I played some deep notes or if I did a faster run on the E or A strings...at high volume. If I put my hand on the back I could feel the back resonating pretty severely. If I pressed on the back hard or put my foot against it, it went away for the most part. The massive vibration is only on the back panel and I did all the bracing according to plan...even the additional bracing!
So anyway...I was going to put some skids on the back because I always slide my fEARful into my truck on it's back and the back was getting scraped up a bit. Well, I put the skids on today (made from 1X2 oak strips...actual .75" X 1.5") and I am finding that ALL the vibrations are completely gone. Even the bearings in my wheels don't rattle anymore. When I crank it and play hard through it, there are absolutely NO vibrations to deal with at all.
If I were to build another 15/6, I would definitely add vertical bracing similar in placement to my skids, only on the inside (see pic below). I feel it makes a HUGE difference. I could have taken the speakers and foam out and added bracing but since I was going to add skids anyway this is just perfect.
I'm not sure if anyone else is experiencing back panel vibration at high volume, but if you are...add vertical bracing inside on the back panel between the edges and the brace in the middle. I think you'll notice a big difference.
Haven't painted the skids yet...just got them on and tested. I caulked the underside of them, pushed them on tight and used 7 screws per skid so that it was rock solid tight to the back (wanted to eliminate any vibration of the skids themselves). I love it! I can literally crank my amp through this beast and it is SOLID.
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As a woodworker, I like your skids!
For others who may want to add skids, UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic) also works very well; it doesn't splinter or require a finish, and is inherently "slippery." Plastics suppliers and retailers like Rockler sell dimensional blocks. In 3/4" thickness, it is rigid enough to effectively brace a cabinet's back panel.