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fEARful Part Twelve (12)
- Thread starter greenboy
- Start date
- Status
I really wish I looked through all 12 parts of this. I remember going through part one and two, as well as bits and pieces of other parts to see built cabs. I think I might have to build one or two in the new year. I'm going back to school in September so it's hard to say how much spare time I'll have on my hands. I'd love a 1515/66, but maybe it'd be better to start with a 15/6 tube a 15 sub. Although, the 15/6 cabs look nice, too.
I could just go big and build two 1515/66 and run them together. I think that would look pretty swell.
I'll start small, though. I could use a nice practice rig. Maybe this will give me an excuse to get another lighter head, or a preamp/poweramp combo I've wanted for ages now.
I could just go big and build two 1515/66 and run them together. I think that would look pretty swell.
I'll start small, though. I could use a nice practice rig. Maybe this will give me an excuse to get another lighter head, or a preamp/poweramp combo I've wanted for ages now.
I got the control plate and tweeter l-pad wired up last night. There are lots of new pics on my build page. I labeled the control plate. Here are two labels I think would be of interest to you guys. 
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I took the liberty of a little comedy relief with the "watts" label b/c it will only be me playing the cab. And on the odd chance someone else plays through it, they'd have to have a whole lot of watts to hurt anything anyway.
And last but not least...
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I took the liberty of a little comedy relief with the "watts" label b/c it will only be me playing the cab. And on the odd chance someone else plays through it, they'd have to have a whole lot of watts to hurt anything anyway.
And last but not least...
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Nice! I have a couple ideas for labeling mine but I will wait to share those until I get to that stage.
I could just go big and build two 1515/66 and run them together. I think that would look pretty swell.
Are you going to be playing stadium gigs when you finish school then?
Thanks. They are just your everyday Brother p-touch label machine labels. I thought about getting metal engraved labels done up, but I'm already into this thing for amost $1K, once you factor in wire and glue and supplies, etc. These labels peel right off; I can always get something fancy-schmancy later on.
Are you going to be playing stadium gigs when you finish school then?
I hope so; it would take stadium-gig type income to pay off the bank loan it would take to build two 1515/66's !
I have a question about sealing around the mid driver and horn. I have the 6ND410 driver that has no gasket on the frame. What have you guys used to seal between it and the baffle? I don't want to place an order for only gasket seal tape so something I could get locally would be great. I also need to seal around the horn and just for reference, I will only be painting the baffle. I know somewhere it said that the duratex helps seal around the horn but I will have none there.
Did you order the PennElcom handles? They come with die-cut gaskets and you wind up with a lot of material left over. That's what I'm using for the mid and the horn.
If not, you could use thin weatherstripping for the mid. The horn is tricky b/c the mounting surface is so skinny. Again, I cut skinny strips of the material left over from the handle gaskets. You could use rope caulk of some kind but I'm not sure if it becomes permanent.
If you're not worried about being able to remove the waveguide, mount it, then silicone it from inside. Even if you blow the compression driver, you can still unscrew it from inside. The horn however would be a permanent part of the cab.
If not, you could use thin weatherstripping for the mid. The horn is tricky b/c the mounting surface is so skinny. Again, I cut skinny strips of the material left over from the handle gaskets. You could use rope caulk of some kind but I'm not sure if it becomes permanent.
If you're not worried about being able to remove the waveguide, mount it, then silicone it from inside. Even if you blow the compression driver, you can still unscrew it from inside. The horn however would be a permanent part of the cab.
I just use window/door weatherstripping foam. It is a closed cell foam that comes in 10 ft. rolls of any thickness or width. It has adhesive on one side only and you can find it at just about any hardware store.
It's meant to create an airtight seal around doors and windows, so it does a great job of sealing gaps between baffles and speakers. I also use it on all jack plates, handles, etc.
I noticed that left over material. I will probably try to use that. I also thought about the silicone thing but I like to be able to get in there if I need to.
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
If you check out automotive parts places for "camper tape" you'll find a dense, low profile, one-sided tape that's perfect for not only gasketting but also for lining your grill stand off. One roll will be more than enough for multiple cabs and not dent your wallet with shipping costs or unneeded expense.
I found it better than any weather stripping because of its very low profile.
I found it better than any weather stripping because of its very low profile.
I didn't use any sealing gasket on either of my 6ND410 and have not noticed any problems in my 2 cabinets. They are attached with coarse thread drywall screws.
Both my 15/6/1 and my 12/6/1 cant handle the low B on my Sadowsky. They both just kinda fart out at around half volume on usimg my Markbass f500 head. Im no where near full volume. So it must be something with cabs, crossovers or drivers.
I am at a complete loss at where to begin troubleshooting.
The same head drives my berg ae410 without batting an eye.
Please help!
Sorry for the typos. Typed on my iphone.
I am at a complete loss at where to begin troubleshooting.
The same head drives my berg ae410 without batting an eye.
Please help!
Sorry for the typos. Typed on my iphone.
Gotta be something wrong with the crossover. I'm pushing a Carvin BX1200 bridged into a fEARful and I can crank it and hammer on my low B without farting out the 3015LF.
If you haven't already, register on the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] and ask there.
That's what I was afraid of. I ordered the crossovers from Leland. I guess I could have wired them incorrectly. I am getting sound out of each of the 3 drivers in both the 15/6/1 and 12/6/1.
At first, I thought maybe I hadn't seated the large drivers in each cab correctly because it's like they're trying to move when the maximum excursion starts but can't. So, I took out the big drivers sealed with gasket tape and re-installed with recex screws.
But now I'm thinking it must be the crossovers. There's 3 crossovers in each cab (1 for each of the drivers -- low, mid, and high. At least that's how Leland makes them).
I've wired the crossovers by going to the + and - listed on the low crossover, the jumping that connection to the next crossover. Does this make sense? Should I first split the input + and - six different ways instead of jumping?
Of course the problem could be with the crossovers themselves.
Are the any other troubleshooting things I could try?
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