fEarful 12/6 kit : a total noob build diary

[Downunderwonder]

If you drill through the side with the lines on it first, dead centre between the lines, you are guaranteed to drill back into the centre of the end on piece from the other side when it's clamped between the lines, no splits with pilot holes, not rocket science. Even if you did get the odd split the PL will stick it straight back together.

 

[Roxbororob]

Completely. I regard screwing into the end of ply to be an utter last resort. All to easy for it to break up if the pilots etc aren't just right or the wood quality not 100%. If I did decide to discard the designed construction and glue and screw I would add internal battens, screw into them and put up with the loss of internal volume.
But I am still bemused why there is such enthusiasm for promoting what to me is a bodge up.

You are entitled to your opinion.

 

[Doufuss]

Thing is, the OP in all likelihood will do this one build. The outlay for a bunch of tools he's going to use once is something he was looking to avoid, to my understanding.

 

[Doufuss]

Get you buddy with the bar clamps to make you up some corner jigs.

Take any 8'' ish square or rectangle of ply. Cut into two triangles, doesn't have to be precise. Cut off a nip of the square corners so the PL can't get it, cut in a 'foot' on the long sides parallel to the short sides for clamp feet. Done.

4 clamps = perfect right angle junction.

Yes, you can back out the screws after the glue sets hard and reuse them. Drill your pilot holes with the boards in the glued position in the clamps. Then proceed with the PL.

I gave you a suggested order of biscuitless rescue construction with screws and clamps a few days ago.

You mean... like this?

 

[Redbrangus]

You mean... like this?View attachment 3839958

 

[Roxbororob]

Thing is, the OP in all likelihood will do this one build. The outlay for a bunch of tools he's going to use once is something he was looking to avoid, to my understanding.

Precisely.

BTW OP, if it's not too late, use #6 screws or ...(horrors) gyproc screws. As said before, you can take them out after the glue is cured to save a few ounces. Fill with putty or glue or drill out to shallow 1/4" holes and pop in some wood plugs for a clear conscience.

 

[Doufuss]

Little round toothpicks fit in those holes pretty snug.

 

[Downunderwonder]

You mean... like this?View attachment 3839958

Nothing like it. Read it again. No jigsaw required only handsaw. End up with two large right angle 'triangles', two right triangle corner snips (glue voids) and 4 right triangle cut-ins (feet stands)

 

[singlemalt]

FWIW, when I built my fEarful 15/6/1’s, I didn’t glue my top panels on, they were held on with dry biscuits and sheet rock screws.

I did this to make it easy to access the inside of the cabs without removing the 3015LF driver. I was messing around with wiring and experimenting with biamping the horn. Also, I was on the fence about the horns, they were added after the build was complete, biamped, and then bypassed completely. It’s a process...I’m ok with tinkering.

Point being, I ran these cabs full bore with only screws holding the tops on.

My advice to this builder is based on him having a drill/screw gun and no other tools. And not buying a bunch of new tools.

So, if it’s assembled with screws and everything fits, I might proceed by removing a panel and gluing it, let it sit, rinse and repeat, rather than going into a full glue up frenzy(I go with the frenzy)

It’s a puzzle with lots of ways to put it together, based on what’s available.

Remember, PL premium does a great job sealing up cracks or gaps.

 

[Redbrangus]

Take any 8'' ish square or rectangle of ply. Cut into two triangles, doesn't have to be precise.

I'm thinking one challenging part of this concept, for this OP, might be to find a truly square piece of plywood to begin with.

 

[Downunderwonder]

I'm thinking one challenging part of this concept, for this OP, might be to find a truly square piece of plywood to begin with.

I am hopeful his mate with the clamps should also have a builder's square to check a piece, and do the cutting.

If not then check the diagonals measure same = good chance it is square enough, now check if it isn't a totally wonky trapezoid thing, opposite sides must be same and it's a pure rectangle.

A trained chimp could do the rest as no real accuracy is required.

 

[mambo4]

On Friday 5-22, I sent an email to Leland regarding the misaligned baffle biscuit routs. I also received the (partial)Deluxe Kit: speakers, wires, deluxe kit: crossover components, screws etc. The packing list had several items marked "out" which was expected , due to the pandemic. As instructed I carefully inspected the delivery and found a few more missing items (notably the PL glue!) I sent a follow up email regarding those items.

The notes on the baggies of screws are my own.

I also borrowed some bar clamps and countersink drill bits from my buddy. So this memorial day build is "All screw, no glue!"

 

[mambo4]

I had to figure out which countersink bit was correct for the screws. I did it by sight at first, and then realized the screw gauge was listed on the packing slip.

 

[mambo4]

Following a recommendation from this thread, I started with the mid range box first. I chance to try out my first counter sink drilling.

First crew split a bit of the wood. I was too timid with the countersink.

Second one I gave a deeper bevel with lots of clearance.

 

[mambo4]

Inspecting the mid range box results, I saw that the corners were not perfect.

I decided to find some corner clamps.

 

[mambo4]

Unfortunately the local Lowes and Home Depot were both out of corner clamps.
I pulled macguyver and picked up some 90 degree deck braces.

I probably should have waited for access to real corner clamps, but I was eager to get bu

 

[mambo4]

Using the deck braces I clamped the left panel and the bottom together and screwed them togtehr. Then I checked the square with my drafting triangle.

It looked ok to me, so I forged on.

 

[mambo4]

Left, bottom, shelf and baffle. I skipped he biscuits on the baffle so that it would line up according to the plans. I assume the PL will end up filling in the unused biscuit routes.

 

[mambo4]

some scary splitting on the front screw, right side. Need to ease up on the aggressive driving, i guess. I discovered later that collar on he countersink bit had slipped , shortening the pilot hole depth , which caused me to press hard on the driver.

Hoping again that the PL can hold up and some sanding will clean this up.

 

[mambo4]

getting ready for the interior box and bracing. I wanted to show how thoroughly I drew out the placement of every board and slat. I wanted to be certain everything was connecting as planned.