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fEARful™ Part Twelve (12)

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#742
Hmmm.... the glue I used on my build is really horrible stuff to work with (Bison Timbermax Express). Sticks to everything, doesn't seem to harden if it is too thick, foams up more than I expected with fairly large bubbles sometimes.

Anyway, the cab is together and I have started to round the edges and trim off the excess glue: Oobly - TalkBass Wiki

Scraping the glue in areas where it is thick and hasn't hardened in the centre makes the process rather messy! :spit: yech.

Is this the same way the proper stuff (PL Premium) behaves or is this stuff not a good match?
 
#743
Oobly said:
Hmmm.... the glue I used on my build is really horrible stuff to work with (Bison Timbermax Express). Sticks to everything, doesn't seem to harden if it is too thick, foams up more than I expected with fairly large bubbles sometimes.

Anyway, the cab is together and I have started to round the edges and trim off the excess glue: Oobly - TalkBass Wiki

Scraping the glue in areas where it is thick and hasn't hardened in the centre makes the process rather messy! :spit: yech.

Is this the same way the proper stuff (PL Premium) behaves or is this stuff not a good match?
Click to expand...

PL doesn't really behave like that. PL reminded me of creamy peanut butter. It pretty much stays on where you put it and it didn't bubble at all.
 
#744
mikeddd said:
Bardley, it looks FANTASTIC! I like the attention to detail; you even painted the grill mounts white. :cool: Hope you get many happy years out of that beautiful cab.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Mike. Again, your build thread was a tremendous help in the build process. Glad you caught that washer on the L-Pad thing before I had mounted mine. ;) Mine would have done the same thing.
 
#746
Bardley: Does your grill touch the tweeter horn? It doesn't look like it. How did you avoid that? Was it your "baffle inset mod" that prevented it? I'll be modding my grill and possibly fabricating spacers of some kind to make the grill mounts taller, unless I can find taller feet locally, which I really doubt.
 
#747
I'm going to have to do a little surgery on the grill. The bent over lip is too long. So, when you tighten the mounting screws to hold the grill down, the lip contacts the baffle before the screw is tight. And you wind up with a bent grill and some sympathetic vibration. Also, the grill is the exact size of the baffle which results in all 4 edges of the screen contacting the cab...more vibration.

Although I like a folded lip on grills, I don't have a metal brake to bend sheet metal. So, I'm just going to Dremel the grill "flat". I.E. take off the lip entirely and about a 1/4" on all four sides to make a free-floating grill. I thought about getting an expanded metal grill from Reliable but I'd be looking at $45 plus shipping. I'm broke right now, so that ain't happening. I'll do the grill mod this weekend. The grill is already off the cab which makes me paranoid. Those drivers are expensive....and I've got a todder at home. :eek:
 
#748
Mike,
My horn doesn't touch the grill because of the little baffle inset on that side I mentioned. I actually did take about 1/2" off the lip of the grill the entire way around. I used snips for some of it and the dremel with the cut off wheel for the rest. That still left the lip, but it doesn't touch the baffle. I leveled the grill (since the one side was a bit lower) by super gluing a couple rubber washers to the bottom of the stand-offs on that side to make them a bit longer. It worked great and since they are below the grill you don't even see them. I used 2" #10 screws to mount them. I found some at the hardware store that already had white painted heads and I used a #10 nylon washer with the screw to contact the grill.
 
#749
Mikeddd I left about 1/16 of an inch off each side of the grill and am using a flat panel like you are proposing.

It works fantastically and never had any vibration issues that needed solving to begin with.

Everything is painted black, so unless you are to go up and try and see a little gap between the grill and the cab, it isn't there.

$40 cheaper to get them flat from reliablehardware.com came cut to size and safely shipped. I was worried about some of the bent grill shipping stories online.
 
#750
Nightlyraider said:
Mikeddd I left about 1/16 of an inch off each side of the grill and am using a flat panel like you are proposing.

It works fantastically and never had any vibration issues that needed solving to begin with.

Everything is painted black, so unless you are to go up and try and see a little gap between the grill and the cab, it isn't there.

$40 cheaper to get them flat from reliablehardware.com came cut to size and safely shipped. I was worried about some of the bent grill shipping stories online.
Click to expand...

I agree. Mine's flat too. I did the same thing about 1/16th or so smaller than the space. You don't really want it to be a press fit anyway. Also, Reliable sells the baffle stand off kit if you want to use that with or instead of the edge stand offs. If you go with expanded, the kit works without a lot of work. If you use one of the mesh stocks that has narrow hole spacing, you'll probably need to drill it out for their mounting screws.
 
#752
Thanks guys, for all the grill hints. Obviously, we all kinda figured the same things out, though I wish I'd have figured it out sooner. LOL! I'm using black, 2" drywall screws with plastic cup washers and they are great. I will need to figure out how to make spacers/extensions for the grill mounts (feet) as even after I make the grill flat, it will still contact the tweet horn. I am tempted to use my router and recess the tweet horn into the baffle, but I'm too chicken **** to do so. If I screwed it up I'd probably bury the router bit in my skull in a fit of anger...and that could put a serious damper on my weekend. ;) Probably, some spacers on just two or three of the grill mounts in the tweet area would work. Putting washers b/t the cab and the foot, you'd never see them (as Bardley said). Especially if I paint them black first. Hmmm.

