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fEARful Part Ten (10)
- Thread starter greenboy
- Start date
- Status
True, it does only have 5 plies. It doesn't seem to dent all that easy and I haven't exactly been careful when manhandling the 4X8 sheet.
Fortunately I don't have to worry about my cab being treated nice, as I haul my own gear...never thrown in with other band gear or tossed around by stage gorillas.
lelandcrooks
Commercial User
The first time I used it was on your Jack. AFAIR, you pretty much had to stand on me to get me to build with it.
just sent you an order leland, wanna check out your crossover for another 15/6/1 im doing. I didnt have too much fun building my last crossover LOL.
I did, but I definitely appreciated it -- it's a lot lighter than the BB one (maybe 5-6lbs).
When I built a cab for my dad out of the stuff I was pretty amazed by how brad nails would just shoot holes almost all the way through it. But it did go together and stay together. He's got a JBL D140F in there and is able to sling it around one handed with ease
A couple of questions before the build. I did my due diligence in finding the answers before asking, but I'm sure it's SOMEWHERE, I just failed to find it.
First: Weight reduction of bracing. I've notice that, while not in the plans, several finished builds lightened the bracing with what appear to be 1.5 inch holes. What are the pros and cons to this approach? I have a drill press, so it's easy enough, but I want to make sure it's recommended before I do it.
Second: THIS one I'm pretty sure was explicitly covered somewhere, but I was unable to find it. I know that the design hinges on the strength of the PL Premium, and I've noted the extensive use of clamps in most builds, but should I be using additional fastening methodology to augment the glue and help it set? I've seen people mentioning brads AND pilot holes + screws... I have a nail gun and a selection of 18 guage brads I had intended to use, but I wasn't sure.
Third and finally: Looking at the illustration of the PL Premium glue "fillet" that Greenboy provided in his documentation, it occurs to me, is this all I need, or should I be placing glue between the two surfaces (in classical fashion) in addition? I'm pretty sure this is the most obvious of my questions, but the answer wasn't immediately apparent. I've seen threads in other sites suggesting that PL premium expands as it cures, and I guess that would suggest I DON'T put it between the surfaces, but... I honestly don't know.
Thank you in advance for your advice...
First: Weight reduction of bracing. I've notice that, while not in the plans, several finished builds lightened the bracing with what appear to be 1.5 inch holes. What are the pros and cons to this approach? I have a drill press, so it's easy enough, but I want to make sure it's recommended before I do it.
Second: THIS one I'm pretty sure was explicitly covered somewhere, but I was unable to find it. I know that the design hinges on the strength of the PL Premium, and I've noted the extensive use of clamps in most builds, but should I be using additional fastening methodology to augment the glue and help it set? I've seen people mentioning brads AND pilot holes + screws... I have a nail gun and a selection of 18 guage brads I had intended to use, but I wasn't sure.
Third and finally: Looking at the illustration of the PL Premium glue "fillet" that Greenboy provided in his documentation, it occurs to me, is this all I need, or should I be placing glue between the two surfaces (in classical fashion) in addition? I'm pretty sure this is the most obvious of my questions, but the answer wasn't immediately apparent. I've seen threads in other sites suggesting that PL premium expands as it cures, and I guess that would suggest I DON'T put it between the surfaces, but... I honestly don't know.
Thank you in advance for your advice...
My arauco (from Lowe's) is warping like a mofo. Shouldn't be much of a problem once the cab is assembled due to all the bracing, but I'm having to add some support to to the doors of the rack I'm building to keep them flat. But, it was cheap, light, and pretty much void-free.
Greyfin,
The original fEarful design did include the lightening holes.
Later,it ws secided that it was a lot of work for a little weight loss
and somewhat narrower braces could do the same thing.
I'd just go with the current desgn.
All adhesives, wheather PL or Elmers, need to be held in place while they set up.
That can be done with clamps, brads, nails, screws or whatever.
If in doubt use more of whatever means of holding you choose.
Just be sure it sets up where you want it.
Squeeze some PL onto the sufaces you want to bond, clamp, screw or whatever to hold it, let it set up, then come back and add the fillet, if you wish.
The original fEarful design did include the lightening holes.
Later,it ws secided that it was a lot of work for a little weight loss
and somewhat narrower braces could do the same thing.
I'd just go with the current desgn.
All adhesives, wheather PL or Elmers, need to be held in place while they set up.
That can be done with clamps, brads, nails, screws or whatever.
If in doubt use more of whatever means of holding you choose.
Just be sure it sets up where you want it.
Squeeze some PL onto the sufaces you want to bond, clamp, screw or whatever to hold it, let it set up, then come back and add the fillet, if you wish.
Got the Italian Poplar ply from a place in FLA. Do a google search on Eurolite plywood. The 1/2" (12mm) stuff is 5 ply w/ a thinner veneer face on both sides for a total of 7. Careful not to sand thru that thin face as the stuff is soft. BUT , it is some of the finest ply around -no voids, lays flat,VERY rigid, cuts beautifully and REALLY light! I finished it in a catalyzed poly to give the surface extra strength.
