fEARful 151566 Build Log

[6thplanet]

My opinion, I don't use the sponge because most people just use tap water which contains all kinda contaminates. Also the temperature shock of a hot tip and wet sponge isn't great either.

I prefer the fluxed brass wire pads. They clean well and no thermal or contaminates issues.

Definitely be careful with abrasives, the tips are coated to hold solder, once that's damaged, no amount of prep will save it.

And as Agedhorse mentioned, they are a consumable. From the sound of it, your due.

 

[6thplanet]

Oh yeah, there's no lead fumes when soldering with lead based solder. An iron isn't getting anywhere near hot enough to vaporize lead or tin for that matter. Still not good to breathe the flux smoke, so yeah, ventilation is good.

 

[Deloofs]

Soldering update: I put on a fresh tip and it was a breeze yes I cleaned and tinned it throughout and when I was done. I have a Weller WE1010 iron and it’s hard to find tips for. Most stores don’t stock them. I can order online but I’m sick of constantly waiting for parts to deliver. I have a Microcenter nearby which has a pretty awesome DIY electronics parts selection. I need to see if an aftermarket tip will fit. I wish this stuff was easier to find locally.

 

[agedhorse]

Stick with the correct tip.

 

[beans-on-toast]

Soldering update: I put on a fresh tip and it was a breeze yes I cleaned and tinned it throughout and when I was done. I have a Weller WE1010 iron and it’s hard to find tips for. Most stores don’t stock them. I can order online but I’m sick of constantly waiting for parts to deliver. I have a Microcenter nearby which has a pretty awesome DIY electronics parts selection. I need to see if an aftermarket tip will fit. I wish this stuff was easier to find locally.

That’s a good soldering iron. Tip sets are available at Home Depot of all places. Several models use these tips. Make sure it is a genuine Weller part.

https://www.homedepot.com/s/weller%201010%20tips?NCNI-5

 

[Deloofs]

That’s a good soldering iron. Tip sets are available at Home Depot of all places. Several models use these tips. Make sure it is a genuine Weller part.

https://www.homedepot.com/s/weller%201010%20tips?NCNI-5

My local HD just doesn't stock them. I'll just order them preemptively.

 

[Stylee Mousse]

See! Now you are better at soldering!

My turn to learn some mortise and tenon joinery…

 

[Deloofs]

Today I'm thinking about wiring and cable management for the rack case. The rack case is 4U so at most I could have four units needing power. This leaves me with up to four power cables, up to three interconnect cables, and the speaker cable. Max current should be 16a (technically my current amp can pull 16.5 but I'm not sure I'll be using this amp for long but maybe I should just size for 20a) I'm not really worried about the interconnect cables since they'll stay inside but I'd like to have just one power cable and one speaker cable. Here's what I'm thinking:

1. Install 4U rack rails on the back of the case
2. Install 2U blank panel on bottom
3. Install 2U perforated panel on top OR
4. Install 1U perforated panel and 1U shallow drawer for cable storage
5. Install one Neutrik PowerCon and one 4-pole Neutrik Speakon into back panel
   1. Hard-wire power amp outputs to Speakon
6. Install min 20a 5-pole terminal strip to inside of back panel
   1. Hard-wire all components to terminal strip
   2. Hard-wire terminal strip to PowerCon
7. Install ground screw
   1. Hard-wire all grounds to ground screw
   2. Hard-wire ground screw to PowerCon

Is this advisable? Can the ground screw be accessible from the outside of the back panel or should I stick it inside?

 

[agedhorse]

Your amp won't draw anywhere neat that much unless you do something really stupid. There might be some inrush issues so you don't want to use any power conditioner with this amp (it doesn't need it anyway)

Just use a commercial rated rack mount power strip, and don't use the master switch for the power amp. Will work fine, be convenient and safer than your alternatives.

 

[Deloofs]

That sounds much easier. Maybe something like a Furman D10-PFP power distributor.

 

[agedhorse]

That sounds much easier. Maybe something like a Furman D10-PFP power distributor.

That should be fine. Even though there's no safety agency mark on the images of the product, according to Furman, all of their power distribution products are listed to one of 4 applicable UL standards.

