Won't be unfilled for long with PL on the job.
Not a big job to halve the biscuits and fill the slots before the real fun. Make sure they go all way in or wait and sand off to flat.
Does PL stick to dry PL?
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fEarful 12/6 kit : a total noob build diary
- Thread starter mambo4
- Start date
Not a big job to halve the biscuits and fill the slots before the real fun. Make sure they go all way in or wait and sand off to flat.
Does PL stick to dry PL?
Too late to (as suggested back in post #38) raise this with Leland? PITA, that's for sure. Were it me, I'd go with PL. pop a few nails in for registration, then screw it together. Finished product should be plenty strong enough. Something of a nuisance having to now fill those nail and screw holes prior to finishing.
I very much doubt Leland would hesitate to remediate the problem... looks like a couple of modified braces would solve half the issue and be cheap to ship. That said, I would just drill pilot holes, slather the PL and drive a pair of screws in to hold the brace while clamping = 3 minutes of extra work.
You're forgetting filling the screw holes with auto body filler and sanding.
OP could go crazy with small blocks screwed onto the panels interior to align the baffle and proceed with clamps. The blocks would need to add up to less than the interior volume lost by shortening the braces.
I think it comes down to OP's penchant for cab building or other cabinetry foreseeable. A heap of clamps + biscuits vs wholesale screws or a just a couple of clamps and a lot less screws.
meh... I doubt I'd bother with all that.
I'd probably use square drive small head trim screws and drive em to countersunk and fill the hole with duratex - or if needed maybe hit the screw heads with an indelible Sharpie and go on with my bad self.
something like these
https://www.amazon.com/GRK-PHEFT8112HP-2-Inch-Screws-Package/dp/B003VCHZ0C
I'd probably use square drive small head trim screws and drive em to countersunk and fill the hole with duratex - or if needed maybe hit the screw heads with an indelible Sharpie and go on with my bad self.
something like these
https://www.amazon.com/GRK-PHEFT8112HP-2-Inch-Screws-Package/dp/B003VCHZ0C
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Is it possible to rent clamps instead of buying?
Some local rental places have most everything...
Some local rental places have most everything...
To the OP - You have the exploded view drawing. Did you physically measure every piece and compare them to the drawing? Curious..
Probably not, but you never can tell. Seems pretty unlikely. Among the disadvantages of using PL Premium is the long clamping time, but you really only need a couple if you are patient enough to do one joint at a time. And you don't need expensive ones...as previously mentioned, HF-quality is probably good enough.
This brings up something that is sometimes overlooked by people wanting to build their own stuff: do you already have the needed tools, or are you willing to invest in them? You need to factor that in to the equation when evaluating the cost of DIY.
And it's something that can quickly spiral up into the thousands, as anybody who has built a cab can attest.
But if a guy were to take his time and find some workarounds, the bare minimum needed would be - a drill; a jigsaw; quick clamps in (2) 6" and (2) 12"; multi-bit screwdriver; tape measure; speedsquare 8"; patience and planning.
But if a guy were to take his time and find some workarounds, the bare minimum needed would be - a drill; a jigsaw; quick clamps in (2) 6" and (2) 12"; multi-bit screwdriver; tape measure; speedsquare 8"; patience and planning.
I'm not sure what part the beer and booze play in this build..............but I am VERY INSPIRED!
I did exactly that. As a total noob I am extra cautious of making any mistakes. I measured every board and marked precisely the points and lines along which the other boards should line up according to the plans downloaded from greenboys site.
When it came to the wonky baffle biscuit routs, I triple checked my measurements, both from the back and front, unwilling to assume a total noob can second guess a pro. But the measurements held up. The baffle was clearly 1/8" too far back.
Everything is exactly to spec, except those routes. The fact that *all*the baffle biscuit routes are off by the same 1/8" suggests the tool used to route must have had an incorrect setting from the front edge for that pass.
While I can imagine some work-arounds, I really believe you need a couple-a-three clamps with the clamping range to handle your largest clamping dimension.
So can screws alone negate the need for clamps?
If not , what is the fewest clamps I can get away with?
"You can never have too many clamps" might be true
But "too many" is out of my budget lol
Do hardware stores sell 90 degree clamping jigs?
I see plenty of DIY versions but that requires bigger tools than I have.
If not , what is the fewest clamps I can get away with?
"You can never have too many clamps" might be true
But "too many" is out of my budget lol
Do hardware stores sell 90 degree clamping jigs?
I see plenty of DIY versions but that requires bigger tools than I have.
There are right-angle clamps, and there are jigs with which you use regular C-clamps. Either might be available at the local big-box...it's worth a look. Rockler and Woodcraft are real go-to resources for little trick stuff like this--they both have big on-line presences, but I can't imagine there's not a Woodcraft somewhere in the Metroplex. You can order online and pick up curbside at Woodcraft if you don't want to brave the pandemic.
If you have some way to securely hold panels at a right angle while you screw them together, you can probably get away without long clamps. I guess. I'm not completely sold on the concept of gluing un-cleated butt joints in 1/2" ply with a polyurethane construction adhesive in the first place, but hey...I guess that's just me.
Obviously you don't really need a jig-saw to assemble a flat pack...at least theoretically. It wouldn't have been the tool I would have chosen for the purpose, but sawing 1/8" off of those two braces to accommodate the misplaced biscuits would have made your life easier, IMO.
If you have some way to securely hold panels at a right angle while you screw them together, you can probably get away without long clamps. I guess. I'm not completely sold on the concept of gluing un-cleated butt joints in 1/2" ply with a polyurethane construction adhesive in the first place, but hey...I guess that's just me.
Obviously you don't really need a jig-saw to assemble a flat pack...at least theoretically. It wouldn't have been the tool I would have chosen for the purpose, but sawing 1/8" off of those two braces to accommodate the misplaced biscuits would have made your life easier, IMO.
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FFS just go buy some clamps - get a couple 30" - a couple 12" - a handful of spring clamps - a couple of those fancy corner clamps if you like.
Then grab a couple more.
less than $50 and you're set for life.
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FFS just go buy some clamps - get a couple 30" - a couple 12" - a handful of spring clamps - a couple of those fancy corner clamps if you like.
Then grab a couple more.
less than $50 and you're set for life.
Let's say you wanted to build the corner clampers from my sketchup drawing. Or any other type of jig or fixture you may need, such as blocks to locate your panels until they could be screwed together.
