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fEARful™ Part Twelve (12)

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#681
Been reading all these fearful posts and I'm nearly ready. so, the million dollar question is..... will a 12126 make me as happy/happier than a 15/6? I have 2 unused 3012LFs bought at a real old price, 2 8X4 sheets of 13mm baltic birch, a pile of corners, Plenty of duratex left over, PL premium, table saw, router etc. Just finished 2 BFM omnitop 12 PA tops (wonderful things).
 
#685
Josh Pelican said:
I'd be better of building it anyway. I don't think LDS shipping me a 1515/66 is a good idea. BHO would be a better option, but building it would be so much more rewarding/awesome.

Gonna be looking over ALL of the 15/6 builds to see the exact supplies/tools needed. If I can, I'll start it before 2012 hits.
Click to expand...

build it yourself and experiment with a port extension as shown here:

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if you want to get super duper low low low (but still amazingly tight) bottom end
 
#686
Day/Coat #2 of truck bed liner will have finished curing by the time I am done with work. I spray painted the front baffles and port interior with some flat black and rolled on the outside surfaces.

I was surprised how easy the textured surface was to make, and it is nice not really having to worry about stroke marks.

Now I just want to get the cabs reassembled.
 
#687
dhomer said:
Menards has been my local source. The larger stores stock arauco and their version of baltic birch. These are the only two types of plywood stores like this stock that is suitable for speaker building.

Arauco is relatively cheap, but the downside is warpage. Menard's 4x8 baltic birch is slightly different from its 5x5 cousin, but it is still very suitable.

Beyond that, i'd strongly suggest doing some searching at non-chain store lumberyards
Click to expand...

Good advise. Thank you.

Against my better judgement I think I'm starting to lean towards building my own. I'm hearing a lot of love for the 15/6 and 12/6. How about a 12/12/6. Or a 12/12/6/1. Is that even possible?
 
#690
::::BASSIST:::: said:
If it were me I would stick to the plans.
Click to expand...

I agree. If the OP is really worried about low end response, then the extended port shelf as listed in the plans is the way to go. The extended shelf is a trade off though, you trade low end sensitivity for extended low end response.

My 15/6 has the longer port shelf, and I've been happy with it.
 
#691
wounded horse said:
Been reading all these fearful posts and I'm nearly ready. so, the million dollar question is..... will a 12126 make me as happy/happier than a 15/6? I have 2 unused 3012LFs bought at a real old price, 2 8X4 sheets of 13mm baltic birch, a pile of corners, Plenty of duratex left over, PL premium, table saw, router etc. Just finished 2 BFM omnitop 12 PA tops (wonderful things).
Click to expand...

Yes. If I'd had the extra cash and the extra room in the car, I'd have gone 1212/6 instead of 15/6. I'm really happy with my 15/6, but the 4 ohm 1212/6 would just kill.
 
#692
I know not many of you have the tweet in your fEarful, but for those who do, did you experience a sympathetic vibration on certain notes from the tweet l-pad? It's the springs inside the l-pad that are rattling. It's more like a "chiming" sound, actually.

I'm 100% certain it's coming from there b/c when it occurs, if I push on the l-pad knob or faceplate it stops. I also get the same sound when I tap on the l-pad with my finger.

The l-pad isn't defective. It works just fine but the buzzing is very distracting. I've got no air leaks and the grill isn't buzzing. Any ideas? Anyone else experience this?

Other than this little thing I'm stupidly happy with my cab. I've yet to play it outside my 12'x12'x8' office but it sounds damn good in here. I can only turn it up so much b/c everything in here starts rattling to the point that you don't hear the notes, just the stuff buzzing around on the shelves...and falling off the shelves. The electric meter/cable box/etc is on the other side of one wall of this room. It rattles thru the sheetrock and brick. Not kidding either. :bassist: I love the clarity of this thing. You turn it up and it doesn't compress. The drivers don't start to sound different. They sound like they are supposed to, just much louder.
 
#693
mikeddd said:
I've yet to play it outside my 12'x12'x8' office but it sounds damn good in here. I can only turn it up so much b/c everything in here starts rattling to the point that you don't hear the notes, just the stuff buzzing around on the shelves...and falling off the shelves. ....................I love the clarity of this thing. You turn it up and it doesn't compress. The drivers don't start to sound different. They sound like they are supposed to, just much louder.
Click to expand...

+1, same experience with my rig at my home, LMAO.... my rig actually causes subsidence (2 x 15 subs) also causes me to have a massive case of the grins :D
 
#694
wounded horse said:
Been reading all these fearful posts and I'm nearly ready. so, the million dollar question is..... will a 12126 make me as happy/happier than a 15/6? I have 2 unused 3012LFs bought at a real old price, 2 8X4 sheets of 13mm baltic birch, a pile of corners, Plenty of duratex left over, PL premium, table saw, router etc. Just finished 2 BFM omnitop 12 PA tops (wonderful things).
Click to expand...
i'd go for the 12/6 + 12 sub.... just for the added modular options you get
 
#696
mikeddd said:
I'm 100% certain it's coming from there b/c when it occurs, if I push on the l-pad knob or faceplate it stops. I also get the same sound when I tap on the l-pad with my finger.

The l-pad isn't defective. It works just fine but the buzzing is very distracting. I've got no air leaks and the grill isn't buzzing. Any ideas? Anyone else experience this?
Click to expand...

An easy fix it seems to me would be plumbers strap with a gasket stretched across the back of the lpad, screwed to the box. I mount mine to cab, not the plate, never had anybody have this happen that I know of.
 
#697
BurningSkies said:
I agree. If the OP is really worried about low end response, then the extended port shelf as listed in the plans is the way to go. The extended shelf is a trade off though, you trade low end sensitivity for extended low end response.

My 15/6 has the longer port shelf, and I've been happy with it.
Click to expand...

Both my 15/6 tube and 15 sub have 3 inch port shelf extensions. With my SVT it makes a lot of sense. It tightened up the low end and introduced more of a sealed cab character. The low EQ point on the SVT is 40 Hz, so turning that up more than makes up for the lost sensitivity.

I took my rig on its first gig voyage last night .... outdoor music festival in Keene, New Hampshire.

These cabs are unbelievable. Lots of comments from sound guys and musicians.

I let the bass player in the band after us use my rig so I could stand out front and listen.

These cabs are unbelievable.
 

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#700
lelandcrooks said:
An easy fix it seems to me would be plumbers strap with a gasket stretched across the back of the lpad, screwed to the box. I mount mine to cab, not the plate, never had anybody have this happen that I know of.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the CP does vibrate quite a bit, but no other noises from that area other than the "chiming" from the l-pad. I sealed up the Speakons and the l-pad with bathtub silicone very well. I'll be taking off the CP today (so glad I didn't silicone that to the box!) today to see what I can see. I'd rather not take off the grill and woofer if I don't have to. More to follow.
 
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