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fEARful™ Part Twelve (12)

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Yeah, obviously the 1/4" jacks are leaking, but after some rooting around yesterday, I'm pretty sure the distortion is coming from the mid driver itself.

I guess I'll have to double check all the wiring next.

Uh oh. Read my post/see my pics a few pages back and in my build thread. Possibly you screwed up the mid crossover like I did. Easy fix though. Do you have a farty/distorted sound coming just through the mid at only high volumes or at all volumes? I got the farty sound when trying to play above bedroom levels. It helps to have the crossover wired correctly. :eyebrow:
 
mikeddd said:
Uh oh. Read my post/see my pics a few pages back and in my build thread. Possibly you screwed up the mid crossover like I did. Easy fix though. Do you have a farty/distorted sound coming just through the mid at only high volumes or at all volumes? I got the farty sound when trying to play above bedroom levels. It helps to have the crossover wired correctly. :eyebrow:

Yeah that sounds about right, somewhere between farty and static, and at all volume levels, but more pronounced at higher volumes.

I ordered the crossovers preassembled from speaker hardware though, assuming that would take any guess work out of assembling them myself.
 
It's highly doubtful Leland messed up. Check your wiring to make sure you don't have a stray strand of wire shorting something out. Being that you have to go into the cab, take a look at the crossovers. Make sure there's no solder bridge messing things up (I doubt it, but since you'll be in there...) How much stuffing is in the midchamber? Is the midchamber sealed? I.E. is there glue or silicone sealing the hole where the wire goes into the chamber?
 
First coat of Duratex went on last night. It's starting to look good...at least to me. ;)



In this pic you can see the rough parts on the side from the Bondo filler not sanded completely down. This was my first time working with Bondo and, man, does that stuff set quickly. I started on that side and got a bit too much on. I thought I had sanded it enough to not show much behind the duratex but the light color shows it. With a couple more thick coats and the hardware in place it will not be as noticeable.

Dude you are styling! I love your concept!
 
Alright gents, these creamsicle enclosures have got me wondering, what are you guys using to tint your Duratex? Are you bringing them to the Home Depot paint department, or what?

Lonnybass
 
Grills- for people who have had the Reliable Hardware metal ones with the edges bent over by them, then mounted with their standoff kit - do you have the grills fit tight within the front lip, and the bottom of the bent edges brought down tight to the front baffle board, or do you have the grill float loose within the front lip of the cab, and not touch the front baffle board? Not sure what to expect vibration-wise.
 
Alright gents, these creamsicle enclosures have got me wondering, what are you guys using to tint your Duratex? Are you bringing them to the Home Depot paint department, or what?

Lonnybass

The guys at Acrytech can match any Sherwin Williams 6*** color code. Just call them and they are great to work with. They are very fast, too. They can ship it out same day.

Brighter colors are a bit more expensive. My orange was more expensive but not by much. You also have to order a gallon for the custom color. My gallon was around $73. Not bad, I thought. I also got the roller from them, as well, for around $5.

They were great to deal with.
 
Grills- for people who have had the Reliable Hardware metal ones with the edges bent over by them, then mounted with their standoff kit - do you have the grills fit tight within the front lip, and the bottom of the bent edges brought down tight to the front baffle board, or do you have the grill float loose within the front lip of the cab, and not touch the front baffle board? Not sure what to expect vibration-wise.

I got my grill kit from Leland and it had a 1 inch bend on the edges with the 1 inch stand-offs. I chose to trim a bit off of the edges and let the grill "float" with the stand-offs to make sure there was minimal vibration. If you ordered from Reliable, you could get a 1/2" bend on the edges and just use stand-offs to hold the grill if worried about vibration. With the grill, there are really lots of options. It's mainly just protection for the drivers, so it's really up to you.
 
Bardley, I think you are now obligated to get an Orange amp head for that.

Something like this: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] (or maybe something less expensive...good grief)

a friend of mine is an endorser and he raves about his amp. I thought about building an enclosure for my Shuttle and duratex it. I may build a small rack case for a beefy power amp to sit on top. Not sure yet. At least the Shuttle is silver and will not look bad on top. It's a good thing I don't play a Markbass head. :smug: ;)
 
The guys at Acrytech can match any Sherwin Williams 6*** color code. Just call them and they are great to work with. They are very fast, too. They can ship it out same day.

Brighter colors are a bit more expensive. My orange was more expensive but not by much. You also have to order a gallon for the custom color. My gallon was around $73. Not bad, I thought. I also got the roller from them, as well, for around $5.

They were great to deal with.

Let's say I already have a container of black Duratex here at the shop - is tinting an option through a local hardware store? Are they using anything special at Acrytech?

Lonnybass
 
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