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fEARful™ Part Twelve (12)

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Almost done with my 15/6, only to mount the grill-cloth-frame-thingy in some way. It's now squeezed in place and will probably start living its own life when I crank the volume above bedroom levels :)

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And together:
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The 3015lf has an integral gasket... dump the rubber washer and crank it down one tight [not too tight]. While you are in there check your wiring and solder points.

Is your mid driver gasketed - the 18sound mid has no integral gasket. Is the wire hole to the mid sealed?

Check for leaks - they whistle. A low level low frequency sine wave makes leaks pretty easy to find. Put a rubber tube in your ear and use it like a stethoscope.

2mm thick double sided tape on the back of the driver flange.

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this is white but you can get it in black. The standard factory applied eminence rear "gasket" is inadequate. Paper I think. The first thing I take off.

trim off the excess with a stanley knife after it's all pulled down tight. Use shakeproof washers but not rubber washers. You want a solid screw + washer pulling down tight onto something soft that will bottom out and give an airtight seal.

Black dum dum putty - halfords or other motor store - will also do it. The driver must be airtight as must the rest of the cab. Two golden rules: airtight and braced within an inch of its life. Even inset handles must be airtight, that is, gasket taped. The speakon must be airtight. 6.3mm jacks are for telephone exchanges only. See my 12126 build pics. Slightly overbraced if anything but I'm not bothered to a few pounds. It's the reason why most commercial cabs can't produce fundamentals. A peavey or a hartke 410 braced the way a 12126 fearful is braced would not be commercially viable. So they make a box in 15mm or even 18mm but not braced. Screwed on back on some, no gasket or back panel bracing, no front to back bracing. Most of them NFG.

More pics of my build to follow next few days.

Thanks guys. Internally things look fine. I'm going to buy double sided tape and do both drivers.
 
Please forgive if this question has been answered before. (I think I've read everything, but that doesn't mean it all sunk in.)

Will it screw things up to extend the speaker grill all the way south to cover the bottom ports too? Dunno if that might mess with how much area of open space is required for them to work optimally...

thanks...
 
Will it screw things up to extend the speaker grill all the way south to cover the bottom ports too? Dunno if that might mess with how much area of open space is required for them to work optimally...

It wouldn't work to extend a grille like dexter.nl's, because the frame width is about half the height of the port.
 
Please forgive if this question has been answered before. (I think I've read everything, but that doesn't mean it all sunk in.)

Will it screw things up to extend the speaker grill all the way south to cover the bottom ports too? Dunno if that might mess with how much area of open space is required for them to work optimally...

thanks...

i dont know for sure, i am no expert, but if you were to make the whole cab 1/8 - 1/4" deeper all round and put a grill full face (retaining the port shelves dimensions), that might just work, OTOH it could reduce the air flow in the ports and whistle through the grill.

the fearful forum is probably the best place to ask such a question.


@ dexter ..... beautiful work, stunning
 
rshack said:
Please forgive if this question has been answered before. (I think I've read everything, but that doesn't mean it all sunk in.)

Will it screw things up to extend the speaker grill all the way south to cover the bottom ports too? Dunno if that might mess with how much area of open space is required for them to work optimally...

thanks...

This has been addressed previously. I don't have a link handy, but as far as I recall, it is unsupported by Greenboy (emphatically, too). You are correct that the dimensions would have to change, which would cause it to drift into nEARful territory. You are of course free to try, but don't call it a fEARful.

Edited to fix referenced post.
 
This has been addressed previously. I don't have a link handy, but as far as I recall, it is unsupported by Greenboy (emphatically, too). You are correct that the dimensions would have to change, which would cause it to drift into nEARful territory. You are of course free to try, but don't call it a fEARful.

This. Greenboy has been outspoken about not covering the porting, and it remaining unobstructed. If you're worried about critters, a wire mesh with a fairly wide weave can be attached across the backside of the port. Don't obstruct the front.
 
This has been addressed previously. I don't have a link handy, but as far as I recall, it is unsupported by Greenboy (emphatically, too). You are correct that the dimensions would have to change, which would cause it to drift into nEARful territory. You are of course free to try, but don't call it a fEARful.

This. Greenboy has been outspoken about not covering the porting, and it remaining unobstructed. If you're worried about critters, a wire mesh with a fairly wide weave can be attached across the backside of the port. Don't obstruct the front.
Thanks, guys... that's what I needed to know...

Not worried about critters, just a matter of aesthetics... I think I'd like the look produced by a single speaker grill covering the whole front surface (within the cabinet's rectangular outer edges)... but I don't care about that enough to mess with his thorough design...

That man has given us a major gift and I have no desire to screw it up... thanks for the info... it will help me not do something dumb ;-)
 
Hey guys, Still working on my first 12/6 fEARful build, and was curious on how you ensure the insert handles are airtight, as well as the plate for the speakon cables. My original thought was to use PL glue on the inside but that would make them un removable...
 
Hey guys, Still working on my first 12/6 fEARful build, and was curious on how you ensure the insert handles are airtight, as well as the plate for the speakon cables. My original thought was to use PL glue on the inside but that would make them un removable...

Gasket tape or make your own out of the leftover gasket material that comes with the Penn Elcomm cup handles. OR, you PL a piece of scrap wood behind the handle on the inside of the cab. This serves double-duty. Seals the handle air-tight and give the screws that mount the handle more wood to bite into.
 
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