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fEARful™ Part Ten (10)

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#182
Coolhandjjl said:
There's a thread somewhere here that lists who owns what fearfuls. IIRC, not many 1212/6 in use as they are big and heavy. Big benefit of the 12/6 and 15/6 designs is their size, weight, and modularity, IE, stacking another only when needed.
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Yeah I didn't see many on that list-one in fact that I saw.Leland mentioned yesterday going with the 15/6 and 12/6 to mix and match as needed.Most of my work is a bit on the loud side and the 1212/6 seems like a nice choice to have spare headroom if needed.Even the 1212 is 20 lbs lighter than what I'm using now!
 
#184
greenboy said:
Actually you are best off looking at the wiki Builds section which has more, but either way there are plenty out there not counted, both from talbassers and others. Not that I care about the counting thing.



They are about 10 pounds heavier, and they are also

1) louder
2) 4-ohm load which for some is an advantage and a good match for their favored head
3) 6" taller than a 15/6 which is nice
4) best built with tilt-back inset 3" wheels and handle, which makes them a breeze for stair climsb and load-in and out.



1212/6 is conveniently modular with 12/6, and it'll be a very loud combination with a 2.67 ohm load.
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Great points greenboy-and I just looked up all the specs and the 1212/6 is around 25lbs lighter than my current cab(85lbs).The 15/6 just looks so sweet though!!

Great chatting with you yesterday-thank you so much for the help.Lookng forward to trying this.
 
#185
1212/6 also costs around 175 more in materials and is closer to 15lbs heavier from the weights I am seeing, but regardless, it's a solid option if driver cost is not an option and watts are limited.

Seems like the 15/6 is more of a 4x10 replacement for most people's needs and saves some size and money. If you need more than a 4x10 regularly, the 1212/6 has a lot of advantages.
 
#190
greenboy said:
I hate arguing with experts all the time. Me and my poor maths. 60 - 50 = 15. Right. How could I be such a dunce. I'm outta here for now. You can begin to deal with all the extra stuff like setting up people's personal pages, and hey you know so much more about it than me.

My posts have vanished from this thread so as not to crowd you in your new position.
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I've seen a lot of weighed 15/6's and 1212/6's and see 65-70lbs more often than 60 for the 1212/6. Sorry for daring to tentatively contradict you!

I appreciate what you've done for the community and everything, GB, but you might want to try taking yourself a little less seriously.
 
#191
bassjam said:
Had a very nice chat with greenboy and Leland yesterday.Thanks guys-very informative and helpful.I'm really late to this but looks like I'm going to give it a try.It's taken me a bit to go back through all 10 parts and I have a ways to go.But looks like just what I'm looking for.

Anyone have any gigs under your belt with the 1212/6??
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I have. I may be the only one with a real 1212/6 so far.

I've used it for a few outdoor gigs and it did great. Barely had to turn it up. I did the tiltback with wheels and it makes this a very manageable cab. One thing I might change, were I to build it again, would be to put the tilt handle and wheels on one side instead of on the back. That would make it easier to roll through narrow hallways.

MX
 
#192
MX21 said:
I have. I may be the only one with a real 1212/6 so far.

I've used it for a few outdoor gigs and it did great. Barely had to turn it up. I did the tiltback with wheels and it makes this a very manageable cab. One thing I might change, were I to build it again, would be to put the tilt handle and wheels on one side instead of on the back. That would make it easier to roll through narrow hallways.

MX
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That might be a problem. I'm thinking that you'd be at least potentially creating turbulence in the port which as I understand it is not a good thing...

I'm higher on the 12.6 plus 12.sub but ... I rarely need even the max volume of a 12.6 so that color's my opinion no doubt.

I can say that the 12.sub sounds great in my PA :-)
 
#193
I have the 12/6 and the parts for the 12/sub and I still go back and forth over building a 12/12/6. If I would quit looking at MX's build page it wouldn't be an issue. But something about that cab just calls to me. I think I will most like go the 12/sub way because most of my gigs will only need the 12/6. But until it's built later this spring I just don't know.
 
#194
My plan for my 15/6 is to bi-amp via a speakon, +1-1 to the woofer and +2-2 to the midrange driver. For times when I only have my standard Eden head, I will build the CBG crossover with the L pad resistors also. A while back, someone posted a pic of their toggle switch for Bi-amping with a schematic. Can't seem to find it now that I'm ready. Anyone recall whose that was, or what post it was?
 
#195
Coolhandjjl said:
My plan for my 15/6 is to bi-amp via a speakon, +1-1 to the woofer and +2-2 to the midrange driver. For times when I only have my standard Eden head, I will build the CBG crossover with the L pad resistors also. A while back, someone posted a pic of their toggle switch for Bi-amping with a schematic. Can't seem to find it now that I'm ready. Anyone recall whose that was, or what post it was?
Click to expand...

I did several biamp/switch diagrams. See the fEarful pages: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

MX21
 
#196
Coolhandjjl said:
My plan for my 15/6 is to bi-amp via a speakon, +1-1 to the woofer and +2-2 to the midrange driver. For times when I only have my standard Eden head, I will build the CBG crossover with the L pad resistors also. A while back, someone posted a pic of their toggle switch for Bi-amping with a schematic. Can't seem to find it now that I'm ready. Anyone recall whose that was, or what post it was?
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I think it was MX21's in the x-over section of the GB fEarful pages.
 
#199
MX21 said:
I have. I may be the only one with a real 1212/6 so far.

I've used it for a few outdoor gigs and it did great. Barely had to turn it up. I did the tiltback with wheels and it makes this a very manageable cab. One thing I might change, were I to build it again, would be to put the tilt handle and wheels on one side instead of on the back. That would make it easier to roll through narrow hallways.

MX
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip!I sure would love to hear it with my M9
 
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