Over the past few days the grill developed sympathetic vibrations to certain notes and it's very annoying. Maybe they were there before but I didn't hear them due to that washer on the l-pad chiming like a doorbell. I'm playing along, grooving to the deep, clear, punchy notes that the fEarful puts out when suddenly there's a big *bzzzzzpt!* that just jumps out from the grill on certain notes. At bedroom practice levels it is REALLY distracting.

I'm convinced that a totally floating grill is the way to go. My Avatar 212 has a floating grill and it makes zero noise no matter what you're playing. I have tin snips and a Dremel. The Dremel will make a way cleaner line but will take 5x as long. Oh well. It's a 3-beer job, then. :D

Thanks again.


Mike
 
#754
Duly note, Bardley. I've got snips but they are old. As in O-L-D "old". The cutoff wheels I use are the reinforced ones with the fiberglass threads in them....although that grill is pretty thick and there is a lot of grill I have to cut off. I may go buy new snips as I really don't have a lot of time to devote to projects this weekend. Thanks for the tip.
 
#756
I think I paid $100ish for two 15/6 sized flat grills + two mounting kits + shipping. I got the small hole fancy shmancy powder coated kind though, fairly sure the expanded metal is cheaper.

You have to slightly enlarge the holes but it is a piece of cake with a power drill and the holes guide the bit for good looks.

And I finally have a #1 for you, because I know; pics or it didn't happen.

6131409347_61706655cb.jpg


15/6 x2 on the left, basement PA in the middle, my sadface neglected Epifani stack on the right (It definitely is lonely now that the Kappalite LFs showed up)
 
#757
edwinhurwitz said:
I discovered that my 15/6/1 and 12/6/1 have opposite polarity. Right now, with my amp set for reverse polarity on one channel, both speakers seem to suck into the cabinet on the leading edge of each note. So, I'm wondering if it's best to have them do that or push out on the leading edge.

Thoughts, recommendations?

TIA
Click to expand...

I'm late catching up, but didn't see anyone offer actual suggestions...

Depending on whether the problem is in the input or output wiring, the fix might be rather simple.

First, open her up and follow the wires between the input jack plate, the crossovers, and the drivers. Make sure you can clearly identify the positive input and follow it through. Do the same for the negative.

If the output wires are crossed to the speaker, just unscrew the speaker terminals and swap the wires. If the input wires are crossed to the input jack, unplug the wires from the jack and reverse them. If the problem is between your crossover boards... you may have soldering to do, and will need more time. Of course, if everything is connected with quick-connect spades, then all should go pretty quick.

Dekker
 
#758
Maiden voyage with my new 15/6 last night. No PA support- not missed either. The fEarful is quite a bit louder than my 4-10, and sounds nothing short of amazing. I didn't expect to gain headroom by changing cabs, but I gained alot. Everything else said about a fEarful that sounds too good to be true, is simply true. If you don't have one, you need one.
My 2-10 / 4-10 GK Goldline cabs w/aluminum drivers are officially for sale cheap. I'll take $250 for the pair. Shipping will be additional. I'm in central Florida. Will separate the cabs. Any takers ?
[email protected]
 
#759
So it turns out the rattling from the cab is not the grill, but sounds like its the 3015LF. I had it at a large car show today and it REALLY sucked that I had to play thru a distorted cab for 4 hrs with hundreds of people watching and a steady stream of people listening as they were walking by. This event had over 100,000 people. Should of brought my 12/6! Oh well.

I've never had my 15/6 over 300 or 400w since I got it a couple months ago. I can't see how I blew the driver. I am going to take the driver out and see what's happening internally, but any suggestions as what it might be?

I had the grill completely off so it definitely wasn't that, as I had originally thought. As I said, it sounds like its coming from the driver. Sort of a distorted rattle sound which is very obvious when any lower notes are played. Basically if I am not playing the G string it sounds distorted.
 
#760
::::BASSIST:::: said:
So it turns out the rattling from the cab is not the grill, but sounds like its the 3015LF. I had it at a large car show today and it REALLY sucked that I had to play thru a distorted cab for 4 hrs with hundreds of people watching and a steady stream of people listening as they were walking by. This event had over 100,000 people. Should of brought my 12/6! Oh well.

I've never had my 15/6 over 300 or 400w since I got it a couple months ago. I can't see how I blew the driver. I am going to take the driver out and see what's happening internally, but any suggestions as what it might be?

I had the grill completely off so it definitely wasn't that, as I had originally thought. As I said, it sounds like its coming from the driver. Sort of a distorted rattle sound which is very obvious when any lower notes are played. Basically if I am not playing the G string it sounds distorted.
Click to expand...

I had a similar situation with a Kappa 15LFa that I bought a couple months ago. Sent it back to Eminence, and their diagnosis was that the "spider came loose from the coil". I don't know exactly what that means, but they replaced the speaker under warranty. Like you, anything below the G string gave me distortion, even at low volume.

Sounds like you may have the same problem. That should be covered under Eminence's 7 year warranty. I had my replacement in about a week.
 
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