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fEARful™ Part Ten (10)

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#61
greenboy said:
Hi Wade.

Bi-amping helps because once you really grok it you have ultimate flexibility and quality control (or the opposite, if you don't grok). But it's not essential. It just so happens the stock crossover isn't too bad with no padding. I looked at that kind of thing every step of design, continually juggling the values so that switchable padding for rigs with a 12sub or 15sub would have a decent transition with either one or two woofers.

Using the switch schematic from the "12/6 with 6ND410 CBG" design is how to check it out.
Click to expand...

This switch is easily installed... I find that the difference between in and out isn't as great as many might think, but my crossover is slightly different.
 
#62
greenboy said:
Hi Wade.

Bi-amping helps because once you really grok it you have ultimate flexibility and quality control (or the opposite, if you don't grok). But it's not essential. It just so happens the stock crossover isn't too bad with no padding. I looked at that kind of thing every step of design, continually juggling the values so that switchable padding for rigs with a 12sub or 15sub would have a decent transition with either one or two woofers.

Using the switch schematic from the "12/6 with 6ND410 CBG" design is how to check it out.
Click to expand...
Thanks GB.

Eventually I would like to bi-amp but I will have to wait awhile until I could buy a new power amp. I would like to check out the Peavey IPR3000 DSP.

Until then I'll probably just enjoy my 15/6/1s as they are. Hell the 3015LFs are probably not even broken in yet.
 
#63
greenboy said:
Well, you did see the original 6ND410 are going for cheap at [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] in pairs I hope. People have been looking for double-up partners on that incredible deal. I think it's still running, and they've also put them up on eBay. Not trying to pressure, just want you to know that the deal exists : }

Anyway, the little anecdote on my party gig might prove instructive to people.
Click to expand...

No pressure. I can hear myself now saying..."But honey, greenboy says I have to have the 18 Sound mid..." LOL.
 
#64
greenboy said:
Yeah, on a 15/6 crossover it's not that big of a difference. Even on a 12/6 it isn't as big as some would expect, and that's partly due to the overtone balance / power distribution of a typical electric bass signal. People with especially bright EQ habits or preamps might have to rethink things - but then again, maybe not because what you end up with is a midrange distribution a lot more like a super3012HO. Some people like that apparently.

And if they do, well, this is an SPL monster - this has more of EVERYTHING. And no troublesome 2x2 driver arangement dragging the power response back down.
Click to expand...

What's the difference between doing that and just EQ'ing more mids in (with the padded driver)?
 
#65
greenboy - It's just the one handle, I tried to line up with the center of mass, on top I'd be in the middle of the 6"driver box so that's not a great option.

In hind sight I should have put it opposite the shelf so it'd display when I'm set up to play, but I was thinking of the shelf as the bottom.. anyway. I can live with putting it down and rolling it on the side.
 
#66
Finally got into my buddy's wood shop tonight. All cut out, and only the bracing the the back panel left to put together. Should have it all put together tomorrow, as well as the 3015lf broke in. Hopefully have it painted up and ready to go for the next gig on Saturday. Once again, thanks Greenboy, and everyone else that put their thoughts and efforts into making these plans. I can't wait to actually play this beast. Possibly have pics up soon.
 
#68
I am talking to a builder who is listed on GB's website who is starting to build nidacore fEarfuls.

His description of nidacore...

Stronger and more durable than baltic birch. It is the same material that they
build ocean racer's out of. You could sit on it and a whole lot more.
A nidacore cabinet is probably the most durable cabinet ever made. It
is not only stronger and lighter than Baltic Birch, it is also harder,
so it can handle accidental abuse, and it resistant to water and
chemicals. A nidacore cabinet will outlast the bass, amp, and player!

Nidacore is really a quite incredible material. Not only is the 1/2"
stiffer than 1/2" baltic birch, the 1" panels are five times stiffer
than the 1/2" panels at almost the same cost and weight as the 1/2".
The current batch of enclosures I am making are from 3/4" and the next
ones will be from the same or 1" if I can find a source for it. The
thicker Nidacore panels are so strong that I don't add internal
bracing, which cuts down labor a lot and is why I can make the prices
affordable.
Click to expand...

http://www.nida-core.com/english/

He is estimating that a fully GB spec'd fEarful will be about 30LBS. I'm sending him a money order this week!

