Ryan, you make some good points. If the PL doesnt stick to metal, that certainly is an issue. I think I'll test the gorilla glue on some foam I have and see what results.
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fEARful Part Twelve (12)
- Thread starter greenboy
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I was thinking about it some more and shouldn't those holes be filled with epoxy? So for sticking epoxy to metal, if that is the case, I think GG would be better. But I could be wrong.
IMHO, having the 5 dollar thing of GG will serve you well in the future anyway. Much superior for precision use as compared to the caulking gun applicator.
If you do want to use PL, be sure to use some kind of applicator. And don't rush it. GG dries a LOT faster so that's another plus.
IMHO, having the 5 dollar thing of GG will serve you well in the future anyway. Much superior for precision use as compared to the caulking gun applicator.
If you do want to use PL, be sure to use some kind of applicator. And don't rush it. GG dries a LOT faster so that's another plus.
Thanks again Ryan. I tried the gorilla glue on the foam and strangely enough it no worky. I left it for an hour and could easily pry it apart. I did mix the epoxy correctly so I guess it just doesnt work with the foam?
Then again, I could have messed it up... don't see how though.
I'll try the PL tomorrow.
Then again, I could have messed it up... don't see how though.
I'll try the PL tomorrow.
Did you follow the instructions on the gorilla glue?
You need to get both surfaces wet and then clamp them together, and wait 4 hours.
Hope that helps---easy to miss those get the surfaces wet instructions.
Definitely missed that.
It might be tricky to get the inside of a hole wet which is on the inside of the cabinet.
I'll give it another look.
It might be tricky to get the inside of a hole wet which is on the inside of the cabinet.
I'll give it another look.
Where can you get Duratex in Europe? I finally threw the towell and now I plan to buy Warnex from Thomann (black only) for my 1x15 cabs. Thanks
Here:
Tuff Cab⢠Speaker Cabinet Paint - Black 2.5Kg ONLY £18.89 IN STOCK (13 Sep 2011)
same as duratex
Tuff Cab⢠Speaker Cabinet Paint - Black 2.5Kg ONLY £18.89 IN STOCK (13 Sep 2011)
same as duratex
Wounded Horse: Looking great! 1212/6 going to be LOUD. Is that 3/4" ply you're using? It looks thicker than a 1/2".
If Gorilla glue is working it will foam up a little after maybe 20-30 minutes, and it's pretty obvious usually. The reaction it has to water is really obvious after just a short time.
What I do with hurricane/t-nuts is get the outside surface where the washer-like extrusion hits the flat part of the wood, and then get the little tine thingies wet too. You can use a wet q-tip to damp the insert point if you want too.
#8 screws don't fit through the grille holes, so make it #6, 1 3/4" with matching #6 hinged screw cover
the rubber stoppers are 1" tall from True Value
stoppers $0.60
screws $.15
Covers $0.23
total cost about $8
no savings over the kits available online, but I like that its one less thing I have to order ahead online
interior shot
the rubber stoppers are 1" tall from True Value
stoppers $0.60
screws $.15
Covers $0.23
total cost about $8
no savings over the kits available online, but I like that its one less thing I have to order ahead online
interior shot
I thought that in the pics. No, it's 12mm baltic birch.
As an aside, which internal parts do I do with the egg crate foam? I'm thinking top, both sides and rear panel but not the baffle. Am I near?
Correct, everything but the baffle. I did cover the midchamber, however.
Put a little on the shelf if there's room between/around the crossovers. Be sure not to block the port at the back. I stopped about 2" short of the port.
Put a little on the shelf if there's room between/around the crossovers. Be sure not to block the port at the back. I stopped about 2" short of the port.
Is there a more specific name for those 'rubber stoppers'? I'd like to buy some of those and having the exact name would help. Unfortunately they dont have True Value hardware stores up here in Vancouver Canada.
I'll be looking into getting some of those screw cover things too.
Yeah that should work with the wet Q-tip in the hole. It might be tricky getting the water to adhere to the metal of the T- Nuts though... especially on the teeth.
Thanks a lot. It's cheaper and I could choose colours. And I was already thinking of buying a couple of small pieces from Bluearan (I bought other items from them and I am very happy with their service).
I must reconsider which paint is ideal, I guess it will be "Tuff Cab Paint" instead of Warnex.
Thanks a lot, I enjoyed your pics, there are many interesting details in them.
Yesterday I noticed I screw up something in my 2 cabs: I made one of the 4 sides (2 per cab) a "mirror image" of the correct side. A really stupid mistake, when I was so picky about minor details!
So I have 3 right sides, one left side. The problem is that the handle is moved towards the rear side instead of the front. I cannot use this panel inside out because I cannot remove the braces without seriously damaging the panel (glue is really stronger than I thought). So I guess I'll leave the handle 3cm behind the center instead of 3 cm ahead of the center.
It's awkward, aestheically ugly... but it does not look that bad functionally... I made my mind about it
Out of this incident I am close to finish.
let us know how you get on with the tuff cab paint, ive used the warnex paint on my fEARful stack and tbh i'm not very satisfied with it, it chips far too easily for my liking, i'm tempted to get a tin of tuff cab to try, will wait for other opinions 1st tho
i really like the different colour options
i really like the different colour options
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