Note that I don't see this model on their website, which is odd.

OSHA-Certified Power Management Products | UL & CSA Safety Standards

Explore OSHA-compliant power management products certified by UL and CSA. Ensure workplace safety with NRTL-tested surge suppressors and power taps.

furmanpower.com

 

[S-Bigbottom]

Note that I don't see this model on their website, which is odd.

Just a standard 10 outlet rack mount power distributor sold with the brand PF Power on it. It is a Nice Brand product from Furman or Panamax (Nice) depending on where you find it.
Sweet water kind of calls it a Furman, Panamax has it officially listed on their site.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/D10PFP--furman-d10-pfp-power-distributor

10 Outlet Distribution Rack Strip | D10-PFP | Panamax

10 Outlet Distribution Rack Strip D10-PFP model is a rack mountable power distributor designed to keep your equipment safe from all surges. Get it today!

panamax.com

Invalid Link Removed

 

[agedhorse]

That’s weird, I can’t find any safety certifications for that under the Panamax brand.

This is a question I would ask the dealer, there are too many companies (or names) under that umbrella to know what’s what.

 

[Deloofs]

I installed the speakers and almost all the hardware (just missing front corner guards and grille) and fired it up. The performance is very extreme. The power is eye watering. The bass response is tectonic. I connected my pedalboard with the KMA Tyler, compressor on the low side, and distortion on the high side. The tone is planetary in its heaviness and brutality. Speaker hardware’s claim of this being an “arena-capable cabinet” is not exaggerated. It shakes my entire house. I haven’t turned it up past halfway and I’m terrified to do so. This rig is diabolical.

 

[Deloofs]

I turned it up one notch past half way and the lights dimmed. It’s to powerful even with the limiters set. The cooling fan is as loud as my microwave. I need a HPF asap to protect the woofers. This thing is a threat to the power grid.

 

[eaglemachine]

I installed the speakers and almost all the hardware (just missing front corner guards and grille) and fired it up. The performance is very extreme. The power is eye watering. The bass response is tectonic. I connected my pedalboard with the KMA Tyler, compressor on the low side, and distortion on the high side. The tone is planetary in its heaviness and brutality. Speaker hardware’s claim of this being an “arena-capable cabinet” is not exaggerated. It shakes my entire house. I haven’t turned it up past halfway and I’m terrified to do so. This rig is diabolical.

View attachment 7341932

That looks great!

 

[Stylee Mousse]

Very cool! Remember the knob positions do not always represent “half”.

A high output bass through pedals and with eq boosts could easily drive a signal hot enough to break things.

I see you have the macro tech’s input attenuators WFO.

So as you said, time to lower the limiters or otherwise gain stage down to settings less likely to burn yer new speakers!

 

[Deloofs]

Very cool! Remember the knob positions do not always represent “half”.

A high output bass through pedals and with eq boosts could easily drive a signal hot enough to break things.

I see you have the macro tech’s input attenuators WFO.

So as you said, time to lower the limiters or otherwise gain stage down to settings less likely to burn yer new speakers!

I have the channel 1 limiter set to 900w and the channel 2 limiter set to 200w so I hope they’re safe thermally but I think the woofers need a steep HPF to protect from over excursion. I was looking at a 36db/oct fixed “infrasonic filter” kit seemingly based on an Elliot Sound Products design but I was going to use different capacitors to increase the corner frequency from 25hz to 40hz. I’m hoping that with the limiters and filter in place it will keep things within safe parameters.

Do you have any other suggestions? I’ll probably use my Crown Power Base 2 amp in the future. The MA36x12 is just too heavy. I’m honestly liable to injure myself moving it.

 

[agedhorse]

There’s no need for 36dB/octave.

 

[Redbrangus]

The MA36x12 is just too heavy

This. Even in the PA world, where folks are more accepting of heavy racks, the MA-series amps were remarkable for their 'affinity for the center of the earth.' However, the Powerbase Crowns are a significant step down -- I'd suggest buying a newer (but still used) Class-D amp with onboard processing, so you can still biamp your monster rig.