Can anyone see any possible negatives of going with this approach?
 
#71
Remember, it'll be much, much stiffer than a plywood cab. Doubtful it will move much.

If it does, rubber feet of good quality will fix that. Or a foam granny pad. I wrap my amplifier in a granny pad for transit anyway, so easy enough :P
 
#73
Back in part 9, I posted about my experiment with a glass of bourbon on top of my 12/6. No time to link it right now, but the bottom line was that the glass (even after it was empty) didn't budge while I played loud enough to keep up with a drummer.
 
#74
This new material has a lot of potential but it hasn't been critically evaluated for bass cab use. I would wait to see how the tests go this Friday/Saturday. The GTG might be very telling in terms of the Nidacore 15/6/1 build quality, weight, tone, etc. Sure, we have certain expectations based on the fEARful design, Robby's background, the acoustic/physical properties of Nidacore, etc. but remember, the current batch of builds are all prototypes. Why not wait a while longer until Robby's method is perfected?

deb

::::BASSIST:::: said:
He is estimating that a fully GB spec'd fEarful will be about 30LBS. I'm sending him a money order this week!

Can anyone see any possible negatives of going with this approach?
Click to expand...
 
#76
fEARFULs definitely caught my attention. I have been trying to disect these threads. I really like the modular design and the focus on trying to reproduce the sound of the instrument without colorization.

I'm familiar with Eden cabs. I think I have only heard a fEARFUL once live, but it was supported by a bigger PA. Hopefully someone can provide a frame of reference for me.

Is there anyone familiar with Eden 112XLT? I was wondering how that compares to the 12/6?

I have a 112XLT. They are really meant to be paired with other cabinets. By it self it is really weak in the low freqencies. A common setup is to pair the 112XLT with an Eden 210XST, which was voiced for lower frequency, but I pair mine with an older Eden 410T. To my ears this pair sounds great. The 112XLT is a really great cab for mid clarity, it just doesn't have the umph of something like 210XLT has in it. I like the 410, but I want to downsize to making tranporting easier. I also don't want to break the bank.

I was thinking maybe I'll build a 12sub of 15sub to pair with my 112XLT and then maybe eventually build a 12/6. The wiki says the subs are for extemely extended range basses.

People who have built 12subs and 15subs.... how do like them? Are they over kill for a standard bass? how do they sound as stand alone cabs vs paired with something?

I imagine a setup of the 112XLT paired with a fEARFUL sub will provide a really full clear sound. Anyone have insight on this setup?
 
#77
Sell the 112XLT, use the money to buy a 6nd410, and build a 12/6. Definitely will maul the combo of the 112XLT+12/SUB, unless you're using an active crossover to highpass the 112XLT
 
#78
Are you saying the single 12/6 will maul the combo of 112XLT+12/sub?

I forgot to mention in my post above that after i would eventually build a 12/6 to replace the 112XLT if the sub goes well.

Right now I really like my sound with my current setup. I just don't feel like hauling that 410 around any more. So I was looking at the 12sub to support my 112xlt which is tuned more toward mid range frequencies. But if the single 12/6 is really the total package then maybe I should go that route, but that leaves me to question why are people building the sub version?
 
#79
why are people building the sub version?
Click to expand...

Because they process [EQ usually] their instrument's output to produce emphasis on low frequencies - and then they want to broadcast this low frequency emphasized signal at large amplitudes... so they slip a sub under their main fEarful cab. Results in extraordinary LF capability together with clean punchy mids and good off-axis behavior.
 
#80
Corporate Boy said:
Are you saying the single 12/6 will maul the combo of 112XLT+12/sub?

I forgot to mention in my post above that after i would eventually build a 12/6 to replace the 112XLT if the sub goes well.

Right now I really like my sound with my current setup. I just don't feel like hauling that 410 around any more. So I was looking at the 12sub to support my 112xlt which is tuned more toward mid range frequencies. But if the single 12/6 is really the total package then maybe I should go that route, but that leaves me to question why are people building the sub version?
Click to expand...


Most are building the sub to put beneath a 12/6. As the owner of a 15/6 and a 15/sub, I don't suggest running either of the subs alone, and really you may find a 12/6 does everything you're looking for without needing the xlt.
 
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