Also, not cheap. But, my 15/6 only weighs 33 pounds and it doesn't crawl around the floor. Not yet anyhoo...........
Same here. I put the sides, top and bottom together and the next morning it was twisted!
I temporarily screwed the back in place and set the baffle in after I got the port shelf and divider in and it's fine once it's braced into alignment.
Just something to consider with Arauco. I think because it is softer wood and only 5 ply it is more prone to warping.
Brad nail the entire thing together in one sitting is the way to roll with that stuff. At least, that's how I rolled with the last cab It was a simpler design than the fEarful, but I think I could get everything but the baffle in place (which you want to do last, at least, that's been my experience) in a sitting on the fearful too.
It was a simpler design than the fEarful, but I think I could get everything but the baffle in place (which you want to do last, at least, that's been my experience) in a sitting on the fearful too.
My 15/6 tube has thoroughly spoiled me to the point where other cabs just don't cut it, but it's too big physically and overkill sonically for many of my gigs. So I'm getting ready to build a 12/6.
My question to the assembled wisdom here is this: I'm sure that occasionally I'll want to stack the 15/6 tube and the 12/6. I prefer the narrower taller footprint of the 12/6 compared to the 12/6 cube, and the 12/6 sideways matches the 15/6 tube dimensions nicely for stacking, but the mid drivers wouldn't be next to each other. Should I think about mirroring the baffle board on the 12/6 so the mid drivers would be closer in a stack?
If I didn't mirror the baffle, how bad would it sound? I don't have golden ears (but I sure love the sound of the 15/6 tube).
Any advice appreciated!
My question to the assembled wisdom here is this: I'm sure that occasionally I'll want to stack the 15/6 tube and the 12/6. I prefer the narrower taller footprint of the 12/6 compared to the 12/6 cube, and the 12/6 sideways matches the 15/6 tube dimensions nicely for stacking, but the mid drivers wouldn't be next to each other. Should I think about mirroring the baffle board on the 12/6 so the mid drivers would be closer in a stack?
If I didn't mirror the baffle, how bad would it sound? I don't have golden ears (but I sure love the sound of the 15/6 tube).
Any advice appreciated!
Hi Felt-Tip - I had the 12/6 enclosure built slightly larger to stack atop my 15/6 tube. I should of made the 12/6 smaller as I rarely use these cabs together. One is usually enough, chosen for the appropriate venue.
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Well, even if I reverse the 12/6 baffle board, the mids won't exactly line up, they'll just be closer than if I didn't reverse it. Would this still be helpful? Is there anything else I could do to minimize the problem?
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
So, I've secured a nice preamp (at least one I think is nice) for moving to a pre/power setup for my fEarful stack. I've loved and will continue to use the LMII with this speaker setup, but its time for something with more headroom and less power amp compression.
I'm currently considering two of the Peavey IPR range...the 3000 and the 4500. When Peavey announced the IPR range, I was right off looking at the 4500. As that looked farther away (AKA maybe never), I redirected to the as of then unreleased IPR3000. The 8ohm numbers for each channel are underwhelming at under 500w per side.
The specs as posted from Peavey are:
1600 - 300w/8ohms; 530w/4; 900w/2
3000 - 440w/8ohms; 840w/4; 1490w/2
4500 - 825w/8ohms; 1500w/4; 2250w/2
Now it looks like the IPR should be out in the next few months. That would make it worth it to wait for the 4500. I could run it @8 ohms per side at ~840w and would have more than enough headroom for the volume and tone I use, OR I could run 4ohms on one side for ~1500w which would roughly amount to the same thing.
The other thought is that depending on gig need (and yes, sometimes we show up and find the PA provided less than wonderful) I could run monitors off of one of the channels as needed. Or in a real pinch I could use my LMII (which will be my backup amp) and use the IPR4500 to run front end or FE/monitors depending.
Any good reason not to wait for the 4500 and go with the 3000? Any serious negatives in here somewhere?
What say ye fEARful masses?
I'm currently considering two of the Peavey IPR range...the 3000 and the 4500. When Peavey announced the IPR range, I was right off looking at the 4500. As that looked farther away (AKA maybe never), I redirected to the as of then unreleased IPR3000. The 8ohm numbers for each channel are underwhelming at under 500w per side.
The specs as posted from Peavey are:
1600 - 300w/8ohms; 530w/4; 900w/2
3000 - 440w/8ohms; 840w/4; 1490w/2
4500 - 825w/8ohms; 1500w/4; 2250w/2
Now it looks like the IPR should be out in the next few months. That would make it worth it to wait for the 4500. I could run it @8 ohms per side at ~840w and would have more than enough headroom for the volume and tone I use, OR I could run 4ohms on one side for ~1500w which would roughly amount to the same thing.
The other thought is that depending on gig need (and yes, sometimes we show up and find the PA provided less than wonderful) I could run monitors off of one of the channels as needed. Or in a real pinch I could use my LMII (which will be my backup amp) and use the IPR4500 to run front end or FE/monitors depending.
Any good reason not to wait for the 4500 and go with the 3000? Any serious negatives in here somewhere?
What say ye fEARful masses?
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