I promised a final update a year ago, which I never posted. But since folks are digging this up, and I' being asked about it:
@Pep The Color was a quart of white Duratex from speaker hardware, applied with a roller.
the final result, with a functional tweeter, was not noticeably different than without the tweeter. Could be my aging ears or flat wounds, idk. I would say the tweeter can be skipped, especially for a noob build. The midrange speaker is fully capable. The kit does not come with a hole drilled for the tweeter knob.
sound wise, It easily outclasses any speaker I have. Warm, full and punchy like you want.
I'm not giggin these days so I have no report on the stage experience.
The claim is you can put it together with "just a screw driver" but that's a lie.
You'll also need clamps, a square of some kind, a drill with a countersink (forester) bit
and of course soldering gear.
Things I would have done different:
If you buy the kit, mark all the lines on the pieces your self, using the plans.
clearly mark out where all the pieces touch on every panel. D
Dry fit it all together and verify that very piece lines up
And double check the alignment as you clue (preferably with a good 90 corner jig clamp!)
@Pep The Color was a quart of white Duratex from speaker hardware, applied with a roller.
the final result, with a functional tweeter, was not noticeably different than without the tweeter. Could be my aging ears or flat wounds, idk. I would say the tweeter can be skipped, especially for a noob build. The midrange speaker is fully capable. The kit does not come with a hole drilled for the tweeter knob.
sound wise, It easily outclasses any speaker I have. Warm, full and punchy like you want.
I'm not giggin these days so I have no report on the stage experience.
The claim is you can put it together with "just a screw driver" but that's a lie.
You'll also need clamps, a square of some kind, a drill with a countersink (forester) bit
and of course soldering gear.
Things I would have done different:
- skipped the tweeter. Not worth the added complexity for a noob
- get a jig or device for accurate 90 clamping
- sprung for the crossover kit from speaker hardware. (especially if you are an electronics noob)
- measured the damn baffle inset on all sides before gluing
If you buy the kit, mark all the lines on the pieces your self, using the plans.
clearly mark out where all the pieces touch on every panel. D
Dry fit it all together and verify that very piece lines up
And double check the alignment as you clue (preferably with a good 90 corner jig clamp!)