Dexter.NL: Your cab is stunning. You did some job with the tweed. I could never put Toxlex on and have it look that good. Congrats!
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fEARful Part Twelve (12)
- Thread starter greenboy
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Almost done with my 15/6, only to mount the grill-cloth-frame-thingy in some way. It's now squeezed in place and will probably start living its own life when I crank the volume above bedroom levels
absolutely gorgeous!
This is what I have in mind for mine. How did you mount the grill cloth frame. That is one detail that I have not worked out. I would like it to be removable but don't want it to rattle...
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
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- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
Or both.
When I did my 15 sub I backed the handle cut outs with pieces of ply that were PL'ed in place and I also ran a bead of silicone caulk around the edge of the mounting plate. I wouldn't use a ton of silicone inside the cab because it's been suggested that the outgassing may do bad things to the speaker's adhesive. I have the spring loaded handles and on my 15sub theres never been a vibration issue. On my 15/6 I have the same handles and theyre sealed but without the backing wood and they sometimes do rattle and I have to make sure theyre situated to stop them. I also liked the extra wood thickness there for using longer mounting screws. If you use a silicone based caulk, let it outgas without a speaker to minimize the potential interaction.
For the Jackplate, I did the same thing. A fairly insubstantial bead of caulk around the outer lip of the plate (around where the mounting screws are). To make sure the actual inputs are sealed I used the Neutrik ¼ jacks that have sealed bodies. When I mounted all the hardware I used heat shrink around each of the connectors (once wired), then I filled any visible space in the shrink with silicone as well. I also used silicone around the places the hardware meets the plate and the back side of the screws and bolts.
I'm glad you guys dig my cab as much as I do
That was exactly what I aimed forThe modern technology of the fEARful in an old-school look. It's like the best of both worlds.
Ha, I also got one for about a year now. Using it with this cab might raise the question about a tweed-fetish....
Greenboy pointed me on heavy-duty velcro Peavey used to sell. Six square pieces would be sufficient to keep it in place. Some edge damping might be beneficial too. I'll start my velcro search soon!
- Dec 18, 2000
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- greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
Nothing says "I crap bigger than YOU" quite like a 151515/66 setup.
History has proven I can crap big on stage...Maybe I need another box...
Dexter.nl, your cab looks a LOT like my 12/6 with the brown tweed grille cloth, except I did a natural finish on the birch instead of the blonde tolex. I love how yours turned out! I also play mine with Little Mark II, AND I just got rid of my Hammond organ that looked almost exactly like the one in your pics! I think we might be the same person. 
BTW, I used that super-velcro tape (I think its called Dual Lock, and it's made by 3M) to hold my grille frame in place. Also, I made a little tab of fabric and stapled it so that it hangs out like a little tongue from one edge, so that I would have a way to grab onto the frame and remove it when necessary. Otherwise, once you stick it in place, it's really hard to remove without damaging the cloth.
BTW, I used that super-velcro tape (I think its called Dual Lock, and it's made by 3M) to hold my grille frame in place. Also, I made a little tab of fabric and stapled it so that it hangs out like a little tongue from one edge, so that I would have a way to grab onto the frame and remove it when necessary. Otherwise, once you stick it in place, it's really hard to remove without damaging the cloth.
Nothing says "I crap bigger than YOU" quite like a 151515/66 setup.
Wow, talk about overkill!
I shall call it the "Earth Shaker".
This is pretty much spot on what LDS does, and it seems to work fairly well with no vibration issues.Dexter.nl, your cab looks a LOT like my 12/6 with the brown tweed grille cloth, except I did a natural finish on the birch instead of the blonde tolex. I love how yours turned out! I also play mine with Little Mark II, AND I just got rid of my Hammond organ that looked almost exactly like the one in your pics! I think we might be the same person.
BTW, I used that super-velcro tape (I think its called Dual Lock, and it's made by 3M) to hold my grille frame in place. Also, I made a little tab of fabric and stapled it so that it hangs out like a little tongue from one edge, so that I would have a way to grab onto the frame and remove it when necessary. Otherwise, once you stick it in place, it's really hard to remove without damaging the cloth.
1/4"-20 T nuts.
Has anyone used the Recex screws to hold the speakers in instead of T nuts ? It seems like a quick and easier install with the only drawback maybe being stripping out the wood after a number of in/outs.
Has anyone used the Recex screws to hold the speakers in instead of T nuts ? It seems like a quick and easier install with the only drawback maybe being stripping out the wood after a number of in/outs.
See my 12126 pics a few posts back. I use recex because I had a PITA issue with a turning T nut once. I added pieces of ply to the baffle to give the screws 24mm grip depth. how often are you going to be taking drivers out? If you get a slightly loose recex screw hole, fill it with wood filler and re-drill it. I've used tite bond wood glue mixed with sawdust before successfully.
I built some Bill Fitzmaurice Otops using recex for Eminence Delta pro 12s - a lot heavier than 3012LF neos - and they dont get loose. Use shake proof washers though under the recex head. The 3012lfs are so light i don't see future problems. My Aguilar 212 bass cab has the drivers held in with 8 self tapping screws and they say it's a pro cab... I'm expecting the fearful 12126 to bury it.
I built some Bill Fitzmaurice Otops using recex for Eminence Delta pro 12s - a lot heavier than 3012LF neos - and they dont get loose. Use shake proof washers though under the recex head. The 3012lfs are so light i don't see future problems. My Aguilar 212 bass cab has the drivers held in with 8 self tapping screws and they say it's a pro cab... I'm expecting the fearful 12126 to bury it.
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Nice- what do you mean by a shake proof washer? Also, do you pre-drill a pilot hole for the screws?
My drivers are mounted with screws into wood. No fancy bolts or tnuts, but it sure holds just fine.
I removed my drivers to actually finish the finish on the cabs after using them a good 5-6 months and the drivers were absolutely still firmly in place.
I removed my drivers to actually finish the finish on the cabs after using them a good 5-6 months and the drivers were absolutely still firmly in place.
Has anyone ever had experience tinting Duratex with Mixol? I have a white duratex 3.78L can and not any stores will tint it for me due to "store policy." I would try Mixol, but wondering if it would work?
Otherwise I'll paint the cab white... not my first choice, though.
Otherwise I'll paint the cab white... not my first choice, though.
Yep - your lock washers. Drill the pilot hole the same diameter as the shank on the recex screws, that is, the part the threads "wrap" around.
According to Acrytech's website Duratex is water based, and according to the product page for Mixol on Woodcraft's website:
Mixol Universal Tints are the most concentrated, highest quality tints on the market today. They are compatible with most water, solvent, lacquer and oil based stains, coatings, shellacs, epoxies, waxes, varnishes, wood fillers, etc... "Ease of tinting or mixing" is often cited as the main attribute to Mixol, along with the "sophisticated" color palette.
So since it is water compatible Mixol should work- but try mixing a small sample first to make sure it doesn't have a negative outcome. It may be worth sending an email to Acrytech about the compatibility.
Mixol Universal Tints are the most concentrated, highest quality tints on the market today. They are compatible with most water, solvent, lacquer and oil based stains, coatings, shellacs, epoxies, waxes, varnishes, wood fillers, etc... "Ease of tinting or mixing" is often cited as the main attribute to Mixol, along with the "sophisticated" color palette.
So since it is water compatible Mixol should work- but try mixing a small sample first to make sure it doesn't have a negative outcome. It may be worth sending an email to Acrytech about the compatibility.
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