Payment received March 4th I believe. Its at the UPS store now.
There have been a few challenges along the road trying to put the best cab possible together. Hope to put it to the test soon.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
fEARful Part Twelve (12)
- Thread starter greenboy
- Start date
- Status
There have been a few challenges along the road trying to put the best cab possible together. Hope to put it to the test soon.
Just a heads up: I replaced the Eminence ASD1001 hf driver in my 12/6/1 with a BHM 4540ND. I kept the Dayton waveguide used.
Absolutely worth it, imo. Helluva improvement in hf response for slapping. There was a certain frequency that was not as loud as I would have liked- best way to describe it is as the same frequency as the metal rattles of a tamborine. The BSM delivers it, coated in honey. Love the cab now.
Absolutely worth it, imo. Helluva improvement in hf response for slapping. There was a certain frequency that was not as loud as I would have liked- best way to describe it is as the same frequency as the metal rattles of a tamborine. The BSM delivers it, coated in honey. Love the cab now.
I'm getting ready to build a 151566 and have a question about wood. Can I use the arauco plywood that Lowe's sells or do I specifically need the baltic birch?
I just finished three hours of scraping dried PL off. That stuff sticks like cement...hell, I think it IS cement. I bent my damn scraper trying to get it off.Cab looks much better now. Though the excess on the sides in the port is going to stay there...I think I will just shoot a coat of flat black over it.
- Dec 18, 2000
- 13,201
- 340
- Disclosures
- greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
Best time to remove it externally is right after you got it there ; }
But even a little bit dry, a decent putty knife works.
But even a little bit dry, a decent putty knife works.
dhomer
Commercial User
- Apr 9, 2009
- 675
- 13
- Disclosures
- Owner, Gigmaster Soundworks, Auth. greenboy designs builder, MI
For a 1515/66 I definitely recommend BB. Arauco ain't bad, but... unless you're real lucky to find flat sheets at Lowes' AND have a way to control the humidity in your workshop, arauco has a nasty habit of warping worse than the starship Enterprise.. Yes you will $pend a bit more, but it pays off in ease of assembly and eventual performance.
BTW, I have found the 4x8 BB in Menards here not too bad to work with.. Its not "Real" BB in every sense of the word, but it is 9 ply and it does work better than arauco..
Also be aware, the baffle is 3/4"!!
I went and bought a "stiff" putty knife. It's sort of like a chisel; it doesn't bend much at all. That worked well. I also bought one of those angled bathtub caulk remover tools. It worked pretty good too. Getting the PL out of the port was a huge PITA. But I got it all out and shot another coat of flat black in there.
Of course, then I finished assembling the box and when I put the back on, PL oozed into the port.
Being that the back panel is so large and therefore a prime candidate for air leakage, I ran a thick bead of PL all around the perimeter. I"m just going to shoot a coat of black over it vs. scraping it off. It's all the way at the rear of the port and you won't see it easily. The rest of the port is very clean though...I'm all proud of myself. It took hours to scrape that stuff off! I'm adding pics to my Wiki page. Check it out a little later.
Of course, then I finished assembling the box and when I put the back on, PL oozed into the port.
Being that the back panel is so large and therefore a prime candidate for air leakage, I ran a thick bead of PL all around the perimeter. I"m just going to shoot a coat of black over it vs. scraping it off. It's all the way at the rear of the port and you won't see it easily. The rest of the port is very clean though...I'm all proud of myself. It took hours to scrape that stuff off! I'm adding pics to my Wiki page. Check it out a little later.
New pics are up!
Side note: When it's really hot in the garage and you're dripping sweat and you have PL on your hands/arms, do not wipe your eyes. Yeah, I got PL in both eyes.
<---I looked like that for about two seconds, then I couldn't open them (from the pain, not b/c the were glued shut...didn't get that much PL in there).
In case you're wondering, it burns like acid that is on fire that was dipped in the sun. 16 hours later and my eyes still hurt. That was the bonehead move of the year.
Side note: When it's really hot in the garage and you're dripping sweat and you have PL on your hands/arms, do not wipe your eyes. Yeah, I got PL in both eyes.
<---I looked like that for about two seconds, then I couldn't open them (from the pain, not b/c the were glued shut...didn't get that much PL in there).In case you're wondering, it burns like acid that is on fire that was dipped in the sun. 16 hours later and my eyes still hurt. That was the bonehead move of the year.
triple ditto on the chisel shamizel.
PL in the eyes OUCH.
I wear the latex gloves ..... put 'em on in front of the gf.
she leaves the area.
Then I keep a heap load of paper towels around to get the
excess glue off my gloves if any .... before I pickup the drill or nailer.
I had rags and paper towels right there and I was using them. I guess there was residue on the rubber gloves. It was 101 degrees yesterday and in the garage it had to be at least 110 even though the door was open. I was sweating so much that it was dripping all over the place, even getting on the wood I was trying to glue. I did one of those "wipe forehead with the back of the hand" jobs and two seconds later...work came to a screaming halt. Literally on the screaming part. LOL, what an idiot!
This has been a HUGE learning experience for me. I'm used to working with wood glue, which scrapes off pretty easily when dry. This PL stuff is a different monster completely. Tell you what though, even though the glue isn't totally dried yet, the cab feels SOLID. Can't wait to get it rounded over and Duratexed. Then it'll start to look like a real fEARful and not just a cab with PL smeared all over it.
This has been a HUGE learning experience for me. I'm used to working with wood glue, which scrapes off pretty easily when dry. This PL stuff is a different monster completely. Tell you what though, even though the glue isn't totally dried yet, the cab feels SOLID. Can't wait to get it rounded over and Duratexed. Then it'll start to look like a real fEARful and not just a cab with PL smeared all over it.
I'm right there with ya Mike .... 101 degrees ... that's tough.
at 90 degrees I had a big fan blowing and a ball cap to catch the sweat.
My hands were black for weeks from PL before I started using gloves.
When I starting wearing gloves I couldn't feel the glue then and it ended up
on my tools. Now its gloves and a ton of towels but its great stuff as you know and
very forgiving for non perfect joints.
at 90 degrees I had a big fan blowing and a ball cap to catch the sweat.
My hands were black for weeks from PL before I started using gloves.
When I starting wearing gloves I couldn't feel the glue then and it ended up
on my tools. Now its gloves and a ton of towels but its great stuff as you know and
very forgiving for non perfect joints.
Calling all experts--I need some serious help!
Okay, so I've been trying to figure this out for days, and I'm stumped. I've got the crossover & wiring in place, and everything looks correct, but something's definitely wrong. When I plug in, I only get sound from the 6ND10, and even that is very, very quiet. The switch does work, so that when I switch it to "OFF", the mid goes out. I'm getting no sound whatsoever from the 3012LF, in either switch position.
I'm including pictures below (they're the best I could do), if that helps anyone to figure out what I've done wrong. I have checked everything with a multimeter, and continuity checks out, as far as I can tell. In other words, my soldering seems to be good.
Any ideas? Has anyone else had this problem?
Crossover:
Overall shot:
12" crossover:
Mid crossover:
Close-up:
Okay, so I've been trying to figure this out for days, and I'm stumped. I've got the crossover & wiring in place, and everything looks correct, but something's definitely wrong. When I plug in, I only get sound from the 6ND10, and even that is very, very quiet. The switch does work, so that when I switch it to "OFF", the mid goes out. I'm getting no sound whatsoever from the 3012LF, in either switch position.
I'm including pictures below (they're the best I could do), if that helps anyone to figure out what I've done wrong. I have checked everything with a multimeter, and continuity checks out, as far as I can tell. In other words, my soldering seems to be good.
Any ideas? Has anyone else had this problem?
Crossover:
Overall shot:
12" crossover:
Mid crossover:
Close-up:
I have a cord with a 1/8" plug on one end and two spades on the other; you can make the equivalent by sacrificing a cheap pair of headphones. Plug it into a radio or iPod or something.
Connect the wires directly to the woofer. Does it make any sound at all? If not you have a heap of unhappy.
Now you can step the wired back along the crossover circuit and see what's happening. At some point you have a short.
Connect the wires directly to the woofer. Does it make any sound at all? If not you have a heap of unhappy.
Now you can step the wired back along the crossover circuit and see what's happening. At some point you have a short.
Oh man, this is exactly what I'm paranoid about with building the crossovers! I was already nervous about it...now I'm terrified.
Good luck, Ron; I hope it's something simple. Please let us know what the fix is!
Good luck, Ron; I hope it's something simple. Please let us know what the fix is!
Thanks, ian_s!
I tested the 12 with my iPod, and it works!
Now I just have to figure out where I went wrong.
I tested the 12 with my iPod, and it works!
Now I just have to figure out where I went wrong.
By accident I noticed something that looks wrong to me in your crossover: Look at last picture, 2nd screw from teh left. It can easily short two PCB traces that are possibly intended to be different nodes. In the previous picture it looks worse, in the last I can see there is some small isolation.
By the way, nice cab, I am stealing ideas for mine!
By the way, nice cab, I am stealing ideas for mine!
- Status
